First, let me say that my hat is off to you, okdiscoguy - and I'm not even wearing one. Just freakin awesome.

Disclaimer: This is how it went for me, your results may vary. Be careful please. If you set your truck on fire doing this don't blame me.

So I went out today and gave it a shot. Here are some notes to add for those of you who are NTB (none too bright), like me, mistakes and all. If you know it all already, don't bother reading.

I have a '96 SE7, it is ODBII. So first I found the ODBII connector under the steering column, and located pins 5 and 15, just like the directions said. Make sure you put the clip in the little holes above and below the ODBII contacts. If you use the contacts in the middle of the connector it is very easy to short the wrong pins, or several at once.

I finally found the ABS relay. It is under the cardboard cover in the passenger footwell. You have to remove a 14mm bolt to drop the tray down that holds the relays. The picture in okdiscoguy's post is spot on, it's just confusing if you don't know to drop the tray first. The picture is after you have swung it down on its hinges, kind of like it is a trap door. My relay was bright green.

So I went and jumpered the pins and turned the key to position I as labeled on the ignition switch. Nothing. No lights, no codes, nothing. After a frustrating half hour of trying different things to jumper the pins I mistakenly turned it too far to position "II" and freaked out when all the dash lights came on as I figured I just fried something with the pins jumpered like that.

BUT LO AND BEHOLD my ABS light began flashing! So for mine at least, it has to be on position II, not I as stated in the post. So I counted for a while and then pulled the jumper.

There was no love in mudville, however. I cleared probably 50 codes, all the same one. Yikes.

Remember I said I had a little trouble locating the ABS relay? When I couldn't figure it out at first, I just pulled 'em all. For some strange reason, having all the relays out will not allow you to clear the codes. Very odd. Anyhoo, long - short was I put the relays back (except the ABS relay) and it began to finally allow the codes to be cleared.

A word about putting the relays back. They have a slot that slides on to little metal tabs in the tray to hold them on. It is both easy and very exciting to slide them on the tabs the wrong way. If you miss the slot the tab slides up under the relay and if you are unlucky like me the tab hits a live contact and mayhem of the grandest order will follow as you try to fathom what has just happened in a shower of sparks. Luckily, nothing else seems amiss, so no harm no foul I guess.

I found that you must wait until the actual code is blinking out when you pull the jumper or it will not clear either. There is also no need to cycle to ignition between clearing codes, just wait for it to do its blinking thing and reinsert the jumper for the next code.

When you have cleared the last one, It will only blink long, short, out for 3 seconds, repeat.

Now, the last thing that threw me for a loop was after I got it all buttoned up and started it - FREAKIN ABS LIGHT AGAIN! WHATTT??!!? grrrr......

Unbuttoned, did it again, but no codes left. WTF? I am currently w/o real brakes, so a drive was out of the question. But when I went to move it the 20 ft back to its resting place, as soon as the wheels turned a few revolutions THE LIGHT WENT OUT, and stayed out. Woohoo! Seems it needs a little new input to finally turn the light out.

Fixed! Well, for now, and now I have this cool new tool to help me out. Screw you ABS light!

Most of the codes were odd, a few seemed to point to the front right sensor being weak or having too large an air gap. I'll futz with it in the morning.

Hopefully someone else might be saved some frustration by reading this, in any case I hope it is useful.

Get after those ABS lights!

 

May want to re-post this at the bottom of the ABS thread. Glad you got it going, and I will re-read my post and update. You didn't need to pull any relays and yeah, the light will stay on until you drive... self test every time.