I'd start by saying that I've only wheeled/driven Toyota's since I was legal. Most of what I hear which is purely talk and rumor is about the unreliability and outrageous cost of ownership of the Land Rover brand. However if this were so true I'd assume they'd be out of business by now. I have absolutely no opinion of the vehicle and that is why I'm seeking educated advice.

I recently sold my last 4runner which was pretty bad *** and I miss it already for what I knew was a high resale value. I wanted to use that cash as capital to buy a shuttle bus for business purposes rather than take out a loan. In this economy the less the overhead the better.

I manage about 300 acres of my own land and I need another truck to get me in and out of the woods a few times a month and around town when I need it. My budget is pretty low and I can't find a remotely decent toyota for less than 2k and it damned sure won't have ac in it or have fair road manners. I noticed the resale on the Series 1 Disco falls right into my category. I'd like to know opinions of real owners on the following..

1. Cost of parts, I'm used to working on Toyota's and Samurai's, I'm expecting it to be a little more. Obviously like any vehicle if you don't keep up the maintenance then your asking for it.

2. Do I need a specialized mechanic for the 1st gen's from what I've read its a buick motor? Forgive me if this is false again that's why I ask.

I found a running and promised daily driver worthy 99 disco with a 2 inch lift and brand new tires on it for $2500. Its body is not perfect from the trails but I'm not expecting it to be. It comes with a 96 disco with a blown head gasket for parts that will roll onto a trailer. My thoughts were to pick any parts I may need from the donor ( tie rods, window motors etc.) and then either part it out or sell it for scrap. It would be nice if I could end up with about 1500 maybe less in the rover.

Thank You

 

Just make sure the 99 is a series 1 and not a series 2. You can check the VIN number. the D1 will be saljy and the d2 is salty... notice the d1 is a "J" not a "T". The parts between the 2 don't swap for the most part...

I've nocked my head around 3 of these now. They can be a pain in the butt, but worth it. Running right, they are comfortable, can pretty much go anywhere and do anything you ask them to. If your a DIY'er parts can be found reasonable, with a little searching online. Almost no parts will be available from your local parts stores without ordering them, and then your going to pay premium.

There is a wealth of information and a large group of people that have first hand knowledge of these trucks and are kind enough to share. So, for the most part just about anything can be figured out on your own.

Your correct about the "Buick" engine. the 4.0 was based off the 215. But there are differences, design changes etc... Some research with show you that.

For a 1500-2000k truck you really can't go to wrong. running they are worth that all day long even with a few bumps and scrapes. Watch out for rust... take a philips with you and actually pull up the carpets, in the rear and by the doors in the front, make sure the truck wasn't leaking water and collecting it in the floorpans and eating out the truck.

Personal opinion, but thats a death certificate to any car. better to spend the money on cancer free and put extra toward actual mechanics.

Unrunning the trucks can still bring up to a grand depending on condition. I bought my current for 96 for 1000 bucks dead and left sitting (abandoned) in a parking lot for 8 months. But it's got an almost perfect body, no rust and perfect interior. There are real deals out there if you look for them.

Little things can and WILL drive you nuts at times... I personally hate the engine management system. If any of the many sensors fail, so does your truck. Some of those sensors are cheap and easy to fix, a few require access to a "Testbook" which is Land Rovers shop computer, (See Dealer) or LR specialty shop.

Check the CEL. If the trucks tossing any codes related to the o2 sensors, etc... that get expensive fast. Your going to spend 1000 bucks on new o2's and cats, y pipe, etc quickly. knowing this you can seriously drive down purchase price of the truck, cause chances are it the reason the guys selling it in the first place, just not telling you up front.

All discos seem to suffer the same issues with Valley pan gaskets and Head Gaskets, well, any gasket for that matter...

All can be done by yourself if your handy. I'm not, and I was still able to do the Valley Pan myself in about 4 hours. (30 bucks in parts and gasket sealer) versus the 700 quote from a mechanic. Head Gasket, yours leaks... mine leaks, they all leak and need to be replaced. Guys here have great step by step writeups on how to do it yourself. I believe your looking at around 225 or so in parts. and a weekend to get it done. But, I have not personally done one yet (soon to change).

