how about free board in a first rate private beach apartment. either that or its your step by step for us.

MMO in yesterday afternoon. Right Stuff on the shelf. How about sunroof and alpine window gaskets?

 

Got the MMO in so I might as well switch to the 20w50.

To conventional like the Valvoline or synthetic like the Royal Purple?

I can drop and re-gasket the pan and put a new washer on that filter and stop those leaks. I'll probably have to redo it all again if we do the engine work.

For the oil pan, I'm supposed to use the Right Stuff Gasket Maker instead of the manufactured one. I don't use both. Right?

 

Did the intake cleaning improve your Disco's responsiveness?

Slang,

You mentioned an oil leak at the oil filter? One thing I have seen and had happen as well, is the gasket from the previous filter can end up stuck to the mounting position. I have learned after it happening to me to always look at the mounting area and make sure it is good before installing the new filter. And apply a layer of oil to the gasket on the new filter before spinning it on. I make sure the filter spins on freely to ensure it is not cross threaded and then snug it down being careful to seat it but not try to get it "gorilla tight".

I also try to keep a supply of the copper crush rings on hand for the drain bolts. I have seen a few people get that way to tight as well. You sort of have to develop a feel for how tight is tight enough. A correct size 6 point socket seated squarely always works much better than trying to use a lot of force with a poorly fitting adjustable that tends to slip and bust your hand or knuckles.

I especially like that Mann (Purolator) Filter because of the built in nut on the bottom for using a wrench. The K&N also has a nut shape BUT it is painted with such a slick finish that it does not work as well as the one on the Mann Filter.

I was not aware of the Mann brandname until I saw some of their massive rigs on some UTube Vids crossing the desert with ease. Those are awesome trucks.

And keep that apartment available for my long term visit.

Oh yeah, for a great oil I like the Castrol GTX 20W50, my old 283 loved that stuff.

 

danny did you ever get those pics?

 

Whatever works for you. I am unemployed right now, hence the reason I have been able to tackle this during the week.

 

i used both on mine. just go easy with the right stuff.

makes it easier to break apart later when the time comes.

did a similar procedure on the RR oil pan - thin layer of gasket maker on top and bottom of the gasket.

 

bumping an old post as this is the same problem I am having. Had major ticking when i bought this 98 D1 a few weeks ago, at all temps.

Changed all rockers, as some were badly damaged from excessive wear.

Now only ticks when fully warm. Will try the rotella and report, but am very curious if anyone else found the real cause of this.

 

Have you checked for tightness of the bolts at the exhaust y-pipe/flange. A leak there will give a ticking sound.

 

Have not done that yet. Will do this afternoon as well as changing to a thicker oil.

Have only 5w30 in it right now + some Seafoam, so it is fairly thin.

The tick is inconsistent, but does sound like its from the top end. Sounds like it goes away (or at least fades) with RPM increase, but only under some conditions.

 

Used 15w40 Mobil Delvac and it "cured" the ticking noise right up. Like i said, this 98 D1 had 4 beyond worn rockers (to the point of damage) that were causing major ticking at all temps/RPM's.

Once those were fixed I'm thinking that allowed me to hear this tick when warm. Guessing possible lifter issues from the damaged rockers having excessive play (for up to 4 years I'm told by the oil change station that used to serviced it before I got it).

I wont be tearing this down to find out. The tick is so faint now that you have to really be listing for it, and I can live with that.

+1 for 15w40 oil.