Looking at the RAVE, the non-NAS does not have a Rheostat. I used the connecter of the old one to create a bypass. Just sent the ebay retailer that sold the other one to me. It is under a 30day warranty. At least I have the lights again for the mean time.

 

12 volts is OK to cluster and radio lights. But if rheostat is burning out, might be time for an amp check in that area with meter. You can reduce amp drain by replacing lamps that you can reach with leds from places like superbrightleds.com; after all this dash work you can skip the yoga classes....

 

I'm done with the yoga positions for now......I do plan for the LED swap over, but that is way down the road. Still going though the "sheit list". The house gets the next round of LED lights first....$$$$.

The company that sent last Rheostat, will send me another one, no questions asked....phew...!

 

If it burned out that quickly, I would spend some time looking for a possible short or partial short somewhere that is the potential root cause of the problem. If such does exist, you will merely continue to burn out rheostats and possibly burnout even more.

You are only addressing the obvious symptom and not the true root cause. Or buy a can of Problem-B-Gone Spray and douse it all down real good so it fixes itself.

after all this dash work you can skip the yoga classes....
Wait until you have a significant problem that requires you to crawl underneath quite often and you can lose several poundss and a few inches in your waistline like I did when I replaced my fuel lines from the tank to the engine bay.

 

To recall, the original check of the Rheostat did conclude the original problem when the circuit was jumped. Then I installed the new (old) one. It didn't work right away, but after taking apart the cluster, looking for a fault and plugging everything back in, it worked. I simply attributed to a bad connection at a connection point, since it was getting voltage.....oh, also cleaned PCB ground for the heck of it.

And actually, the cluster light went out again right after I jumped the rear windows. I could have caused the issue during the jump.....

Yes Danny, the ultimate goal is continue to look for the issue. It was my assumption that there MIGHT be a short in the system. But, I also must account for the replacement unit being used. From reading my first post on this subject, I mapped out a plan for the involved components. I checked every conceivable possibility but the power junction, which did check out good. The non-NAS model does not have this option, so, it's Euro now....

 

Two thoughts

- perhaps it would be wise to make the jumper out of a single fuse holder, so that just in case, you won't draw too much. Many vehicles are damaged or totaled each year by mods or additions to wiring. And an electrical issue can happen when you are not in the truck, but it is inside your garage.

- I have recently changed my swivel grease, oil and filter change, removed front prop shaft, removed starter, replaced starter, cleaned negative bonding strap to chassis, replaced fuel filter, and re-sealed - refilled transfer case. Under the shade tree, in the dirt, to simulate third world conditions. The cleanest part is my arm pits. And during "close quarter" combat with the bottom side of the "leak mobile" I bet I rubbed off 10 pounds of oily grime.

 

My thought also. The circuit is fused from the box @ 10amps, switched powered. So with the light in the off position, no current. The jumper I made used the stock connector from my first Rheostat, Bridged the power wires, removed the ground, plugged it in. Instant, non-NAS Disco.

 

And actually, the cluster light went out again right after I jumped the rear windows. I could have caused the issue during the jump.....

So you did some type of modification to jumper the rear windows?

I do recall a thread a while back regarding the rear window "Bypass Kit" that was the start of a chain of electrical problems for one of the forum members, but I do not recall him reporting back as to his final resolution as is typical of so many who submit a thread but never report back the final conclusion.

Just remember when you go altering electrical system you are inviting potential new problems as you alter the intended function of the original design.

From my experience in Aerospace Quality and Reliability Engineering, we had a saying that the last "quick fix" is often the beginning of your next "New Problem".

All I am suggesting is that you exercise good judgement when you start making alterations to existing hardware that you can inadvertently create an entire series of new problems.

Just park it outside away from your home, other automobiles and various other things you care about just in case it does decide to burst into flames in the middle of the night. But it is yours, so make yourself happy.

 

will do...I will park it in my neighbors drive way....lol....

 

And invite yourself over for s'mores!