Loud Noise when I change from parking to any other gear
#22
#24
Did you order the same rear shaft with the rotoflex or did you consider buying the one without the rotoflex with a new third member?
Do you have any idea how long it has been driven with the shaft out? I would be afraid of extensive damage to the transfer case. You could go ahead and drain hthe transfer case, remove the inspection plate and take a good look to see if any internal damage is present before you refill it. I think that may be wise.
I realize the market conditions are a lot different when you are on an island like that.
Hopefully you have not already damaged the transfer case. Good Luck with your new love.
Do you have any idea how long it has been driven with the shaft out? I would be afraid of extensive damage to the transfer case. You could go ahead and drain hthe transfer case, remove the inspection plate and take a good look to see if any internal damage is present before you refill it. I think that may be wise.
I realize the market conditions are a lot different when you are on an island like that.
Hopefully you have not already damaged the transfer case. Good Luck with your new love.
#25
Finally a decent post by Lee except for the part "on an island like that" but it's all good. lol!! To tell you the truth I don't know for how long it has been driving without the shaft. I going to go ahead and do what you are advicing me to do and I'll post some images of the process. Thanks Lee
#26
Others are buying them with 130,000 miles for $1500.
Would someone pay $4000 for my truck? Probably not.
Its only worth what some one is willing to pay, no matter what it is.
$3000 for your area might be a steal, I dont know.
Prices vary from area to area.
#27
To the OP - Your 96 had a rotofelx "rubber thingy" on the rear prop shaft. You can order a kit with a new shaft to change it to all u-joints. The mid 97 to 99 had these, and I would suggest you look into it if you are ordering a new shaft. You will have to replace the pinion output in the rear diff, but you won't have the ailments of the rotoflex. Not much more work and you only have to grease it.
Also, you have been driving a front wheel drive. The front diff is getting some serious slap in it. The fronts normally develop more wear, and yours has been worsened by no rear shaft. I would suggest you not drive it much until you get a shaft on the rear. When you do get the shaft on, you will need to unlock your t-case. It should be back and to the right for normal driving. If you put a shaft on the rear and drive it locked, it will bind up your running gear and break something.
Also, you have been driving a front wheel drive. The front diff is getting some serious slap in it. The fronts normally develop more wear, and yours has been worsened by no rear shaft. I would suggest you not drive it much until you get a shaft on the rear. When you do get the shaft on, you will need to unlock your t-case. It should be back and to the right for normal driving. If you put a shaft on the rear and drive it locked, it will bind up your running gear and break something.
#28
I think you misinterpretted my Island Comment. I was not knocking your homeland, just saying that when you are somewhat isolated like ANY island is, you pay a lot more for most items due to the extra shipping of everything that is not native to the area.
I was stationed on the island of Key West for the last two years of my tourof service in the US Navy. So I am familar with isolation that imposes, even though it is connected to the US mainland by the Overseas Highway, all the way to where A1A runs into the ocean.
I was curious if you were aware of the driveline problems with your "new" Discovery prior to buying it or did you "Discover" it afterwards? That would definitely affect the purchase price.
And like OKDISCO pointed out above, running it like that is most likely detrimental to the transfer case. I seriously doubt if just replacing the driveshaft and rotoflex is going to fully resolve your driveline issues.
Hopefully for you, you will be able to fix it yourself reasonably.
I was stationed on the island of Key West for the last two years of my tourof service in the US Navy. So I am familar with isolation that imposes, even though it is connected to the US mainland by the Overseas Highway, all the way to where A1A runs into the ocean.
I was curious if you were aware of the driveline problems with your "new" Discovery prior to buying it or did you "Discover" it afterwards? That would definitely affect the purchase price.
And like OKDISCO pointed out above, running it like that is most likely detrimental to the transfer case. I seriously doubt if just replacing the driveshaft and rotoflex is going to fully resolve your driveline issues.
Hopefully for you, you will be able to fix it yourself reasonably.
#29
No worries Lee. Hopefully I'll get the shaft and the rubber thing, and pay a mechanic to install because to tell you the truth I don't know anything about mechanics. I was not aware of the missing shaft untill a mechanic went down there. Another question Lee after I fix everything and the truck is running smoothly I want to replace the headlights and rear lights with the Disco II headlights and rear lights, can this be done?
#30
You sure can swap the headlights and taillights. I am just yanking your chain man. They really can't be swapped without some serious fabricating. If you can't handle a simple prop shaft replacement then the headlight swap is way out of your league. Of course anything is possible with the right amount of money. The DII front clip is different than the DI and the taillights are positioned differently on the DII. Of course I haven't done measurements so the DII taillights might fit, don't know about wiring though.
Last edited by discomedic4; 10-11-2010 at 08:56 PM.