Follow these steps, and report back.
Engine Overheating

1. Is coolant level correct? NO - Allow engine to cool, top up level to expansion tank seam.

YES - Continue.

1. Is drive belt tension correct? NO - Adjust Drive belt

YES - Continue.

1. Is Ignition Timing correct? NO - Check Ignition Timing.

YES - Continue.

1. Is coolant in radiator frozen? YES - Slowly thaw and drain system.

NO - Continue.

1. Is air flow through radiator restricted or blocked? YES - Apply air pressure from engine side of radiator to clear obstruction.

NO - Continue.

1. Are there any external leaks from water pump, engine gaskets or the heater unit? YES - Investigate and rectify.

NO - Continue.

1. Are fan blades fitted correctly, concave side towards engine? NO - Rectify.

YES - Continue.

1. Is fan clutch operating correctly? NO - Renew.

YES - Carry out a pressure test on radiator cap and system. Check thermostat type, operation and correct fitting.

If pressure test leads you to suspect coolant leakage across gaskets, go to check 11, otherwise: Continue.

1. Are the air conditioning fans operating correctly? NO - Rectify.

YES - Continue.

1. Is temperature sender and gauge giving accurate readings? NO - Substitute parts and compare readings.

YES - Continue.

1. Carry out cylinder pressure test to determine if pressure is leaking into cooling system causing over pressurizing and loss of coolant.

If problem is not diagnosed, check the coolant system for engine oil contamination and engine lubrication system for coolant contamination.

If the coolant only, or both systems are contaminated, suspect cylinder head gaskets or radiator.

If only the lubrication system is contaminated with coolant, suspect inlet manifold or front cover gaskets.

 

List is typical factory approved maximum service costs all threats . Overheating by frozen radiator in the summer in LA (lower Alabama) is unlikely. Belt route is not listed. Old radiator clogged up is not listed. How to do these tests is not listed. Some tests that are listed require the DIY to purchase more equipment (ignition timing) or swap with known good parts. Water pump is not listed.

That said, I think we should construct a sticky class post with photos to guide one and all through a check list with expected values and results listed, so additional research is not needed. The most expert among us will sometimes not recall a tiny vital item. From a DIY viewpoint, simple tests all on the same item or those accessed at the same time make sense. Like belt tension (how far it deflects), belt route, belt condition (frayed or glazed or cracking or dry rot); all easy to look at the same time before going to the next item. Some suggested repairs don't make sense on the list, like using air from the fan side of the radiator to clear any obstruction - won't do a whole lot for the crap between the radiator and the condenser except stir it around.

 

People have access to the RAVE. The tests are there. This is merely meant as a quick guide, not a step by baby step guide for those that cannot look up the more involved steps in the RAVE as they should.

 

I get Chris Bob's point but I also agree that a good sticky would certainly cut down on doing the same threads over and over for noobs. Just my $0.02. If I had more time and a better camera I would do it.

 

I can see both sides. While a step by step sticky might cut down on the threads asking, "How do I do "X"?", if they learn to use RAVE, they may actually consult if before their next thread.

Give a man a fish and you feed him for a day. Teach a man to fish and you feed him for a lifetime.

 

The ignition timing check only applies to '95 and older models with distributors.
The A/C fans aren't needed if the rest of the cooling system is in good nick.

 

Great info to add.

 

The AC fans are there for slow to non-moving operation of the AC, overheat boost cooling (above 212) and hot engine/hot fuel condition (safety). The way Rover designs things, if the AC fans were not needed if the rest of the system was in good condition, they would have left them off. The assumptions in the RAVE manuals are that you have a factory stock vehicle, never serviced by anyone except the dealership in a shop with more tools than six Home Depots and two Harbor Freights. The AC fans can cause overheating, if your previous owner replaced them and reversed the wiring polarity (be there, got the T shirt). That's the kind of thing that is not in the RAVE. jafir convinced me to keep looking for an airflow problem, and I found it with an air conditioning air flow test meter, not a stock iitem at most shops.

That produces a problem in trouble diagnosis if you don't consider that the wrench turned before your ownership was turned in the wrong direction. And, the present owner of a Rover may be less skilled than the previous owner. On older models, there may have been many owners, and various levels of repair. Finally the value of the vehicle has dropped to the point where more "dreamers" can make the purchase, only to find that they have a lot of things to catch up on for maintenance, and things on Rovers are not always found on Detroit iron.

As such, these persons join this forum, seeking the wisdom that comes from the group. A quick answer may be correct, but an explanation behind it helps raise the knowledge level of all who read the sticky or the posts. A lot more people view the posts than respond to them (better to be silent and thought a fool than to type and remove all doubt - as I frequently do).

As such, I believe a sticky for this type of decision tree should include the symtoms, the possibles, and explanantions, perhaps in chart form, so that more experienced hands can go down the list quickly, and newbies can get all the details. The RAVE manual is not written for newbies, it is written for an experienced mechanic. It also does not include the experience of long term owners.

Note: I will conceed that frozen radiator can be a problem in Chris-Bob's neck of the woods. A friend who worked for the Air Force out in the islands said it was so cold, they kept the big trucks inside a garage, and that block heaters were not enough, they drained the oil and kept it in a large cook pot on an electric hotplate all night. Had to pour hot oil into the engine to get it to crank.