Plug Fouling 96 D1. All plugs.
#31
I just bought these for 34 bucks Ford Motorsport 19lb/hr...cleaned and tested :0. My landy is already butta smooth at idle, upgrading to these 4 hole injectors will be nice...atomizing the fuel even better..maybe gain a couple of mpg.
Now just FYI, my when I had my 4.6, i do remember the injectors making a more clicking sound than others
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...4#ht_500wt_698
just search ford injectors on ebay
Now just FYI, my when I had my 4.6, i do remember the injectors making a more clicking sound than others
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...4#ht_500wt_698
just search ford injectors on ebay
#32
I have to admit, I'm really interested into how these work on the 96. Thank you for that video it was really good and explained a lot. I'm fairly new to messing with injectors... Ok totally new... I'm a carb+blower type person. I can clearly see from the that video that even the injector set I just bought have a better pattern etc than the lucas. The Gen 3 seem to have a better atomization but I'm doubting a person would see much a difference between the 2 fords on a stock engine. If the engine was tuned up,had a nice cam better pistons and head work, I could see wanting to goto the gen 3.
I'm really leery of building up a disco engine, not for the engine but for the running gear. You can do some amazing stuff to the 215 but, I have a feeling it would simply grenade everything behind it pretty quickly. The upgrades I have done are more ascetics than performance, hell, 10 bucks says the Stock chipped ECU negates any actual performance increase in it's strive to return the engine to "normal"
The only real mod difference I would want to do with the current engine would be a new ECU and maybe a supercharger kit But your spending so much much time and money for a 25-30% increase in power that you might as well build up a bigger stronger engine from the start or just drop a 4.6 in and be done... Correct me if I'm wrong, but that's how I see it from all my reading. If I toast the current motor, I'm seriously looking at putting an MB Diesel in it's place over the 4.6, but that's a bridge I'll cross when I get there.
I'm really leery of building up a disco engine, not for the engine but for the running gear. You can do some amazing stuff to the 215 but, I have a feeling it would simply grenade everything behind it pretty quickly. The upgrades I have done are more ascetics than performance, hell, 10 bucks says the Stock chipped ECU negates any actual performance increase in it's strive to return the engine to "normal"
The only real mod difference I would want to do with the current engine would be a new ECU and maybe a supercharger kit But your spending so much much time and money for a 25-30% increase in power that you might as well build up a bigger stronger engine from the start or just drop a 4.6 in and be done... Correct me if I'm wrong, but that's how I see it from all my reading. If I toast the current motor, I'm seriously looking at putting an MB Diesel in it's place over the 4.6, but that's a bridge I'll cross when I get there.
#33
id love to get a diesel...but you can make the 4.0 a stout engine...this is def a step in the right direction.
Ive also deleted my pcv so I dont get oil mists inside my intake tract and have too much carbon build up either. Since the delete it starts amazing and idles perfect...i mean perfect...no hiccups or anything...i have 4ft of fuel line going from the engine to behind the headlight (there is an opening there) and i have a filter on it to make sure no grim gets inside that line...eventhough it does not matter since its just a dump line..The pcv in our landy are the worst design ever.
but for a 95 i think you need a different injectors since its odb1
Ive also deleted my pcv so I dont get oil mists inside my intake tract and have too much carbon build up either. Since the delete it starts amazing and idles perfect...i mean perfect...no hiccups or anything...i have 4ft of fuel line going from the engine to behind the headlight (there is an opening there) and i have a filter on it to make sure no grim gets inside that line...eventhough it does not matter since its just a dump line..The pcv in our landy are the worst design ever.
but for a 95 i think you need a different injectors since its odb1
Last edited by thehun; 12-13-2010 at 09:00 AM.
#34
Now that's a lot of thread...
After reading through the entire thread, admittedly not every word, I did not see anywhere that you tested the temp sensors for proper resistance ... Fuel temp and coolant temp sensors WILL cause the ecm to run rich if they are bad or out of range. Same with the MAF and its sensor voltage.
#36
After reading through the entire thread, admittedly not every word, I did not see anywhere that you tested the temp sensors for proper resistance ... Fuel temp and coolant temp sensors WILL cause the ecm to run rich if they are bad or out of range. Same with the MAF and its sensor voltage.
#37
cost benefit...
If you have a simple multimeter you can do all of it yourself. IF you are getting the hook up as a hook up (i.e. free or for a few beers to the owner of that testbook) then go for it.
If you don't have a multimeter then grab one. they will run you between $10 and $80 depending on how much you need to test.
One that measures ohm's, a/c volts and d/c volts is perfect for your needs and will be cheap.
http://www.amazon.com/b?ie=UTF8&node=15707471
this is a must have item.....
If you don't have a multimeter then grab one. they will run you between $10 and $80 depending on how much you need to test.
One that measures ohm's, a/c volts and d/c volts is perfect for your needs and will be cheap.
http://www.amazon.com/b?ie=UTF8&node=15707471
this is a must have item.....
Last edited by Cosmic88; 12-13-2010 at 10:57 AM.
#38
#39
If you have a simple multimeter you can do all of it yourself. IF you are getting the hook up as a hook up (i.e. free or for a few beers to the owner of that testbook) then go for it.
If you don't have a multimeter then grab one. they will run you between $10 and $80 depending on how much you need to test.
One that measures ohm's, a/c volts and d/c volts is perfect for your needs and will be cheap.
http://www.amazon.com/b?ie=UTF8&node=15707471
this is a must have item.....
If you don't have a multimeter then grab one. they will run you between $10 and $80 depending on how much you need to test.
One that measures ohm's, a/c volts and d/c volts is perfect for your needs and will be cheap.
http://www.amazon.com/b?ie=UTF8&node=15707471
this is a must have item.....