Making progress on my 98 Disco!
if you have fluid "spewing" from your steering box or pump it is not going to get fixed with a heavier fluid or some stop leak.
A FEW Rover owners have completely lost their ride to a power steering leak or oil lines which led to fire and a total loss.
If you have the skills and tools then rebuild that steering box with a rebuild kit... as for the pump buy a new one or at least a rebuilt unit.
Not being a scare monger here.... if that fluid sprays onto a hot catalytic Converter you'll be shopping for a new truck (at best).
Steering and brakes are not areas where you want to go cheap... IMO.
A FEW Rover owners have completely lost their ride to a power steering leak or oil lines which led to fire and a total loss.
If you have the skills and tools then rebuild that steering box with a rebuild kit... as for the pump buy a new one or at least a rebuilt unit.
Not being a scare monger here.... if that fluid sprays onto a hot catalytic Converter you'll be shopping for a new truck (at best).
Steering and brakes are not areas where you want to go cheap... IMO.
Last edited by Cosmic88; Apr 25, 2011 at 07:45 PM.
if you have fluid "spewing" from your steering box or pump it is not going to get fixed with a heavier fluid or some stop leak.
A FEW Rover owners have completely lost their ride to a power steering leak or oil lines which led to fire and a total loss.
If you have the skills and tools then rebuild that steering box with a rebuild kit... as for the pump buy a new one or at least a rebuilt unit.
Not being a scare monger here.... if that fluid sprays onto a hot catalytic Converter you'll be shopping for a new truck (at best).
Steering and brakes are not areas where you want to go cheap... IMO.
A FEW Rover owners have completely lost their ride to a power steering leak or oil lines which led to fire and a total loss.
If you have the skills and tools then rebuild that steering box with a rebuild kit... as for the pump buy a new one or at least a rebuilt unit.
Not being a scare monger here.... if that fluid sprays onto a hot catalytic Converter you'll be shopping for a new truck (at best).
Steering and brakes are not areas where you want to go cheap... IMO.
Any idea where I can find a rebuld kit for the power steering box?
I have had good results using a ATF with stop leak built in, I just added with the ATF with stop leak until it stopped.
Took about 1/2 a qt, my leak was not to bad though.
I need to just replace the power steering lines altogether as thats where my leak was.
Took about 1/2 a qt, my leak was not to bad though.
I need to just replace the power steering lines altogether as thats where my leak was.
hmm Spike I have around $45 to play with until this Thursday. Should i just try ATF? or should I go straight for the rebiuld kit for the power steering gearbox? Cosmic88 had a good point about the fluid hitting the cat and catching on fire! I'm defiinitly concerned. I found a new rebuild kit for $40 on ebay. Details about the leak: The gearbox only leaks while the engine is running. Even with the engine running the resovir still holds fluid. Once you start up the engine and let the engine idle for a good 3-5 minutes then a noticable amount of PS fluid seaps from right below the gearbox. The fluid hits part of the engine and other componets- a small amount of smoke does appear after about 3 minutes of ideiling and Im 50% sure the smoke is a result of leaking PS fluid being burned as it dripps onto something else.
The power steering will not leak onto the exhaust unless you are moving, then the wind blows it back.
The ATF with stop leak is about $5 per qt, personally I would start there, if nothing else you are out $5.
But do not expect a miracle and think the leak will stop as soon as you pour in the stop leak.
If it drips a steady drip with the engine running then it might be to bad of a leak for the stop leak to work.
Since the truck is not road ready as of yet it might be a good idea to just go ahead and reseal the steering box.
The ATF with stop leak is about $5 per qt, personally I would start there, if nothing else you are out $5.
But do not expect a miracle and think the leak will stop as soon as you pour in the stop leak.
If it drips a steady drip with the engine running then it might be to bad of a leak for the stop leak to work.
Since the truck is not road ready as of yet it might be a good idea to just go ahead and reseal the steering box.
as i said before the fluid seaps out fluidly. Alittle more than a constant drip. So perhaps your right. You would not happen to have any directions of scematics for the power steering box internal componets would you?
That sounds like a pretty good leak. But spike (like usual) is right. Throw some ATF with stop leak in and pray. Worst case scenario it costs you 5-10$ and makes a mess. Beats the he'll out of yanking the box when you don't have too. Good luck. You've got smart guys in your corner.
Spike is correct in that the ATF (should be used) in the PS system will not drip directly onto the exhaust or the Cats. However, in my experience, leaks in a pressurized system rarely (never) decrease in severity.
IF it gets any worse and you try to drive around spraying fluid could contact the manifold or worse the drivers side cat.
Since the Flash point of ATF's is roughly about 400 - 500*F on average and the normal operating temp of a Cat is about 1,200* to 1,600*F.... well hopefully you see the possible volitile outcome here...
IF it gets any worse and you try to drive around spraying fluid could contact the manifold or worse the drivers side cat.
Since the Flash point of ATF's is roughly about 400 - 500*F on average and the normal operating temp of a Cat is about 1,200* to 1,600*F.... well hopefully you see the possible volitile outcome here...


