Plug Fouling 96 D1. All plugs.
Three Wheeling
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 98
Likes: 0
containmated fuel
hi
i read the first 4 pages then the last 2, so forgive me if this has benn done already
The plug fouling looks very similar to plugs i had when my petrol was contaminated with diesel fuel on my 350 chev, have you drained the tank and put fresh gas in and flushed the lines, as i read it seems to idle ok, but run rich, with diesel you will get black smoke foul plugs and it will lool like over fueling, just ready several tanks of gas has been thru it, from the same gas station??? if so try another station, they may have bad fuel
Cheers
Pedro
i read the first 4 pages then the last 2, so forgive me if this has benn done already
The plug fouling looks very similar to plugs i had when my petrol was contaminated with diesel fuel on my 350 chev, have you drained the tank and put fresh gas in and flushed the lines, as i read it seems to idle ok, but run rich, with diesel you will get black smoke foul plugs and it will lool like over fueling, just ready several tanks of gas has been thru it, from the same gas station??? if so try another station, they may have bad fuel
Cheers
Pedro
Last edited by pedronz; Jan 15, 2011 at 02:32 AM. Reason: new thought
Thread Starter
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Winching
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 683
Likes: 3
hi
i read the first 4 pages then the last 2, so forgive me if this has benn done already
The plug fouling looks very similar to plugs i had when my petrol was contaminated with diesel fuel on my 350 chev, have you drained the tank and put fresh gas in and flushed the lines, as i read it seems to idle ok, but run rich, with diesel you will get black smoke foul plugs and it will lool like over fueling, just ready several tanks of gas has been thru it, from the same gas station??? if so try another station, they may have bad fuel
Cheers
Pedro
i read the first 4 pages then the last 2, so forgive me if this has benn done already
The plug fouling looks very similar to plugs i had when my petrol was contaminated with diesel fuel on my 350 chev, have you drained the tank and put fresh gas in and flushed the lines, as i read it seems to idle ok, but run rich, with diesel you will get black smoke foul plugs and it will lool like over fueling, just ready several tanks of gas has been thru it, from the same gas station??? if so try another station, they may have bad fuel
Cheers
Pedro
It's going to get up to 43 today, so I'm going to go outside and play with it more, trace that coolant sensor wire back to the ECU and make sure it's not broken.
Does anyone have instructions on how to test the wire loom for the Injectors to see if they are "Grounded" all the time?
I'm also going to remove the access panel over the fuel pump and get a closer look at the connection in there to see about this leak. Will take pictures of the issue.
I'm in a holding pattern on the injectors themselves until tuesday. The snow here caused a bulk of places to be closed all week, including the shop that tests them. So they will be taken over on monday.
In researching, other things that I guess I need to look at are the VSS and the Crank Position Sensor. Even though I'm not tossing codes for either, it sounds like some of my issues could be cause by one or both of these being flakey.
Last edited by ngarover; Jan 15, 2011 at 07:31 AM.
Thread Starter
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Winching
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 683
Likes: 3
On the fuel line....
Here are pictures of the issue...
Here is one end of the line, Badly cracked, but not leaking.
The leak is coming from above the tank, when full, then pouring down the side over the big line.
The big line looks to be in nefarious shape itself...
As you can see, I have already spliced one break in the hose. (was done to get it to the shop.) This was before the second bigger leak started.
Looking at the hoses accessible from the access panel in the rear, this leaking hose does not seem to be one of them. I'm not really sure where the leaking hose even terminates right now on the tank, but according to the rover manual you have to drop the tank to get to it. (unless someone can tell me another trick) Also, which hose is it exactly? looking at the parts, I can not tell what I would even order to replace them.
Note, this picture is actually turned 90 degrees. The hoses actually exit toward the front of the truck, in this picture the area where that hose should be would be at the very bottom.
Also in this picture, you see a plug, that's not hooked to anything... and there seems to be nothing around for it to hook too... I'm guessing some option I don't have?
Here are pictures of the issue...
Here is one end of the line, Badly cracked, but not leaking.
The leak is coming from above the tank, when full, then pouring down the side over the big line.
The big line looks to be in nefarious shape itself...
As you can see, I have already spliced one break in the hose. (was done to get it to the shop.) This was before the second bigger leak started.
Looking at the hoses accessible from the access panel in the rear, this leaking hose does not seem to be one of them. I'm not really sure where the leaking hose even terminates right now on the tank, but according to the rover manual you have to drop the tank to get to it. (unless someone can tell me another trick) Also, which hose is it exactly? looking at the parts, I can not tell what I would even order to replace them.
