1317 ignore for now, unhook the ABS fuse if you like ...

The rest are *PROBABLY* all related as I found out the 117x series are all related to fuel pressure but mixed with the 0300/0307 in my case lead to a bad speed sensor as well..

Try unplugging the VSS just for grins, a bad signal from that will affect a bunch of fuel related calculations in the ECU, once its running check the OBD2 speed vs GPS speed and see if the ecu is reading much higher than it should.

 

Installed the cleaned dry MFU and it started right up. Think I'll drive it a bit and see what codes pop up. Motor runs good so not sure there can be much wrong with it.


Time to play with putting a radio in it. P.O. ripped the radio out, there is a big amp under the pass seat and a big cable from there up to the radio area with a bunch of RCA plugs on it. I don't need anything that fancy, just a couple of speakers and an antenna.

 

Theres a good guide on the forum here with info on wiring an aftermarket straight to the speakers via the amp out wires..

Check again, most of these have a tiny amp on the wall under the pass side dash, and a CD changer under the pass seat.

 

well, mine has an amp (pioneer) that takes up all the space under the pass seat. I doubt I will be using it.


Just got back from towing the truck home. Ran great about 4-5 miles and then when shut it off at Menards, it went back to the fast clicking near the pass side firewall. If I manually hold in the relay, it tries to open and close rapidly. Disconnecting the inertia switch doesn't change anything so I don't think it is the fuel pump/wires to back end. Gonna have to understand the Multi-function Unit a little better I guess.

 

Been reading a bit about this 'spyder' thing, maybe this is the cause of my problems?? Not sure if I even have one but it does go thru it to the fuel pump...

 

My truck doesn't have a spyder. Took the dash apart just to find that I don't have one. but since it was apart, I straightened up the mess of wiring left from a poor radio installation. not a total waste of time I guess

Problem has now changed to not running the fuel pump when the engine has been run up to temp. If it sits for a few hours, it starts right up ( fuel pump that is) gonna re-check the relay again.

 

After a few more days of digging, I now know where the fuel pump relay is, and I finally figured out that the Inertia Switch plug is what has been causing my problems. I can run the truck for about 20 min, shut it off and wait 5 min, it will not start. No power to the fuel pump.

When I first started working on this, I noticed one side of the inertia switch plug was dark, (discolored) which it turns out that it was making t poor contact. Especially when it got warm under the hood. When I forced a jumper wire in place of the switch, it worked fine. I did the exact same test that had consistently made it fail and it now works fine. Hope that is the end of it!!

 

So i checked the mfr and it clicks when its keyed on, but it seems to be a sealed unit in its wedge shaped cover.
Is that the right one,? If so, how do i get into it ? Fuse under hood seems ok and fuse in drjvers knee bolster is good too.... just nothing in or out of the inertia switch.

 

There is another relay inside the truck, behind the kick panel on the passenger side. You have to remove the panel to get to it. Not the ones behind the glove box...

 

Behind the kick panel on pax side, ok.... are there more than one? If so, which one.is it? Id.go out and check it right now but its raining cats and dogs..... the one day a year this happens in Phoenix...