New '96 Disco Owner - Possible Bearing Issue?
Hey guys,
I am the new and proud owner of a '96 Disco. Just picked it up today. One owner with 133K miles and runs very well. The only glaring issue at this time is what appears to be the driver's side wheel bearing. There is a noticeable squeaking noise that increases in frequency with speed and does not go away when the brakes are applied. Am I correct in assuming that it is the wheel bearing?
If this is, indeed, the case, I am most likely going to look at replacing the rotor, pads, bearing and seals on both sides. The rears will be fully replaced shortly after. Anything that I am leaving out?
Appreciate your input/advice.
- Shawn
I am the new and proud owner of a '96 Disco. Just picked it up today. One owner with 133K miles and runs very well. The only glaring issue at this time is what appears to be the driver's side wheel bearing. There is a noticeable squeaking noise that increases in frequency with speed and does not go away when the brakes are applied. Am I correct in assuming that it is the wheel bearing?
If this is, indeed, the case, I am most likely going to look at replacing the rotor, pads, bearing and seals on both sides. The rears will be fully replaced shortly after. Anything that I am leaving out?
Appreciate your input/advice.
- Shawn
https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...section-32402/ will list a few new-2-me things to do for your Disco, and high miles repair items. Replace rotor is good. Turn rotors not good, heavy truck will warp shaved down rotors.
The RAVE free download is a good idea, to have a full set of all tech manuals for the vehicle.
Might want to look at service to the swivels at the same time (CV joints for each front wheel). And flush and replace brake system fluid.
Also time to rebuild both drive shafts if the universals don't have zerk fittings.
Number one thing - be sure cooling system is in order, radiator clean front and back, fan clutch not freewheeling when warm, and don't ever let that temp guage get high. Typical running area is 8:00 - 9:00. This is not a vehicle that you can run at 3/4 on the temp guage.
Change oil early and often (5000 miles), a good oil is Shell Rotella 15W40, and being a diesel rated oil it does a great job of cleaning.
And with something making noise like that, open it up and check before driving anymore. No point making things worse.
You are going to have a great and greasy good time working on this machine.
The RAVE free download is a good idea, to have a full set of all tech manuals for the vehicle.
Might want to look at service to the swivels at the same time (CV joints for each front wheel). And flush and replace brake system fluid.
Also time to rebuild both drive shafts if the universals don't have zerk fittings.
Number one thing - be sure cooling system is in order, radiator clean front and back, fan clutch not freewheeling when warm, and don't ever let that temp guage get high. Typical running area is 8:00 - 9:00. This is not a vehicle that you can run at 3/4 on the temp guage.
Change oil early and often (5000 miles), a good oil is Shell Rotella 15W40, and being a diesel rated oil it does a great job of cleaning.
And with something making noise like that, open it up and check before driving anymore. No point making things worse.
You are going to have a great and greasy good time working on this machine.
Thanks for the info. A couple of follow up questions/comments:
1. Agreed on the high miler repair items. I plan on doing everything on that list.
2. Do you happen to have a link to a DYI that outlines how to rebuild the drive shafts if you do not have zerk fittings? In addition, a list of parts that I would need to accomplish this?
3. Brake fluid will be flushed ASAP. Current fluid is a tad on the brown side. Is there a particular order in which calipers needs to be bled? I assume, based on the location of the master cylinder, that it would be RR, RL, FR, FL. Just want to make sure.
4. Shell Rotella, huh? My immediate assumption was to use Mobile 1 or Castrol Syntec synthetic oil with a high grade filter (Bosch, K&N). Any issues with using that over the Shell oil?
Again, I appreciate all of your input. This is a huge help
1. Agreed on the high miler repair items. I plan on doing everything on that list.
2. Do you happen to have a link to a DYI that outlines how to rebuild the drive shafts if you do not have zerk fittings? In addition, a list of parts that I would need to accomplish this?
