Ive had my '98 DI for 12 years now, its right at 145,000 miles. A couple months ago me and the wife were moving into our new apartment and we were able to get one load over with the rover until it started having issues. When i went to start it up it was idling very rough and as i went down the road it was losing power and eventually cut off as soon as i pulled off to the side. Then a week later, i thought the problem had passed and took it to campus to pick the wife and had it cut off again. This time though, it had run for around 30 minutes and when it started dieing i had to lay into the gas to keep it going and make it to the next red light, where i pulled up on the curb and waited on the tow truck... again.
Anyways, my first thought was fuel pump, but for about once a day i could get it to crank and it would run for 10 minutes then cut off and not start again, but sounded like it wanted to.
Then i read the codes and found i had a P0420, so i cut the cats off, still nothing.
Then i started poking around more and found i had a spring on the throttle body that had broken.

So, long story short. If someone could post a picture(s) of where all the springs and the throttle body go and hook into place that would be great. The spring that is broken on mine is the one closest to the thottle body.

Also if someone could post a pic of the proper vacuum hose layout that would be great. Mine comes out of the throttle body and then has a T fitting, i figured the brake booster line fed into that and then the other vacuum line laying in my engine bay connected to it too, but that random hose is not connected on the other end, but i can see the vacuum pump thing under the head lights in the bumper area.

Any help and input is very welcome

 

That "T" fitting is for the cruise control. One end goes to the vacuum dump switch on the brake pedal. The other goes to the vacuum pump.

 

i was re-reading my post just now and noticed that it says:

"If someone could post a picture(s) of where all the springs and the throttle body go and hook into place that would be great"

it should say i need pics of where the springs go on the throttle body.. etc, i know where the throttle body is, dont worry. I need to learn to proof read.

 

Have you been doing your own work on your Disco?

If you haven't already done it, download the RAVE manuals. Lots of good useful info there on all the systems.

Must be nice being the original owner. I envy you.

 

A big vacuum leak will cause rough running.

You need to check fuel PSI while running and then again once it dies.
You can rent a fuel PSI tester, hook it up, start the truck, watch the gauge (32-36psi @idle) and then see what happens when the engine dies.

 

ive been doing most the work and i have the rave manuals. However, last year I had the rover towed back up home while i went to the Czech republic for christmas. When i came back the guy (that my mom chose to have work on the car...) said he had fixed the breaks and "redid" the timing. He pretty much ruined my car, the break pads exploded two weeks later, causing one of the rear calipers to crack, and the thing still ran like ***.
So yes, i am the only one aloud to touch the car, except for when im lazy and get Valvoline to change my oil.

Oh yeah, we bought the thing with like 25,000 miles, so im not really the original owner. Land Rover said the original owners didnt like the gas mileage

**Someone still needs to get a pick of those springs on the throttle body up, ive been looking everywhere and cant find anything, i have a very strong feeling this is why the rover wont run. Im about 99.9% sure its not fuel pump related because it will run for almost 10 minutes or until you start giving it gas then it will idle high and shut off. One of those springs has to have something to do with it.

 

I dont think this sounds like a vacuum or throttle spring problem..

your throttle has three springs. One on each side of the cable and then one at the bottom thats super tiny [I know helpful right?]

My truck ran fine with one spring, the gas pedal just felt lighter. It was after I did a headgasket and I though somehow I unlocked magical horsepower cause my truck felt soo much faster...... The gas pedal was lighter..


I its a mirror image of the other side so if you have one side the other is just like it but on the other side. But agian this or the CC vacuum hose has nothing to do with it running like this..

Holding down the gas to keep it running.... HMMM

I dont want to make you jump to any conclusions. But its either 1 of 3 but most likely 2 things..

Air
Fuel
Spark

Mostly air and fuel. All I can think of is, its not getting fuel or spark because obviously when you push the gas pedal the butter fly valve opens.

BUT the truck may be getting false readings from the TPS.

I KNOW it seems like Im TPS ECU MAN, but its just a theory.. Check it out.

Your TPS is telling messing up telling the ECU the throttle is closed, there for cutting fuel to idle BUT your throttle is OPEN so your giving it wayy to much air [possible?]

Dont run out and buy stuff based on my theory PLEASE.

But can an engine get too much air, to fuel therefor run super lean and like crap?

 

I would say start by the cheapest; check for vacuum leaks, check fuel pressure, tune up if the last one was done a long time ago (at least plugs and fuel filter), clean throttle body.

If the fuel pressure is good it might be the crank sensor? It stops after the engine has warmed up. Is it running fine when you first start it when it's cold?

 

And find out what he messed with last. Not sure how you "re-do" the timing its computer controlled. He may have swapped around the plug wires. Check your firing order. Make sure the right wires are on the right plugs. There's pictures in the RAVE manual. Thats just labor and no parts.