How does it idle any black smoke?

 

You can see it in the video clearly.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7G3D1TeUmUc

 

The fuel temp sensor effects fueling at start up.
A bad coolant temp sensor can cause overfueling.
That was the problem I had.
There are 2 coolant temp sensors, one for the ECU, one for the temp gauge.
The one right ontop of the engine in the front next to the t-stat housing is the one for the ECU.

 

geez. dont throw it away i feel bad for you..

One thing is your not checking fuel pressure correctly. A dial is better. but TURN the key on and hold for 5 secs BEFORE you check it to prime the line. And if you miss and gas leaks do it agian.

YEA THATS RICH

 

The ECT with 2 wires is the ECT you need to check. The single wire ECT is for the temp gauge. Also, I would suggest getting a fuel pressure tester kit. They are relatively inexpensive and are mush more accurate and reliable than a air pressure gauge. Having zero pressure on an engine that sat all night is not bad. Having zero fuel pressure immediately after shutting off the engine indicates a problem. The fuel line should stay pressurized for a little while, at least that is the norm.

 

Funny that it is running that rich but not idling high...has to be a fuel delivery issue. ECT, injectors, ?...Swap the injectors back. Can't hurt to try.

 

I dropped the original injectors off to see if they can be checked. one thing we noticed is that the insides nozzles all seem to move in them, but in the case of 2 of them they where so loose that they actually laid over to the side on their own. I have a feeling those 2 are bad at least.

I'll still have them all checked, but it's cheaper to buy a new set than rebuild them here as they want almost 100 per injector rebuilt.

I was able to get the metal part that holds the oil separator in the PCV line on the valve cover gasket out as instructed. Much easier than pulling the whole valve cover. Had to use a hammer and screw driver to knock out he crap in there and open it up. So, it's back together and that parts breathing right now, less the oil separator piece.

Doing that "test run in the video fouled out all the plugs, and she would not start this morning. I had to use it to go get some propane and kerosene to heat my house, so I tossed in yet another new set of plugs. Drove 9 miles into town and had already fouled that set to the point the truck would not run. Pulled them out, cleaned them and made it back home... barely. Since I had already ordered the new coolant temp sensor, I picked it up and put it in before I left town, (while I was cleaning and replacing the plugs) AS we know from my OHM reading the one in there was working so it was really and act of futility and made no difference.

That total of 22 miles driven used over a quarter tank of fuel but, I had no choice.

 

Geez that's really horrible.. Is there a junkyard with a rover near you?

Get this thing to a textbook asap

 

Before you go to the trouble of dropping the tank, make sure it is not the steel fuel feed/return lines that are leaking. If they are original, I would bet they have corroded to the point of imminent failure.

The fuel line from the fillere neck is in the following pics. the third one is a line I am unsure of it's function, but that is the condition on mine. I will have to search some more pics to find the ones I took of the actual feed and return lines, also the top of the fuel pump assembly could be leaking like mine was.

 

Here's some more pics of where mine was loosing pressure/leaking.