When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Ran fantastic till one day I turned the key and nothing happened.
I had been having issues with the ignition switch jamming on occasion so I swapped in a new one and all was well
Then all the of the sudden nothing when I twist the key. Assumed the starter had crapped out. Swapped a good starter and still nothing when the key was turned.
I swapped out the electrical portion of the ignition next and it will turn over but after a 3 or so second delay but does not start.
I have determined that there is no signal to the fuel pump and no spark
I have changed
CPS
Fuel Pump as it was noisy previously
Starter
Swapped in 2 different securtiy module / ECM combos that were known good
I have a relay that firing like crazy when the key is on C292 in the attached picture which makes no sense its for a condenser fan I also found what appears to be a broken off wire and a spot that has wire left in the connector on the security module.
The broken off wire is a copper core black and white coated wire with a non copper shielding wire I see no evidence of copper wire in the connector on the module.
Last bit of info I have is the OBD will not connect to either of my code readers
Two things, have you tried swapping the fuse block under the dash? How is the brown wire which goes from the battery to the fuse block under the hood? I've seen those two things completely drive a D1 nuts. The OBD2 port not working = sounds like 12v at the port isn't there. You should always have 12v at the OBD2 port.
I'll do some digging when I can with any more info/ideas.
It has power at the ODB2 port, it will power on the reader but no comms
Hmmmm and that problem is there with all ECU/10AS combo's? My 97 XD did that when I first bought it but the ECU was basically eaten thru with rust. Swapped it out and problem has never come back. Sure sounds like a power related problem. I'll look up the 10AS wiring when I get a chance.
My good friend had crazy no starts, and his truck was a wiring disaster. I probably removed 50ft of "custom" wiring. It got better, but it would still just randomly not start of coarse at the best of times hanging off a cliff off road, severe rain storm, on the way to SCARR/HCRR. Eventually tracked it down to that brown wire going to the fuse block under the hood. It caused 10AS to go completely bonkers (sometimes the light would go nuts, but most of the time no indication from the 10AS). We were messing with the battery one day and when we moved that brown wire that goes to the positive we noticed it acted odd. Found it had corrosion and whenever it vibrated or hit a bump it would just kill power or give very little to the fuse block. Swapped it out and truck never acted up again. We think all the 50ft of wire we removed for their bypasses and fixes were all caused by that brown power wire.....
The fact you stated no fuel or spark triggered an issue that I had. The crankshaft position sensor on mine had its wiring at the pigtail all exposed. I peeled back the outer sheathing and saw there were two wires completely exposed to each other. They caused a short. I got no spark nor fuel because of this. I ended up buying a new pigtail because mine was shot. I covered the two wires and ensured no more shorting. Problem solved for me. It may be something to look at. The crankshaft position sensor is prone to failure because of its continuous exposure to heat.
It is a suggestion to consider. Some of the effects you are having were because of the cause I had with the wiring.
Take two paperclips, stick them inside the wiring plug, use a volt meter and test the current with the ignition key to position 2. You should get about 2 volts running through the wiring. That will ensure that the wiring itself is sending juice to the sensor as well as to the computer.
No start at my wits end mystery no start
