Overheating
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Overlanding
Joined: Jun 2013
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Overheating
So yesterday I had the bright idea to take my truck to the mud bog. I made it through almost everything, but with consequences. I had to push through some thick mud and ride the truck at about 2200 rpms for about 5-10 minutes. My coolant was pouring out and my engine was scolding hot. I put water and new coolant in it but the temperature gauge still is all the way at "H". It's not boiling over anymore and it really isn't that hot when I open the hood. My questions are; have I done any permanent damage to the truck? Is it still okay to drive in it's current state? Where do I go from here? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 16,322
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From: Savannah Georgia
1. Would not drive until repairs are made.
2. Clean out mud and leaves impacted in AC condenser and radiator, pull out rubber strip at top to see muck between them. When cleaned out, should be able to put a light behind fan and looking in from the front grille see some light.
3. Temp gauge could be thrown off by sensor. In pix it is the one on left with a single wire. Clean off any scum around the top bolt connector with a small wire brush.
4. Gauge is a guess and is not to be trusted. If you can get an OBDII scanner, it will show coolant temp from the other sensor, in digital form. You can see in the pix that "normal" may be a lot higher than you like. ULtra Gauge also makes a nifty scanner display.
5. I run a 180F thermostat, and temps stay around 183, climbing to 187 on freeway with AC on.
6. Fan clutch should be checked. With truck warmed up, engine off, spin fan and release. Should feel like peanut butter inside clutch and come to a stop in under on revolution. Freewheeling and the clutch is bad, you'll have poor cooling slow and parked.
7. Coolant level should be checked.
8. Radiator may be full of calcium sludge from old age. Evaluate by warming up truck, then feel or measure fin temp top to bottom. If 10F colder in bottom rows, low flow from blockage. My indy rad shop rodded it out, hot flushed with ctric acid, and soldered a few spots for $75 carry in. Home brew flush usually won't work quickly on really clogged ones.
9/ Obviously gauge should not start off high, should take some time to get there from a cold start.
2. Clean out mud and leaves impacted in AC condenser and radiator, pull out rubber strip at top to see muck between them. When cleaned out, should be able to put a light behind fan and looking in from the front grille see some light.
3. Temp gauge could be thrown off by sensor. In pix it is the one on left with a single wire. Clean off any scum around the top bolt connector with a small wire brush.
4. Gauge is a guess and is not to be trusted. If you can get an OBDII scanner, it will show coolant temp from the other sensor, in digital form. You can see in the pix that "normal" may be a lot higher than you like. ULtra Gauge also makes a nifty scanner display.
5. I run a 180F thermostat, and temps stay around 183, climbing to 187 on freeway with AC on.
6. Fan clutch should be checked. With truck warmed up, engine off, spin fan and release. Should feel like peanut butter inside clutch and come to a stop in under on revolution. Freewheeling and the clutch is bad, you'll have poor cooling slow and parked.
7. Coolant level should be checked.
8. Radiator may be full of calcium sludge from old age. Evaluate by warming up truck, then feel or measure fin temp top to bottom. If 10F colder in bottom rows, low flow from blockage. My indy rad shop rodded it out, hot flushed with ctric acid, and soldered a few spots for $75 carry in. Home brew flush usually won't work quickly on really clogged ones.
9/ Obviously gauge should not start off high, should take some time to get there from a cold start.
Last edited by Savannah Buzz; Jul 9, 2013 at 11:09 AM.
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