Plug Fouling 96 D1. All plugs.
#121
I am sure someone will slam this post, but replace these parts. It is a kit and something you can rule out. If the little crankshaft thingy is clogged, it does no good at all, better to just leave the hose off all together.
http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/9205G.cfm
Replace all 3 parts and clean the holes so you know you have good flow.
.
http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/9205G.cfm
Replace all 3 parts and clean the holes so you know you have good flow.
.
#123
Sorry to read that you are having such a high degree of problems with it.
If you do decide to continue, You don't need to drop the tank to replace any of those fuel lines. All you have to do is remove the plate in the rear cargo area floor plate.
Sounds like a real helter skelter approach was taken overall, but I don't want to throw fuel on a fire that is already raging as I can see you are extremely frustrated with your ordeal.
If the vehicle itself is in that good a shape, maybe snatching that mototr and exhaust would be a good way to go.
Did you see the one on EBay where the guy replaced his engine with a brand new GM Vortec engine?
Or just go ahead and dump that miserable beast and be done with it.
You could go ahead and make sure the fuel lines are leaking real good and drive it a short distance and be ready to bail when it erupts into flames but that would be risking an insurance fraud case.
Did you see the new BMW burst into flames in Atlanta when the idiot driving it got it stuck in the snow and kept spinning the wheels until it befame a fireball? It was on the Today Show this morning. It was awesome footage.
Best Wishes to you, may the Rover Gods take mercy on you.
If you do decide to continue, You don't need to drop the tank to replace any of those fuel lines. All you have to do is remove the plate in the rear cargo area floor plate.
Sounds like a real helter skelter approach was taken overall, but I don't want to throw fuel on a fire that is already raging as I can see you are extremely frustrated with your ordeal.
If the vehicle itself is in that good a shape, maybe snatching that mototr and exhaust would be a good way to go.
Did you see the one on EBay where the guy replaced his engine with a brand new GM Vortec engine?
Or just go ahead and dump that miserable beast and be done with it.
You could go ahead and make sure the fuel lines are leaking real good and drive it a short distance and be ready to bail when it erupts into flames but that would be risking an insurance fraud case.
Did you see the new BMW burst into flames in Atlanta when the idiot driving it got it stuck in the snow and kept spinning the wheels until it befame a fireball? It was on the Today Show this morning. It was awesome footage.
Best Wishes to you, may the Rover Gods take mercy on you.
#124
I am sure someone will slam this post, but replace these parts. It is a kit and something you can rule out. If the little crankshaft thingy is clogged, it does no good at all, better to just leave the hose off all together.
http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/9205G.cfm
Replace all 3 parts and clean the holes so you know you have good flow.
Make dang sure your knock sensor is seated properly. If someone used teflon tape, it isn't reading right. This will retard the timing and overfuel.
You seriously need to hook this thing up to a scanner and read the real-time live data.
http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/9205G.cfm
Replace all 3 parts and clean the holes so you know you have good flow.
Make dang sure your knock sensor is seated properly. If someone used teflon tape, it isn't reading right. This will retard the timing and overfuel.
You seriously need to hook this thing up to a scanner and read the real-time live data.
I don't have a fuel pressure gauge, so I use a tire pressure gauge. (actually, I have a nice fuel pressure gauge, but don't have an end that will screw onto the rovers nipple.
Anyways, I ran out and check fuel pressure before starting the truck, didn't get any pressure. Started the truck and had at least 30, turned off the truck and again zero. I thinking that those ford 19# injectors I put in are leaking.
I did a new video of it yesterday...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7G3D1TeUmUc
Can I reuse those new valve cover gaskets or are they a one time deal?
Went out to start it today so I could get into town and get some food, damn things fouled out the plugs again, so I have to have my mother in law drive out there from Chattanooga, take me into town to get a set of plugs and take me to the store. It's getting old...
Looks like I can get a full set of new original rover injectors for about 370. Still, I'm going to take mine over and have them pop tested and see if they where actually bad to begin with.
Last edited by ngarover; 01-11-2011 at 01:35 PM.
#125
Sorry to read that you are having such a high degree of problems with it.
If you do decide to continue, You don't need to drop the tank to replace any of those fuel lines. All you have to do is remove the plate in the rear cargo area floor plate.
Sounds like a real helter skelter approach was taken overall, but I don't want to throw fuel on a fire that is already raging as I can see you are extremely frustrated with your ordeal.
If the vehicle itself is in that good a shape, maybe snatching that mototr and exhaust would be a good way to go.
Did you see the one on EBay where the guy replaced his engine with a brand new GM Vortec engine?
Or just go ahead and dump that miserable beast and be done with it.
You could go ahead and make sure the fuel lines are leaking real good and drive it a short distance and be ready to bail when it erupts into flames but that would be risking an insurance fraud case.
Did you see the new BMW burst into flames in Atlanta when the idiot driving it got it stuck in the snow and kept spinning the wheels until it befame a fireball? It was on the Today Show this morning. It was awesome footage.
Best Wishes to you, may the Rover Gods take mercy on you.
If you do decide to continue, You don't need to drop the tank to replace any of those fuel lines. All you have to do is remove the plate in the rear cargo area floor plate.
Sounds like a real helter skelter approach was taken overall, but I don't want to throw fuel on a fire that is already raging as I can see you are extremely frustrated with your ordeal.
If the vehicle itself is in that good a shape, maybe snatching that mototr and exhaust would be a good way to go.
Did you see the one on EBay where the guy replaced his engine with a brand new GM Vortec engine?
Or just go ahead and dump that miserable beast and be done with it.
You could go ahead and make sure the fuel lines are leaking real good and drive it a short distance and be ready to bail when it erupts into flames but that would be risking an insurance fraud case.
Did you see the new BMW burst into flames in Atlanta when the idiot driving it got it stuck in the snow and kept spinning the wheels until it befame a fireball? It was on the Today Show this morning. It was awesome footage.
Best Wishes to you, may the Rover Gods take mercy on you.
The approach to fix it was the best I could do with limited funds. I did what I had first. Or fixed things I knew I could fix myself with what I had on hand.
I missed the vortex powered rover... My guess is that the engine was too much for the drive train hence his selling it? Plus, your really not gaining any freedom from the computer, just moving to a different platform. It's another reason I really like the MB diesel. It's a pretty bullet proof, decent fuel milage engine with a crap load of low end. and not a single computer, or sensor on it. I could care less if it wouldn't be able to maintain 75mph, I hardly drive that fast now.
Missed the fireball.
#126
Valve cover gasket can be reused. Before you order the new separator.. You CSN remove the little metal peice from the valve cover. I have done it. You might bend it a little but I used a pair of channel locks and just turned and pulled. Then you can push the oil separator out and throw it away. It's not completely nessisary.
Only way to tell if it's your injector or fuel pump would be to prime the system: turn key clamp off soft gas line going to the hose and the turn off key, now check pressure if it looses pressure it is the injector or something past the clamp. If it doesn't loose pressure it may be a bad check valve. I day do diesel conversion just for the heck of it.
Only way to tell if it's your injector or fuel pump would be to prime the system: turn key clamp off soft gas line going to the hose and the turn off key, now check pressure if it looses pressure it is the injector or something past the clamp. If it doesn't loose pressure it may be a bad check valve. I day do diesel conversion just for the heck of it.
#130
my understanding is the fuel temp sensor would only effect the truck at startup, the only real issue you might see if it was bad was possible hard HOT restarts. But once trucks running it really does nothing?