113,000. I only know of it over heating once and blowing the head gasket, hence why I bought it for $500. Also, I didn't over heat it, PO did

 

https://www.uempistons.com/index.php...30a16c7e7e4253

Would need the pin bored for the Rover con rods or can go with aftermarket there too but less than $300 for 8 slugs. Pin offset very close to Rover's. You can see they come in larger diameters for overbore. One thing to mention, sleeves can be had to fit pistons larger than standard 3.7 so no boring machine needed but it's at the liner install expense.

 

Shoooooot, at this point I just need the cheapest way to get this thing running full time. Lol. Thanks for the link. I'll scour their page tomorrow to see what all they have

 

Just an idea I thought I'd share with ya. There are a million ways to skin a skunk and only one stinks. Cheapest is a bore and rings but that's only if the cylinders spec within .010 otherwise it's .020 over, slugs and rings.

 

Haha, I've always liked that phrase. And I agree. Thankfully my wife and I agree that, no matter what, we take the cheapest route that gets the job done right. When I commented earlier I was thinking about the possibility of the cylinders being out of spec. My mind went from over bore pistons to performance upgrade. Haha

 

I will gladly spend your money..... just ask me! I know what you tried to do and I kind of wonder if the shop was paying attention - did they mic the cylinders? When you do a compression test you can also test for how long the cylinder hold the pressure, in your case with as much blow by it's rings for sure but normally your checking valve seating and you can hear when they leak by where they're leaking, intake or exhaust.

 

I didn't have a chance to get over there today and probably won't till the end of the week. However, the questions to ask are:
Were cylinders mic'd?
Was cylinder bored or honed?
Was it within spec?
And what spec was used?

Any others? I wish I had known as much as I do now, when I originally took the block in. It would have helped....

However, I'm trying to figure out how to test it holding compression... Remove the shrader valve on compression gauge or leak down?

 

now that you have a compression test it would be nice to be armed with a leak-down test results also. i believe they can be rented/borrowed from local AP store

 

See how quickly the cylinders leak, use 10 minutes as your benchmark and record the beginning reading and ending reading on all 8. Just gives you an idea.

 

If doing 10 minute tests, I assume I can/am doing this on a cold engine?

I just replaced ask if my cooler pipes yesterday, trying to track down some mystery leaks. I need a go pro down there while driving... Lol

Also, I went to an imports auto shop yesterday to ask about resetting the adaptive values on the ECU. After talking to the technician he came back and said they could do an ECU re learn process for $50-85 depending on how quickly it re learns. Are we talking about the same thing here?