Note, this picture is actually turned 90 degrees. The hoses actually exit toward the front of the truck, in this picture the area where that hose should be would be at the very bottom.
Also in this picture, you see a plug, that's not hooked to anything... and there seems to be nothing around for it to hook too... I'm guessing some option I don't have?
Last edited by ngarover; Jan 15, 2011 at 11:34 AM.
Baja
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 5,584
Likes: 7
From: Pittsburgh PA suburbs.
You have a bad hose or 2
Man,
Take a look here: https://landroverforums.com/forum/members/danny-lee-97-disco-20663-albums-danny-lee-s-disco-272/
Clean the top of your fuel pump assembly real good, then start your engine and observe it under full pressure. If the top of yours is cracked like mine was, you'll see it leak under pressure after a good cleanup.
As far as your hoses, the big one from the filler neck is defitely shot. I got mine from Rovers North. Perfect fit. Mine does not have the same smaller hose like you have, but in the next to last picture you posted, why is one end darker than the other if it ain't been leaking? Replace all that stuff to reduce your existing problems.
Take a look here: https://landroverforums.com/forum/members/danny-lee-97-disco-20663-albums-danny-lee-s-disco-272/
Clean the top of your fuel pump assembly real good, then start your engine and observe it under full pressure. If the top of yours is cracked like mine was, you'll see it leak under pressure after a good cleanup.
As far as your hoses, the big one from the filler neck is defitely shot. I got mine from Rovers North. Perfect fit. Mine does not have the same smaller hose like you have, but in the next to last picture you posted, why is one end darker than the other if it ain't been leaking? Replace all that stuff to reduce your existing problems.
Thread Starter
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Winching
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 683
Likes: 3
So I'm sitting here and reading more and more of the RAVE to see what I can learn and I think i'm on to something....
There is a "feature" on my truck called "robust immobilisation"
Which by dictionary definition breaks down to
strong in constitution; hardy; vigorous + the act of limiting movement or making incapable of movement....
See, The difficulty in fixing this truck is a feature!
There is a "feature" on my truck called "robust immobilisation"
Which by dictionary definition breaks down to
strong in constitution; hardy; vigorous + the act of limiting movement or making incapable of movement....
See, The difficulty in fixing this truck is a feature!
Three Wheeling
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 98
Likes: 0
Doubting it's the fuel. 1. it was bone dry when I bought it. 2, I only use non ethanol premium from Chevron. Plus, at this point, it's had a total of 6 tanks of fuel though it.
fair call, altohugh did it run fine on the first fill? then turn to crap?
Does anyone have instructions on how to test the wire loom for the Injectors to see if they are "Grounded" all the time?
fairly simple, unplug the injectors, turn ign on, one pin of the plug will have 12v on it, the other pin should be open circuit, if you get a reading on the multi meter then is is a grounded circuit, personally, i would then plug each injector in and see if it "clicks on and stays on" that would indicate a short curcuit to ground.
also as you have had the headers/heads off check around the back of the motor for any wires that have not been put back on to the block for earth, injection is sensitive to poor earths, i would literally run your hands around the loom and track every wire and make sure literally goes to some thing, and if one does not go to some thing ID it!!
also get the wiring diagram for the motor and ecu, unplug the ecu and check the wiring going out to the motor with multi meter, this way you can check all power supplies, resistance of circuits, all earths and they are as in running position.
Pedro
fair call, altohugh did it run fine on the first fill? then turn to crap?
Does anyone have instructions on how to test the wire loom for the Injectors to see if they are "Grounded" all the time?
fairly simple, unplug the injectors, turn ign on, one pin of the plug will have 12v on it, the other pin should be open circuit, if you get a reading on the multi meter then is is a grounded circuit, personally, i would then plug each injector in and see if it "clicks on and stays on" that would indicate a short curcuit to ground.
also as you have had the headers/heads off check around the back of the motor for any wires that have not been put back on to the block for earth, injection is sensitive to poor earths, i would literally run your hands around the loom and track every wire and make sure literally goes to some thing, and if one does not go to some thing ID it!!
also get the wiring diagram for the motor and ecu, unplug the ecu and check the wiring going out to the motor with multi meter, this way you can check all power supplies, resistance of circuits, all earths and they are as in running position.
Pedro
TReK
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 2,073
Likes: 6
From: Ketchikan, Alaska, USA
So I'm sitting here and reading more and more of the RAVE to see what I can learn and I think i'm on to something....
There is a "feature" on my truck called "robust immobilisation"
Which by dictionary definition breaks down to
strong in constitution; hardy; vigorous + the act of limiting movement or making incapable of movement....
See, The difficulty in fixing this truck is a feature!
