Gas cap installed (yeah I know) and pass side mirror has arrived. Still waiting for the fuel pump. Maybe Monday... Had this for almost a full week and it still hasn't started yet. Darn parts!!

 

Fuel pump arrived yesterday, and now it is raining (no garage or cover to work under) so maybe tomorrow??

Stopped rainning for a bit, double checked the fuel pump voltage and it is almost 10V at the pump connector. Cracked the fuel lines and they look like they will come off OK. No pressure at the rail but a lot of gas running back through the lines. Normal when changing a pump?? I plan on a new fuel filter too.

 

WOW. I just bought the exact same color D1, with the same build date, with the same issue!

that is just uncanny..

I just skipped a few steps in diagnostics, pull the inspection cover for the fuel pump, and check to see that power was getting to the pump. It was, so pump came out, hooked power to pump itself, nothing. installed new pump, works great.

my wife is from st cloud, where are you?

 

Scary!! I was raised in Bloomington, now living in Red Wing. Have some relatives in St Cloud.

 

Yep, the fuel pumps do wear out. Mine lasted about 12 years and 120K miles. Fortunately, they are a piece of cake to replace (and cheap as dirt). When the fuel pump goes on my Jag gas tank removal is required. Not a pretty picture.

 

speaking of jags, I believe this is the same pump as the one in my old 92 jag.

 

OK.. Installed the new pump and ... nothing.!! I measured between the white/violet wire and ground wire (black) and when the key is first turned on, I get 9.8v. After a bit, it goes away. I put 12vdc straight to the old pump and it fires right up. I'm guessing I didn't need a pump. I pressed on the switch under the hood but it doesn't even move. It has 2 wires going to it. Can I bypass this to test? Fuses all check good. Electrical diagram hints at a satellite fuse(?)

Also talks about an imobilization (with and without) I only have a copied key, no key fob with the alarm buttons. No flashing red light on the dash.

Any help would be appreciated.

 

Skip the immobilizing for now. Focus on the pump motor circuit..... Your gonna get spun around like a top when you start guessing. Seen it a million times.

You have voltage to the pump, you need to find what's causing it to be lower than 12v.

Starting from the fuse you have the Multi-Function Relay, the Inertia Fuel Cut-Off and the Fuel Pump motor. Connectors and ground lugs is your next step.

So you know your getting voltage through all the devices but it's 2.2v low. What causes the restriction of flow? Corrosion and dirty contacts.

So your mission is to find the Multi-Function Unit, remove the cover and check the contacts for garbage.....common. Next is to start from the fuel pump connector and look for brown/melted plastic connectors. Corrosion. You start from the fuel pump connector and then work up to the next which is usually the culprit if the pump connector looks good. Next one up is not hard to find, follow the white/purple.

On the opposite side of the in-flow is the grounds. E400 is on your LH side of the cargo door opening, check it for corrosion.....common.

The other side of the diagram is just the relay coil side, not a player in voltage unless there's no power going to the relay coil.

If you want to check the Inertia switch you just do a continuity across it's pins. You can jump it out. Inertial switch is on the firewall, passenger side near the washer fluid bottle. Squarish with a rubber cover over reset button.

If your talking about the hood switch for the alarm it's on the right side inner fender. That is normally open with hood down, disconnect it and the alarm senses the hood is closed.

 

ihscouts:

you are dead on!! before I got back to read your post, I threw myself into this and started at the multi-function relay and figured out I did not have 12v there. so I backtracked to fuses under the hood, OK there. Looking at the wiring diagrams I noticed the fuel pump relay draws it's power from the Satellite fuse block #1 fuse #3. after a few more false starts checking out the inertia cut-off, I went back to the satellite fuse box inside the truck. It then dawned on me that there was NO FUSE in slot #3. (It couldn't be that easy could it??) Of course I am out of fuses so had to run down to the parts store... on returning, I installed the missing fuse and... no pump sound.. Guess I better plug the pump in and tried it again. Now I have fuel pressure!! I then proceeded to cycle the ignition a few times to build up some pressure and the truck started right up!!!

Let it run awhile and put some tools away and it kept running, checked for fuel leaks, All is good so I drove around the block. No problems. well except for a CEL , Brake and anti lock lights being on but those will be next.

The scary part is I bought this thing for $700 and all that was wrong was a missing fuse.

Thanks for all the help. I now understand what is going on in the circuit and if there is any problems, I can jump right in.

Anybody need a fuel pump?? guess I got a spare.

 

What I would do, as a wise man, would be to install the new pump and save the original for a spare. Put your bucks to good use. With these Rovers and parts not readily available at the corner dime store you'll want to build a spares bin for things like; alternator, starter, fuel pump, fan clutch, brake calipers, u-joints, power steering boxes/pumps, relays (there's a ton of em), switches, MAF's and so on.

As far as the alarm goes......you set your alarm by locking the drivers door. It's the only door with a switch to the alarm that activates/deactivates it. The fob is a pita, batteries always die young and then you have to sync them with the alarm unit.

The Rave is damn simple, it's honestly one of the best all around "guides" I've ever used that is civilian derived.