Hello all,

I have a 2002 Disco II with 130,000 miles.

I'm in the middle of doing the front cover gasket replacement as I have a coolant leak coming from the top drivers side of the front/timing cover.

I have the rave manual and viewed as many threads as I can find regarding this topic. I've looked for videos on the web but have found nothing regarding a 4.0 V8 Land Rover engine still in the truck.

I think I'm at the point where your help is needed. I have the viscus fan off, the oil sump and oil pick-up removed and I'm about to go after the Camshaft Nut/Bolt.

I'm taking it slow, one step at a time and appreciate any information you can give as It's my first time working on the engine.

Step I need your help with:

Seal - Cover - Timing Gears

I don't have tool LRT-12-080 and I'm wondering what's the best way to loosen the bolt with an automatic gearbox? Do I need to leave the Serpentine Belt on to allow tension? Can I step on the breaks and use a pry bar? Or do I need to remove the radiator in order to fit an impact gun on it?

I have read all these methods work, just not sure what works best.

Thanks in advance,

Matt

 

Well, I'm going back out to the garage to see what I can figure out...

 

the timing chain will hold the camshaft in order for you to break the bolts free, now if it is the "crankshaft" bolt; it is easiest to remove befor you that the belt off. But if the belt is off you can fit an impact gun up there by removing just the fan schord.

 

Breaker bar and some way to grab the fly wheel and stop it from turning is the best remedy. If the oil pan is off there should be places to put a block of wood to restrict the motor from turning. Remember there is suppose to be 200 foot pounds of torque on that bolt So it will be tight. Then the harmonic balance should just slip off. Then remove the cover paying attention to which bolts go where(different sizes). If you are going to replace the oil pump REMEMBER TO PRIME the pump before bolting the cover back on. (coat the gears with oil) Also look at the replacement gears and be sure the campfered side of the gear goes towards the cover( beveled side)As for the chain(timing) be sure the chain has the discolored link towards you....I was told that the chain is directional.....so I made sure to check it twice to be sure.

 

Thanks Drowssap,
It's the Crankshaft Bolt I'm trying to loosen and my impact gun does not fit between the radiator and the bolt.

I am planing on replacing the timing chain and gears so it's good to know the timing chain will hold the gears when it's time to loosen the camshaft bolt.

 

Hello Mr Flea1,
I have a breaker bar in the form of a ratchet set and a long pipe, and the oil pan/sump and pickup unit is off the truck. I took a 2x4 and wedged it between the ground and the inside of the engine block and then began to push on the breaker bar. Whalllllah... came off like butter. Thanks for the insight. Not sure why it seemed so difficult before attempting it.

I have the rave and recognize your further instructions. (not to say I'm 100% confident in how to do it all, but that's half the fun of it - I have yet to find the other half of fun...) Your other advice about the gears and the timing chain are new information to me and I'll be sure to pay special attention when replacing them. Now I will go look up Campfered.

 

Now if I had some way to clean the inner workings of the engine... any ideas?

 

Thanks Drowssap,

I tried to fit the impact gun in there... but there was not enough room. The breaker bar and wood jammed in there worked well. And it looks like I'll be able to use the same method for tightening...

 

Cleaning - brake cleaner, or some solvent and a brush. Seafoam. WD 40 in a garden sprayer. Kerosene. Point is, lots of things will clean up the visual area, which may make you feel good, and reduce big pieces to come off and clog screen. But the bearing surfaces are not where you can get at them without taking more things apart. Looks like some varnish buildup from long drain intervals (Previous owner). We did have a recent write up by pedronz, a kiwi (NZ), who replaced his bearings with engine at this point. But he had reason to do it with only 20-25 psi oil pressure at speed.

Nice pix, the one toward flywheel shows the teeth that the starter engages, and the reluctor ring with those milled slots, which the crank position sensor picks up as they fly by.

Running Rotella will help clean up some of that over time. Probably more under the valve covers.

 

Thanks all, I'm just plugging away over here...

Now I'm trying to do steps 8,9 and 10.
8. Disconnect the Lucar from oil pressure switch.
- Located it, just not sure how to get it off.
9. Disconnect the multi-plug from CMP sensor.
- Unsure how to disconnect it.
10. Loosen union and disconnect oil cooler pipe from timing gear cover.
- Is there a oil cooler pipe going to the timing gear cover?

Or it's just late and I need some sleep...