my d1's build thread
#1
my d1's build thread
if there is a better place for this tell me.
well i bit the bullet and took over my roomates disco s1, prior discussion can be seen here:
https://landroverforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=36001
alright up until now this was posted on a local forum thats why the dates are posted and somethings on this post may appear obvious
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alrighty heres my project its a 1998 land rover discovery S1, it has A LOT of issues but its still running for the most part. it has no paint as youll be able to see by the pictures, this is all i have right now.
i drove it while my Subaru was getting its clutch replaced and i fell in love with it, ill be updating this regularly as it will be taking over some daily duty
--------------------------------
Update 12/22: changed the oil and its miss went completely away, turns out it had roughly doubled the amount of it needed to have and started clogging the cylinders, and the bad side the entire interior lighting quit out on the way home.we are tackling the interior body panels which should do the interior up nicely, the roof liner has been replaced with a rhino lined roof liner instead of the original tan cloth.
Next mechanical issue is the transfer case for some reason its really clunking, near impossible to engage its locked center differntial , hopefully a fluid change will fix that too
-------------------------------------
update 12/23 12/24
most of this was done yesterday. the rear tail light ground chafed off and shorted out my tail, apparently as a safety feature the dash lights are wired to shut off if one of the outer lights fail, forcing the owner to take it in and get it fixed. kind of cool but ultimately annoying. fixed theim rear fog lights, im gonna attempt to tackle the interior panels like i said. pics to be soon
-----------------------------------------
update as of 1/2
we are pretty consistently running now, all outer lights work and about 1/3 of the interior lights have been fixed.
powersteering has been fixed or at least working again. it has a small leak i havent tracked down, i fear its in the rack somewhere. also since the cold snap the oil leak has almost entirely quit.
it will turn into my daily once the radio gets fixed
well i bit the bullet and took over my roomates disco s1, prior discussion can be seen here:
https://landroverforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=36001
alright up until now this was posted on a local forum thats why the dates are posted and somethings on this post may appear obvious
------------------------------------------------------
alrighty heres my project its a 1998 land rover discovery S1, it has A LOT of issues but its still running for the most part. it has no paint as youll be able to see by the pictures, this is all i have right now.
i drove it while my Subaru was getting its clutch replaced and i fell in love with it, ill be updating this regularly as it will be taking over some daily duty
--------------------------------
Update 12/22: changed the oil and its miss went completely away, turns out it had roughly doubled the amount of it needed to have and started clogging the cylinders, and the bad side the entire interior lighting quit out on the way home.we are tackling the interior body panels which should do the interior up nicely, the roof liner has been replaced with a rhino lined roof liner instead of the original tan cloth.
Next mechanical issue is the transfer case for some reason its really clunking, near impossible to engage its locked center differntial , hopefully a fluid change will fix that too
-------------------------------------
update 12/23 12/24
most of this was done yesterday. the rear tail light ground chafed off and shorted out my tail, apparently as a safety feature the dash lights are wired to shut off if one of the outer lights fail, forcing the owner to take it in and get it fixed. kind of cool but ultimately annoying. fixed theim rear fog lights, im gonna attempt to tackle the interior panels like i said. pics to be soon
-----------------------------------------
update as of 1/2
we are pretty consistently running now, all outer lights work and about 1/3 of the interior lights have been fixed.
powersteering has been fixed or at least working again. it has a small leak i havent tracked down, i fear its in the rack somewhere. also since the cold snap the oil leak has almost entirely quit.
it will turn into my daily once the radio gets fixed
#3
#4
#6
update 1/3
-- I've tracked down the powersteering leak to the 2 lines leading and returning to the rack from the powersteering pump its hard to see what is leaking and whats leaking from something else.
they dont look like they are on tight enough but I cant get them any tighter. I also learned that my roomate replaced the ps pump when he had it and in fact didnt tighten the lines down enough so the leak has gotten a lot smaller but I'm still loosing fluid at the lines
-- u-joints are next, when I get gear and transmission fluid I'll inspect the drivetrain closer
-- I've tracked down the powersteering leak to the 2 lines leading and returning to the rack from the powersteering pump its hard to see what is leaking and whats leaking from something else.
they dont look like they are on tight enough but I cant get them any tighter. I also learned that my roomate replaced the ps pump when he had it and in fact didnt tighten the lines down enough so the leak has gotten a lot smaller but I'm still loosing fluid at the lines
-- u-joints are next, when I get gear and transmission fluid I'll inspect the drivetrain closer
#8
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Pittsburgh PA suburbs.
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The CDL not engaging is usually the linkage itself is frozen place due to corrosion and/or non-use. The correct way to fix this is to totally remove the center console to gain access to this area. You then drill out the factory rivets holder thge rubber gaiter in place and set it aside to re-install with pop-rivets. At this point you be lookin down into the complete linkages that shift from unlocked to locked as well as the High/Low shift linkages.
I have included a link to RN's page that shows all the parts and pieces. http://www.roversnorth.com/store/c-3...s-linkage.aspx
Side to side movement of the shift lever is supposed to rotate Item 35 to change from unlocked to locked. I had to replace most of the little clips and pins due to extreme corrosion, the major pieces were still good. I also had to replace the piece with the internal splines at the top due to excessiver wear. The CDL switch (item 39) was also bad on mine. After replacing all these and lubricating everything real good, it now shifts " Smooth as Butter".
The first time moving item 35 required a lot of force with a socket on an extension on a speed handle over the nut at the top of item 35 in order to move it. I was actually attempting to unbolt it and the shift lever moved into the locked position.
Regular shifting of the mechansim will help keep it in working order. If it is never used it will freeze up from non-use..
Also spray it down real good with PB Blaster to help free it up. If you get in there and start trying to force it to move, you can do a lot of damage and as you see, there are lots of parts and most are not cheap. So exercise finesse, not brute force.
I have included a link to RN's page that shows all the parts and pieces. http://www.roversnorth.com/store/c-3...s-linkage.aspx
Side to side movement of the shift lever is supposed to rotate Item 35 to change from unlocked to locked. I had to replace most of the little clips and pins due to extreme corrosion, the major pieces were still good. I also had to replace the piece with the internal splines at the top due to excessiver wear. The CDL switch (item 39) was also bad on mine. After replacing all these and lubricating everything real good, it now shifts " Smooth as Butter".
The first time moving item 35 required a lot of force with a socket on an extension on a speed handle over the nut at the top of item 35 in order to move it. I was actually attempting to unbolt it and the shift lever moved into the locked position.
Regular shifting of the mechansim will help keep it in working order. If it is never used it will freeze up from non-use..
Also spray it down real good with PB Blaster to help free it up. If you get in there and start trying to force it to move, you can do a lot of damage and as you see, there are lots of parts and most are not cheap. So exercise finesse, not brute force.
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