Hi All,

So I got a 96 discovery 1 back in February and I've been slowly repairing neglected items from the previous owner/s. Mostly small stuff, missing 4wd shifter, rear windows not working, jackass not refilling the transfer box when he replaced it, etc. All with success by the way in no small thanks to this forum.
My latest task is to discover all the oil leaks...this has been complicated by the fact that the jack stored in the engine compartment leaked oil all over the place. I only learned this when I naively found it empty and dutifully refilled it. I've spent the last 3 days spraying degreaser from underneath. Spray, scrub with grill brush, rinse, repeat.
Long story short it looks like it is leaking from behind the pulley? Is this an easily accessible seal or am I looking at a longer project?
I have the RAVE BTW but I also use a mac so there are issues there.

It's not a bad leak but enough to be annoying.
The truck has about 146k on it, runs fine, some alternator noise (the insulation was resting on the alternator vents before I tore it out and replaced with some scrap dynamat I acquired, I think it got mildly cooked) check engine light is intermittent.

Thanks in advance.

I'm no professional wrench BTW, but I grew up working on air cooled VW's so I am familiar with the basics.

 

probably needs a head gasket and front timing cover repair. you will need a quite a few tools to do the job.

 

If you are talking about the crank shaft pulley leaking then it is the front crank seal that is leaking.
Oil Seal Engine Front | Land Rover Engine Parts at RoverParts.com

If you want to replace the front cover gasket too then you might want to think about getting this.
Timing Chain Kit | Land Rover Engine Parts at RoverParts.com

 

If you want a temporary fix to stop the front crank seal leak while you look for others, there have been users on this forum that put RTV around the crank, let it cure, then started it up. That makes a hairline cut in the RTV, and stops or reduces the leak so you can look at other issues. Another owner suggested using an old serpantine belt, loop around the crank pulley, run the rest of the belt through a pipe, squeeze off the other end with vise grips. You now have a "necktie" that you can prop against the frame, allowing you (with a cheater bar) to remove the 185 pound torqued nut on the crank pulley. The seal is about $3.

 

Check the valve covers and the valley pan. They can leak too, but are not nearly as difficult to replace as head gaskets and front cover gasket.

 

Sounds like we bought our from the same person....lol...

Good luck, looks like I might need to the crankseal also. Not a hard job, just tedious one....
In regards to the timing chain, if it is not damaged and all the teeth(es) look good, no need to replace it. But, it is cheap insurance to replace it though when in doubt.......I normally only replace it if I use a new cam or add serious power adders.......

 

I moved my jack to the cargo area.

I had a leak that took forever to find. It was a pinhole in the Tranny cooler line that sprayed into the wheel well right under the PS reservoir. For the longest I was looking for a PD leak. Then I was underneath the beast with the engine running and actually saw the stream of fluid spraying from the hose.

Degreade it really good with something like Mean Green and rags, that will help show a recent leakage trail more clearly.

 

Thank you everyone for the helpful posts. I'll update after I complete the degreasing and inspection of exactly where the leak is from.
I think I can rule out the valve covers, the oil concentration seems to be at/behind the crank pulley. Is there a more official way of removing the pulley besides the spare belt technique outlined above? I know for my v-dub there is a torque multiplier device to help with removal of the flywheel. Anyone heard of a similar device for a crank pulley?
Thanks again.

 

The RAVE documents (as well as other mechanics) also use a method where access is gained to the starter and ring gear, so that something can be jammed in to prevent the crankshaft from rotating. Depends on how many other problems you want to "Discover" - (more leaks, cracked insulation and connectors, etc.). A Rover owner never runs out of things to do - just motivation and moola.

 

You talking about removing the crank pulley nut?
With the truck sitting on the ground and fuel pump fuse pulled and fuel system depressurized put your breaker bar with socket on the nut, have the breaker bar resting on the floor, tap the key once, the nut will now be loose.