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  #31  
Old 05-11-2011, 02:33 PM
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245/75s need the camel cut, so anything that tall or taller will. Look at my camel cut thread, I have pics showing where they rub.
 
  #32  
Old 05-11-2011, 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by tweakrover
245/75s need the camel cut, so anything that wide or wider will. Look at my camel cut thread, I have pics showing where they rub.
Fixed it for you. Although I disagree with your original premise. (I've never tried 245s but my 265s barely ever rub)
 

Last edited by Mountain Goat; 05-11-2011 at 02:56 PM.
  #33  
Old 05-11-2011, 03:03 PM
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Tweak, I saw your pics and stand corrected. I thought you meant a full camel cut. That is the exact same spot I have occasionally snagged with my 265s. Surprised that it would catch on a 245. I have thought of cutting that part back a few inches and making a rocker panel to conceal the cut part, but have still rarely has issues.

Is your sway bar off? That may be the difference. Although I thought AKdisco said he can stuff his 245s without contact, and his swaybar is even off.
 

Last edited by Mountain Goat; 05-11-2011 at 03:22 PM.
  #34  
Old 05-11-2011, 03:17 PM
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Default This is dialogue I was looking for...

GOAT, to answer your question why A/T and not M/T...well, as much as I'd like to go off-road once a week, I just don't, and maybe never will. (I just bit my tongue and threw-up...I will, I will!)

I guess I'm worried about road noise for some reason, and I don't know why. That's why I wanted to hear opinions and be asked questions, so I can really think it over for my situation. I will be driving an extra 40 miles a week or so since i'll be working out of an office a couple days a week soon. But i'm not sure that should/would keep me from an M/T either.

It's still my daily driver, so I use it for errands and misc. stuff. But I am really considering M/T's now. Anyone got any feedback about M/T's on road and wearing quickly?
 
  #35  
Old 05-11-2011, 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Mountain Goat
Speaking of which, why do you need A/T tires? Why not muds? A/Ts do fine everywhere but mud, but with your open diffs an aggressive tread is sometimes better. My last trip, which was meant as a basic trail ride, I ended up going through 2' deep water, mud, slush, and snow, and I am sure glad I had my mud terrains on or I wouldn't have made it through. In fact I have practically never had an off-road situation that made me wish I didn't have muds (except maybe when they start throwing gravel and my truck, lol). It sounds to me like you are only doing 20/miles per week on pavement, and are concerned about off-road performance, why limit yourself to A/T? A 31" mud will outperform a 32" A/T in terms of traction, and you can quit worrying about rubbing. I love the look of 32s, but unless you are doing rocks/deep ruts differential clearance may be adequate with 31s.
There is a huge difference in the off road capabilities in A/T and M/T tread design. That is why they sell both. Depending on what you plan on being your primary off-road course will dictate which tread design will best suit you. For me, I would need an A/T. A M/T would be a waste of tire for the logging roads I go on(no mud at all). But for AKDisco, he has lots of mud available to him, a M/T would be better IF he used the Disco in the mud. But if he only used it for established logging roads and rocks, an A/T might be better. Just my $.0036564. FWIW, I spent a few years in the tire industry and have a brother that does tire wholesaling.(not that it makes me an expert, cause it doesn't)
 
  #36  
Old 05-11-2011, 05:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Chris-bob
There is a huge difference in the off road capabilities in A/T and M/T tread design. That is why they sell both. Depending on what you plan on being your primary off-road course will dictate which tread design will best suit you. For me, I would need an A/T. A M/T would be a waste of tire for the logging roads I go on(no mud at all). But for AKDisco, he has lots of mud available to him, a M/T would be better IF he used the Disco in the mud. But if he only used it for established logging roads and rocks, an A/T might be better. Just my $.0036564. FWIW, I spent a few years in the tire industry and have a brother that does tire wholesaling.(not that it makes me an expert, cause it doesn't)
Agreed, and I think A/Ts are fine for many conditions, just not all. Seems to me that M/Ts come closer to being true all-terrains, no holds barred. On my last rig ('89 F150) I put 33" ATs because I looked at it as purely a desert truck. However my experience since says that out of mud, snow, dirt, gravel, trails, water, grass, rocks, ice, and dry pavement, the only two where I noticed a disadvantage of the M/Ts (on the Disco) was ice and dry pavement (I'll report on sand after this weekend, haha).

Even as such, the Rover handles nearly as well on ice - and we have a lot of it here - with M/Ts as my Sentra does with studded snow tires, and pavement is a necessary evil. In the rest of the situations they actually seem to have an advantage. They keep me moving forward nearly 100% of the time, whereas I felt wheelspin all the time with the A/Ts. The only way I would go back to A/Ts is if I had to routinely drive this rig on the highway for hours at a time, but still wanted better off-road traction than street tires.

To me, it seems they sell A/Ts because they are cheaper than M/Ts, make less road noise, and have slightly longer tread-life.

Addressing those concerns, I would say 1) you get what you pay for, 2) have them balanced by a good shop, rotate them every 5k miles or less, and I can hardly hear it with my windows closed. I've never been in a Rover without muds, but the wind noise is far more noticeable to me than road noise. I could still have a comfortable phone conversation at 70-80 MPH if I ever drove it that fast, which I rarely do, and 3) expect around 30 to 40k miles out of a set. Or sell them after 20k for at least half of what you paid, and keep a deep tread.

Just my two bits. A/Ts on a Rover will still get you darn near anywhere, and there's certainly a large degree of preference here as well. I'm just trying to milk the most traction out of my open diffs that I can. I think M/Ts don't need to be sacrosanct though, I'd say everyone should try them at least once.
 

Last edited by Mountain Goat; 05-12-2011 at 12:35 AM.
  #37  
Old 05-11-2011, 05:35 PM
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^ All of that is personal experience, I'm no expert either. I feel the M/Ts help, so my next set will also be M/Ts as well.
 
  #38  
Old 05-11-2011, 07:05 PM
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I said what I meant its the height and barely tubing is rubbing. Sway bars disconnected would help the tires tuck and droop increasing the problem
 
  #39  
Old 05-11-2011, 07:14 PM
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BFG MT KM2 are pretty quiet on pavement. I only notice noise when I am slowing to a stop. I drove them from Denver CO to Moab UT and they worked great. Remember to get your rig aligned at least once per year to keep tire wear down. Small investment compared to buying sets of MT's
 
  #40  
Old 05-11-2011, 07:53 PM
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Originally Posted by tweakrover
I said what I meant its the height and barely tubing is rubbing. Sway bars disconnected would help the tires tuck and droop increasing the problem
As I said, I stand corrected. I was only giving you a hard time. I am hoping my 235s will rub less, either way I will correct the problem (via minor trimming) at some point.

Oh, I initially though my 265s did not rub, because I made it through some big rocks without snagging, but after some faster/more aggressive trail riding I learned better. I am still relatively new the this rig, lol.
 

Last edited by Mountain Goat; 05-11-2011 at 08:13 PM.


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