I got a 96 disco with the gems engine. Main seal is leaking oil and i want to replace it. Was wondering if it would be as easy as taking the pulley off the front, or do I need to take the timing cover off and go in through the oil pump. Got 177,000 miles on it and it runs good.

 

To just replace the front crankshaft seal( ERR6490G) you do not have to remove the timing cover. That seal is installed from the front/exterior of the cover not from behind (ie the oil pump). Just remove the pulley/harmonic balancer and remove the seal. Be sure you have a large enough socket/seal driver to avoid hitting the crankshaft end. And remember to lube the seal with a little grease before you drive it in.

If you didn't get a seal yet buy a Corteco (you'll be glad you did) > https://www.lucky8llc.com/products/f...seal-corteco-3

 

thanks for the quick reply. I'll order one from AB its only $10 and give it a go.

 

Is it reasonable to hope that a person doesn't need to pull the radiator off to get the flywheel pulley off? Also, what do you use to remove the seal? A hook of some sort?

 

Remove it like a caveman, with a screw driver. No, you don't need to pull the radiator to get the pulley off.

 

Unless you are going to use an impact wrench (most won't fit between the pulley and the Rad) to remove the pulley bolt, then NO you don't have to remove the radiator. You do want to use a good sized breaker bar (if you are on a budget>) 1/2 in. Drive 25 in. Professional Breaker Bar and a 15/16" socket.

To remove the crankshaft seal a screwdriver works, but a seal puller works far better. You can get one at any Auto Parts Store, HF, etc. and it looks like this > Seal Puller with 2 Tips

The real kick in the ***** about this simple repair is you need to keep the crankshaft from turning when you are removing, and then installing the pulley bolt. You can do this by just removing the oil pan ( NOT THE TIMING COVER!) and using a piece of wood to block the crank. Looks like this (post #6) > https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...acement-47087/

>While the oil pan is off remember to check and clean the oil pick-up screen/tube!

You also need a torque wrench to install the bolt to 200 ft/lbs. (crazy right??). Some guys don't use a torque wrench, but for $60 it's worth doing right. You don't need to get a $600 Snap-on wrench, this will work fine > 1/2 in. Drive Click Torque Wrench (25-250 ft.-lb.) | TEKTON 24340

 

Rather than pulling the oil pan off, has anyone ever used this method (remove bell housing inspection cover and fit a wrench in the slot of the bell housing?


Or is that only available on Disco II's?

 

Yes, that access is on a DI trans. I've seen that video and always thought it was a bad idea. I really do love how the video looks like the beginning of a cheap horror movie!

IMHO if you are trying to torque a crankshaft pulley bolt to 200 ft/lbs by holding onto a bolt torqued for something like 40-50 ft/lbs and you break the flywheel/starter ring bolt.....PAIN. For me it would just be more work and wasted time trying to fix that broken bolt than just dropping the oil pan.

Could it work, maybe... If you want to be first to try it.....Good Luck!

 

Point taken. thanks! So that isn't what that slot is for then???

The one thing about it is that it isn't tightening that ring gear bolt I don't think since the wrench would be held is the same spot and not rotated.

 

From the RAVE manual it says: NOTE: It will be necessary to have an
assistant position a large flat ended
screwdriver between ring gear and adaptor
plate to prevent ring gear rotating.

What's the adapter plate? Anyone have a picture of this?