...and with street tires too.

 

Guys this thread died for a bit because the one I was looking at was sold. I decided to be patient and hopefully it worked out. I found this on about an hour and a half away. She said the breaking system would shutter sometimes but not often and the abs light would come on at the same time. She also said it need additional break fluid added once a month. I assumed from my back ground that the seals on the master cylinder are done for. Worse case scenario I figure a sho[ will charge me 1200 to do this and give it a look over while its there. She said she stopped driving it 2 weeks ago when her daughters bf boght her a new car. Said the interior is perfect aside from the drivers seat indented from being sat in but no rips or tears which is rare. I offered to come get it for 1200 and she said yes so I'm on the way down to get it. I figured the parts alone were worth what I paid for it, hell the damned roof rack is worth 200. Heres the link I'm pretty excited.
Heres the link to the truck

 

Roof rack is worth more than 200$!!

 

The brake problem (other than the leak) is a simple 5 min fix.
Do this before you drive it home.
Open the hood, on the passenger fender is a fuse box, open it, find the ABS pump fuse, remove it.
Close fuse box, close hood.
Problem solved.

 

Well I got it and all was as she said the motor was probably the best sounding motor I've ever heard over 100,000 miles. No knocks, no ticks or hesitation. It sounds alot like my buddy's completely restored wagoneer. I did hear something but it sounds like a small leak on the exhaust manifold gasket is all. Spike555 I didn't get your message until I drove it home almost 100 miles and I spent less than a 1/4 of a tank mind you cruising 70mph. This is the smoothest truck I've ever driven again its like the wagoneer, plently of power but not quick, very smooth. Let me know if I should pull that fuse asap and I will before driving any more. Problems are as follows.
1. The shutter in the breaks only happens when turning the wheel while breaking. You must be turning while breaking or it won't happen. Otherwise it breaks fine in fact she said she'd get me the dates and what exactly was fixed but the breaks were recently done. Also, no ABs light to be found unless that's the same as the Anti Lock Breaks light which is always on.
2. The "service engine" light is on.
3. The "Anti Lock Break" light is on.
4. Only when I'm cruising over 50 and I quickly let off the gas the motor sort of "jumps back " I guess is the right way to explain it. If I ease off the gas it won't happen or if I let off quickly while traveling under 50 it won't happen.
6. The cruise control doesn't work but that's likely a fuse.
7. The drivers seat is in terrible shape. Theres no stuffing or springs where you put your butt. So you basically are sitting on the floor.
8. Headliner sagging all over but no sun roofs so no leaky leaky.
9. The power steering isn't to helpful in fact if I make a real turn it feels non existent but that might be the way these are. I don't care I'll get some Popeye forearms.
Over all I'm really impresse with how the truck handles and drives like a tank.

 

In the tech section there is a "how to" on how to find out the ABS fault.
Do that, then pull the under hood fuse until you can fix the ABS.
The "Anti Lock" light on the dash is the ABS warning light, there is a fault, but you already knew that.
If it is the "RED" Service Engine light over on www.discoweb.org there is a write up on how to reset that, it is a emissions service reminder.
If it is the "AMBER" check engine light then there is a trouble code for the engine.
Read all of the stickys ontop of the DI page, the cruise issue is a leaking vacuum line.
As for the power steering, check the belt tension as well as change the power steering fluid, it uses Dexron III in the power steering system.

 

thanks man it looks like I'm going to have a nice little sunday, gonna work on the rover maybe go to home depot. I don't know if we'll have enough time.

 

1. Pull ABS fuse... Free.
2. Take it to autozone have the codes downloaded. Free.
3. See #1
4. See #2
5. You skipped 5.
6. Cruise is most likely vacuum. You have to turn on the cruise first, center dash, near you right leg, switch looks like a brindge or something... turn it on, if it lights, it's not your fuse.. once on you can set it. But vacuum leaks are very common. Simple fix. couple bucks of vacuum line.
7. Find a rover at the u pull and save... seats are cheap, or find someone with a crapped out rover...free.
8. Again, easy fix, take down the headliner... remove matirial and foam backing (hard brush, power sprayer etc... ) paint it, or have it recovered. Around me local guy will do them for 100 bucks and they look new when he's done.
9. Power steering should be just that... power steering.. I can tun my wheels with my pinky. If not, check the fluid. Is it whining or anything? if not, possible blown power steering pump... gets expensive fast. Can retrofit a chevy s-10 pump if you reuse the pully off the rover pump, direct fit, new about 80 bucks. Search threads here, guy gives actual part numbers etc for the chevy pump.

Drive the hell out of it. Have fun with it. Change the oil, every 3k seriously do it.. ONLY run 92+ octane fuel. Just do it. Sure the truck will run on lower... but your doing more harm than good... real harm.

Expect the seals to go. All the seals. seals suck on the rover. Head gaskets, valley pans, front and rear mains you name it, garbage. Plenty of guides on how to do all of them yourself.

Things I would do to it just for the sake of doing them...

Grease everything that's grease able. Check the fuel filler hose and the overflow hose... they tend to get old and will leak...pour out gas. (happened on all 3 of my rovers) Do a transmission service... filter and fluid. Not hard, but time consuming. Find and fix that header leak... again, gaskets are cheap. check every single vacuum line on the truck. Replace all of them. If they are not bad now, they will be soon... save yourself a headache and be proactive. lines cheap. change the fuel filter... simple job, takes 10 minutes, cheap... why not do it.

Download the RAVE manual. It's our bible.

Sell me the rack, give you your 200 bucks...

 

The previous owner said she'd always put 87 gas in it. I filled it with premium on the ride home though. Since she's done that should I assume this motor is all gunked up? Is there something I should do now to clean this out? Also oil changes, I can also assume she's not been using synthetic if I start now will it do more harm than good. Thanks for the information I'll start referring to the stickies for the more commonly asked stuff from here on out. Thank you all again for referring me in the right directions.

Spike555
Why am I pulling the fuse for the abs light until its fixed. Does that simply disengage the light or is it for a mechanical preservation reason.

 

It's for a save your life cause you like having brakes and feel the need to be able to actually stop without going though a stop sign and plowing into that passing semi...

see,

https://landroverforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=36456

and

http://car-and-safety.com/land-rover...c-antilock.htm

For starters....