The trucks are very easy to work on. Everything for the most part is accessible. you can comfortably crawl under them, even stock, and work on them. Struts, ball joints etc are dirt cheap. and easy to replace yourself. Basic tools will get 99% of the job done. (I've only ever had to get a specialty tool once)

Keep in mind that all this is from a regular guy that knew nothing about them when I got my first one, and has no formal training in auto repair period. I basically could change my own oil when I started down the road with these trucks.

 

Thank you very much for your input it was actually pretty informative. I hate sensors and computers on 4x4's but we all know why the factory really puts those on in the first place. I'll make sure to check for rust.

 

yes also if you don't already have one you may want to get a pretty good basic understanding of electronics, because these trucks have alot of them and they seem to act strangely in Rovers.

 

as a previous 4runner owner, I have to say land rovers are easier to work on.

I too hate the ems.

When I owned a 4runner my headgaskets went. I looked and looked and finally found one thread of a guy doing his, but it wasn't very clear and it didn't work in the end. I had never opened an engine so it was like magic to me. I didn't understand it. Then I bought my discovery and changed the head gaskets.. Simple..

When I owned my 4runner I went to replace my rear bearings.. Good GOD. It cost me 800$ because NOBODY had the right tools to remove the retaining rings. And to remove them you pretty much had to destroy the ones that were on the axle so you had to buy new retaining rings, bearings and abs rings.

with my experience working on land rovers is 1000X easier because it has ALL been done before many times.

But when it comes to ecu's I hate them

 

The original Land Rover Series trucks were purpose build, their purpose was to be a farm tractor as well as a do anything truck with the idea that they will break down and that the repairs will need to be made where ever they happen to break down.
So up until the Discovery Series II (DII) they were meant to be off road trucks with luxury added as a after thought.
If you want ease of repairs a DI is THE way to go, wheel bearings are simple, the bearings can be had at NAPA and cost $15 each.
The transfer case has a inspection plate so you can see if it is destroyed without removing it from the truck.
The diffs can be replaced just by jacking the truck up and getting the wheels off the ground.
The rod bearings can be replaced with the engine still in the truck.
Head gaskets too.
The ZF (a heavy equipment transmission company) transmission is all but bullet proof.
The GEMS (general engine management system) has default settings for everything, as long as you have spark and fuel it will run.
Again, purpose built, and its purpose is to get you anywhere you want.
Crank sensor fails...still runs. Runs like crap, but it runs.
TPS fails...runs.
Idle air control valve fails...runs.
Fuel pump fails...wont run.
Cam sensor fails...still gets you home.
The DI radiator is a heavy duty 3 core radiator.
The DI also has a oil cooler.
Get the ECU wet, remove it from the fender, open it, drain the water, dry it, put it back, start the truck and go home.
These things are pretty much indestructible.
But keep in mind that you MUST use premium fuel, they are not built for speed or fuel economy either.


http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...7597067634512#

 

thank you also
Roverchris ( I repair small electronics for a living, gps units, smart phones, Mac Computers etc., does this count?)
SpencerFitch ( I know exactly what you mean about tools and lack of online tear down manuals or tutorials.)
Spike555 ( It sounds like your saying the series 2 on is where they got cutesy and made everything that went wrong a trip to the dealership. So I want the series 1 only is this correct?)

 

yep, as long as you have a DMM and know how to use it you will be just fine!

 

The P-38 Range Rover is when they started trying to make a profit, then the DII followed.
While they are both nice capable trucks they were meant to be mall crawlers more than expedition trucks.
Thats why they came with 18" rims, Harmon Kardon stereo's and auto HVAC systems.
A mall crawler that will take you to the top of a mountain so you can pick your own coffee beans.

 

Fun Videos to watch. Always amazes me what these trucks can do... stock