3. Brake fluid will be flushed ASAP. Current fluid is a tad on the brown side. Is there a particular order in which calipers needs to be bled? I assume, based on the location of the master cylinder, that it would be RR, RL, FR, FL. Just want to make sure.
4. Shell Rotella, huh? My immediate assumption was to use Mobile 1 or Castrol Syntec synthetic oil with a high grade filter (Bosch, K&N). Any issues with using that over the Shell oil?
Again, I appreciate all of your input. This is a huge help
The tech section of the Disco 1 part of the forum has a write up with photos of rebuild of shafts, applies to both D1 and D2, the D2 is slightly more compex. I believe the universals are on the order of $20 or so each.
Your order of flush should be fine.
If vehicle did not use syn before, you may loosen up more than you bargain for. Shell also makes a Rotella that is syn. But the point I am getting at is cleaning. The diesel rated oils have more cleaning power than conventional oils, and help slowly clean out the gunk a previous owner (PO) may have left behind with infrequent changes. There is a great hue and cry about what is the very best oil, best beer, best college football quarterback, .... but the main thing is to change early and often. 40 weight will take you to the 55 degree C temp rating for operation, 30 weight does not, and is too thin for these truck engines. Mobile 1 filters are very good. You will find lots of opinions on this.
Your order of flush should be fine.
If vehicle did not use syn before, you may loosen up more than you bargain for. Shell also makes a Rotella that is syn. But the point I am getting at is cleaning. The diesel rated oils have more cleaning power than conventional oils, and help slowly clean out the gunk a previous owner (PO) may have left behind with infrequent changes. There is a great hue and cry about what is the very best oil, best beer, best college football quarterback, .... but the main thing is to change early and often. 40 weight will take you to the 55 degree C temp rating for operation, 30 weight does not, and is too thin for these truck engines. Mobile 1 filters are very good. You will find lots of opinions on this.
Yeah do not go 5w or anything with 30 weight....unless you live in Alaska...but stay with diesel oil cheap good insurance...or kendall 10w40 or castrol HM 10w40....but honestly...rotella t is everywhere...easy to find
Hub bearings don't usually squeal on a D1. If they are lacking lubrication it's usually more of deeper rumble sound.
A u-joint will squeal when it's dry. Well, at least until it starts to vibrate then disintegrates.
A u-joint will squeal when it's dry. Well, at least until it starts to vibrate then disintegrates.
Shawn, good luck with the project. Might also consider looking at my major service list at the top of the D1 section, making sure to do all that is listed and up-grade the qualitys of oils you use from what Rover recommended.
Excellent info, guys. I really appreciate it. I checked the dust shield on the driver's side front and everything looks okay in that regard. Sucks, because I was hoping I had an easy fix!
My next step is to complete all of the recommended service items in the tech section. I am hoping that if I replace all of the fluids (diff, t-case, swivel ball housings, trans, engine oil) I might see/hear some improvement in the sound. It definitely can be isolated to the front, driver's side though. Maybe the CV is suspect? The squeaking noise does change in tone and frequency when turning the wheel from side to side, while driving. Although, my past experience with bad CV joints usually results in a clicking or clunking noise that you can feel through the stearing wheel, especially when turning. Not the case with the Disco.
Thanks for the additional info on oil choices. Looks like I will go with the Shell 15w40 for now and see how that works.
My next step is to complete all of the recommended service items in the tech section. I am hoping that if I replace all of the fluids (diff, t-case, swivel ball housings, trans, engine oil) I might see/hear some improvement in the sound. It definitely can be isolated to the front, driver's side though. Maybe the CV is suspect? The squeaking noise does change in tone and frequency when turning the wheel from side to side, while driving. Although, my past experience with bad CV joints usually results in a clicking or clunking noise that you can feel through the stearing wheel, especially when turning. Not the case with the Disco.
Thanks for the additional info on oil choices. Looks like I will go with the Shell 15w40 for now and see how that works.