There is a "feature" on my truck called "robust immobilisation"
Which by dictionary definition breaks down to
strong in constitution; hardy; vigorous + the act of limiting movement or making incapable of movement....
See, The difficulty in fixing this truck is a feature!
Three Wheeling
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 98
Likes: 0
fuel pressure regulator
hi
having finally read thru the thread, i note that fuel pressure regulator has not been mentioned, these work by looking at manifold vac and adjusting themselves to suit, low vac will increase fuel pressure, it may well be jammed closed by crap in the fuel system or even blocked, remove it from the fuel rail and see if it looks clear or has no debris in it, blow thru it, it should be closed and be unable to blow thru, try and locate a friend with the similar motor and borrow it and see if it changes
this if jammed in a almost closed position would explain the fuel pressure going to zero instantly when shut down, and when motor is running effectively forcing more fuel thru injectors because of high pressure causing a rich condition
also check the return line to fuel tank, this may be blocked/crimped as well, the muffler shop may have levered off the body work when fitting the exhaust and inadvertantly crushed a return line
the fact this happen when cming home from a exhuast shop suggests look underneath first, most definitley where these guys were working.
just some more ideas for ya
Pedro
cheers
Pedro
having finally read thru the thread, i note that fuel pressure regulator has not been mentioned, these work by looking at manifold vac and adjusting themselves to suit, low vac will increase fuel pressure, it may well be jammed closed by crap in the fuel system or even blocked, remove it from the fuel rail and see if it looks clear or has no debris in it, blow thru it, it should be closed and be unable to blow thru, try and locate a friend with the similar motor and borrow it and see if it changes
this if jammed in a almost closed position would explain the fuel pressure going to zero instantly when shut down, and when motor is running effectively forcing more fuel thru injectors because of high pressure causing a rich condition
also check the return line to fuel tank, this may be blocked/crimped as well, the muffler shop may have levered off the body work when fitting the exhaust and inadvertantly crushed a return line
the fact this happen when cming home from a exhuast shop suggests look underneath first, most definitley where these guys were working.
just some more ideas for ya
Pedro
cheers
Pedro
Thread Starter
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Winching
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 683
Likes: 3
hi
having finally read thru the thread, i note that fuel pressure regulator has not been mentioned, these work by looking at manifold vac and adjusting themselves to suit, low vac will increase fuel pressure, it may well be jammed closed by crap in the fuel system or even blocked, remove it from the fuel rail and see if it looks clear or has no debris in it, blow thru it, it should be closed and be unable to blow thru, try and locate a friend with the similar motor and borrow it and see if it changes
this if jammed in a almost closed position would explain the fuel pressure going to zero instantly when shut down, and when motor is running effectively forcing more fuel thru injectors because of high pressure causing a rich condition
also check the return line to fuel tank, this may be blocked/crimped as well, the muffler shop may have levered off the body work when fitting the exhaust and inadvertantly crushed a return line
the fact this happen when cming home from a exhuast shop suggests look underneath first, most definitley where these guys were working.
just some more ideas for ya
Pedro
cheers
Pedro
having finally read thru the thread, i note that fuel pressure regulator has not been mentioned, these work by looking at manifold vac and adjusting themselves to suit, low vac will increase fuel pressure, it may well be jammed closed by crap in the fuel system or even blocked, remove it from the fuel rail and see if it looks clear or has no debris in it, blow thru it, it should be closed and be unable to blow thru, try and locate a friend with the similar motor and borrow it and see if it changes
this if jammed in a almost closed position would explain the fuel pressure going to zero instantly when shut down, and when motor is running effectively forcing more fuel thru injectors because of high pressure causing a rich condition
also check the return line to fuel tank, this may be blocked/crimped as well, the muffler shop may have levered off the body work when fitting the exhaust and inadvertantly crushed a return line
the fact this happen when cming home from a exhuast shop suggests look underneath first, most definitley where these guys were working.
just some more ideas for ya
Pedro
cheers
Pedro
Actually, in reading the RAVE deeper I came across the same thing this afternoon. It is one thing that I don't believe has been really looked at. I'm thinking that I also put in the wrong ford injectors,
I did an OHM reading of them, and it was 14.5... Disco injectors are like 16.8.
Here is what I put in,
"Fuel Injectors 0 280 155 700
Set of eight (8) used 19lb yellow Ford Motorsport fuel injectors. They have been tested in good working used condition.
Bosch part number 0 280 155 700 and Ford part number F4SE-A1B. These are the Generation 3 style Bosch injectors with EV1 style plug and four hole nozzle for more efficient spray pattern. These injectors are commonly used on many vehicles to upgrade from the older and more inneficient style single pintle injectors. "