there are basically two types of injectors "electrically speaking" high impedance and low impedance, low is 2-3ohms and high are 12ohms and up, i dont beleive the impedance is a problem for you,

check out the fuel regulator!!!

pedro

 

What's the best way to test to fuel regulator? I see a couple ways like starting the truck, unplugging the vac from the regulator and seeing if any gas comes out. showing a blown diaphragm inside the regulator. The other test I see, which I can't perform since I done have the correct nipple to fit the 1.8 fuel pressure port for my fuel pressure gauge, is to again run the truck, pull the fuel reg vac, and see if the fuel pressure changes when doing so. (should alter it 5-10 psi. from my understanding)

But can I pull a vacuum on the Fuel regulator itself and see if it holds? should it hold? I do have a mighty vac sitting here that can pull vacuum.

 

i would start by pulling it off the vehicle and check if there is any crap sitting in it, also to check the return line to tank, blow air thru the return line if you can blow by mouth then it is pretty clear,
the fuel reg, if as you apply a vacuum you may be able to blow thru it with a full vac load on it,

a quick and dirty trick is to start the vehicle, and clamp off the return line after the fuel reg, see if the idle changes or stays static, disconnect the vac line and see if that alters anything, you are looking for a change in fueling which will alter the idle, if nothing you do alters the idle, then the reg is suspect.

you could use your tyre gauge, take a reading with vac connected and then on with it disconnected, should change by a reasonable amount.

pedro

 

have you gotten a correct fuel pressure reading back to us yet?

Give us fuel pressure reading with engine running and with engine off and system primed. I would clamp off and/or just pull the vac hose to the FPR. If some how gas was flowing straight through the vac line OMG I WOULD BE PISSED..

Please get us a fuel pressure. AND RUN IT AS LITTLE AS POSSIBLE if you want to keep your new cats though it may be too late.

 

WEll, place that we dropped off the original injectors said they couldn't test them and the only way to test them was in the engine and with a computer. (doesn't sound right to me)

Anyways, I'll try to pickup a new fuel pressure tester today if I can get into town. I spend most of the day yesterday trying to locate the 1/8 adapter for mine to make it fine on the shrader valve with no luck. sucks that I have to spend another 50 bucks just to gat my hands on the correct fitting.

No fuel coming out of the vac line from the fuel pressure regulator, can't do the second part of the test for it without having the fuel pressure gauge hooked up.

Almost wondering if I should just crawl under the truck and drop the new exhaust, run it open header, until we can sort this out and try and save those new cats. Hoping it not to late for them already.

 

After seeing the pictures you posted of your rubber hose from the filler nozzle to the tank, you need to go ahead and replace that. How can it have true pressure integrity with all those cracks? Also if you have a major fuel leak like you said it does when completely full how can it hold any pressure?

Would you dive with air hoses that were in that condition? Driving with those ain't too bright either in my opinion.

I have an early 97 which is pre-AEL like your 96. I had to replace the line on mine and it was in better shape than yours. Do yourself a favor and get new filler hose on there. Rovers North has the right one at a good price. You are peeing in the wind without a good pressure integrity which you ain't got.

 

found this on another website, my pick is the fuel reg being blocked. have you pulled it off yet and checked it or blown thru the return line,

Cracked hoses while no desirable will have little effect on the performance

Pedro

 

No, I have not touch it yet. I just bought another 300d, an 81 this time and have been working on it, and working on my 87 300D. Just ordered about 600 in parts for those 2 cars.

I'll get back to this rover in a bit, should have all the stuff I want done to the other 2 cars by the end of this coming week depending on when the parts get here.

Honestly, Even my wife told me today to do the swap and just get a om617 in there. Replacing just the injectors and o2's on the truck is about 600 bucks. and that 600 bucks is nothing more than a test, that may or may not solve the problem... I can buy an entire 617 turbo complete and running with a warranty for that. hell, for a couple hundred more I could buy the whole car. Then you add on the fuel lines, and any other issue thats bound to pop up if I started actually driving it.

I just keep looking at her and wondering if it just tossing good money after bad. It would be totally different if I new exactly what the issue was and knew exactly what parts I needed to buy repair to make it right. AND knowing that if I spend this money to fix that 4.0, I'm still no better off when another sensor craps out and leaves me basically in the same boat again. It's become another toss parts at her and hope type of repair and that is totally ridiculous.

 

i hear what you are saying and it is frustrating, the key to me is it ran like **** after someone else worked on it, ie fitted the exhaust, climb under it and follow both fuel lines from tank to motor, it may be as simple at a crushed fuel hose by the exhaust shop levering something into place, cost nothing to track the lines,
replacing the o2 sensors will do bugger all, and will only effect cruise economy, as soon as you are accelerating the motor goes open loop and ignores the sensor anyway, and is not the cause of it runnig this rich, the fact it runs says it has ign timing, it has fuel and everything seems happy apart from lots black smoke, possibly the temp sender, i doubt it,

check fuel lines, remove fuel pressure reg and check for obstruction, blow down the return line, hell remove the fuel pressure reg and replace with rubber hose, the partially clamp it off, may take a few goes to get it right, ie get fuel pressure up, give it a rev, does it run better? , does it smoke as much,? smoke more what ever?, what i am saying is you can "play" or "experiment" with this sort of thing and worst case you will flood the motor or it will stall due to lack of fuel, will cost you nothing more than time!!!

but if it changes radically in its running performance then you are onto something, people on various forums here and others are really quick to blame sensors, and spend moon beams replacing them,
yes they do die ,but generally they are bloody reliable, and if they do die the motor will either run poorly or not at all,

the airflow meter if faulty will go to a default value and rely on the TPS,
temp sensor will will default to a rich position, (not as rich yours)
crank sensor dies , motor will generally stop or run rough as
anything in dizzy dies then it lights out

fuel pressure

Cheers Pedro,

ps you came this far, spend a couple more hours playing with it!!

 

If you need a cheap fuel pressure gauge I bought this one a while back LINK it works great. And free shipping, no need to leave the house! (looks cold outside) I couldn't get a good reading with a tire gauge myself, tried both the pen and dial types.