Are you forgetting you will have to fit the new engine to the transmission.

Not to be rude but the thought of someone who cant report with an accurte fuel pressure, trying to do a never before done engine swap is scary.

You wouldn't be replacing the fuel
Pressure regulator of you could
Just tell us the dang fuel
Pressure was 33psi running.

On a lighter note this engine is still worth a good bit as in my oppinion it's a running engine

 

I have taken a reading using the tire gauge, it's right around 33. Sure it's not a screw on fuel pressure gauge, but it works.

I do have some experience with swapping engines...

Here I am putting a 383 blown stroker motor into my s-10



Here's a shot of the truck done....



BTW, I won the Truck Nationals AND World of Wheels with that truck.

 

Ok, so more information....

I went out and did 3 new videos of the truck so far today. I removed the shrader valve, and screwed in a permeant fuel pressure gauge. Turned on the key and pressure was right where it should be...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NoNvvoXeLhw

Truck fired and died with fouled plugs again. So I cleaned them and put them back in.... but it's been the 3rd or 4th time I have cleaned this set and they have had it... but the thing to notice is the fuel pressure... even after getting the plugs back in about 20 min later, it's holding steady.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cx6d3zoNTvw

Ran into town got another set (12th) set of plugs. At 18 bucks a set that's 216 bucks in plugs so far. each sets been in the truck, fouled cleaned at least 3 times and reused until they just could not work anymore.

Got the new set it, truck fire right off, fuel pressure what still rock solid 35, and had help that for a couple hours while I was getting the plugs and putting them in.
So I pulled the vac line from the fuel regulator, dry. Fuel pressure increased about 10 pounds doing so, which it should.

So I put the mightyvac on the plenum. Reads about 15hg vac.

Then I put the mightvac on the regulator and gave it pressure... watch the fuel pressure as I do, it climbs, as it should. Then I switch and pulled a vacuum on it, and the fuel pressure dropped back down to where it should be.

The fuel regular tests out just fine and does exactly what it should be doing.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eP6sSGc8GP8

So, now I'm heading back out and I'm going to put the original injectors back in and do the tests again.

 

Just finished putting in the original injectors. here are a few videos of how it's running with them...

First start after putting in the old injectors.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XzeFKdjO--w

after getting back from about a 5 mile test drive... still rich. Missed a little on the way back. I rev it up a couple good times so you can see what's coming out the pipe, plus check out how it idles itself down to about 100 rpms after.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yr6oc5Q_ZXQ

I should make note that the truck runs like a scalded ape... right now, with the new plugs in even running as bad as it is, it will sit you back in the seat. Punch it and it's a rocket... Much more power than either my old 97 or my 99 d1's.. If I could solve this rich issue it would be a damn fast rover. I'm going to see if I can get it back over that guy with the testbook tomorrow and leave it with him again to see what the testbook says about it. He wanted me to put those old injectors in before he did any more tests. (He was blaming the rich running in the ford injectors) So, it's ready for him now.

 

Pedro,

That is excellent advice, well stated. Something all of us could probably benefit from when attempting to troubleshoot a problem on these Beasts.

 

First a picture is worth a thousands words. Thank you for the videos.
Next to the injectors. The fuel injector is always hot and momentary grounded for firing (squirting).
There is a special light bulb that plugs in the harness for testing. I think it's called "neodinium bulb", no, scratch that, neodinium is a rare earth magnet. I'm having a senior moment... anyways, there is a special bulb especially for testing the injector harness. I've used it before and saved me a bunch of $. neadless to say, I can't find them, I'll have to buy some more.
Can you post a picture of the fouled plugs?
Post a video of the engine running with the intake off the filter box, I'm interested in the sound at the tailpipe.
At times my 99 D1 runs like yours, it eventually clear by itself. I also have Magnecor wires but covered with HT tubing. The exhaust is custom made from the Y pipe with larger bore and magneflow muffler.
At times there seems to be little power and at others it goes like a scolded monkey (and uses less fuel). The usual code is "#7 misfiring"
I use an OT-2 scanner to read the codes.

Don't get discouraged, many owners are learning from this post.
SD

 

Yes this thread and your videos are great. I think textbook will tell you what's up. Tell that damn grease monkey do what YOUR paying him to do.

 

NOID lights. They are awesome. I got a set fom Snap-on for work and a set from Harbor Freight for home. The set from Harbor Freight will have one that fits the LR harness. It flashes with each 12v signal from the ECM. I doubt your injectors are the problem. I think it is the exhaust. Get a exhaust back-pressure test done. There is such a thing as too large of an exhaust. An engine NEEDS some back pressure to run properly.

 

Here are what the plugs look like after a couple miles.



Notice, it all of them, and they are evenly fouled. I look at them and it tells me that something is telling the engine to over fuel across the boards. This set of plugs was with the original injectors in, but having the ford injectors in made no difference.

Times like this I wish It was it was a carburetor Simply adjust the the idle are screw and be done with it... even those twin holly 750's on that blown engine gave me less issue and I ran them for over 12 years...

 

Got it back to the rover shop yesterday. I'm done with it. I told him to fix it or sell it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_MGT_Volb6E