are those peeps know english? haha

 

Make sure this is for LHD vehicles before you spend your money.... I know the MB engines have a lot of crap on the left side. The filter location is a PITA too. I have worked on these engines. They are great when they run, and will do so for a while. If they start to go, it is heck to diagnose one..

 

Nope not going to stop telling people the truth and maybe save them a few bucks.
If you are getting a code for a bad past cat O2 then by all means replace it, otherwise no code no problem.
The pre-cat O2's are the only ones that control the air/fuel ratio.
As I already stated the REAR oxygen sensors on a OBDII car do NOTHING to the engine, their only function is to let you know if the catalytic converter(s) are not working.

 

Here is the exchange I've had with him so far...

Have 96 Landrover Discovery 4 speed auto. Would like to put MB diesel
in. Could I get a price with shipping to Rising Fawn GA, 30738 USA.
I'm on the fence as to which engine to use but I see you have 2 kits.
One for the OM617 and the 603(1987?) or is it a different 6 cylinder
engine? Any issue using a turbo version of either engine? Any Examples?

Thanks
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Hello.
I have kits for both OM617 and OM602 (5 cyl) and OM603 (6 cyl), but for
automatic only for the two last, OM602 and 603. You can also use OM606 (24
valves), and the engine in MB350 (I don't know the OM-name). They all have
the same hole pattern.
I must contact the Post Company for the freight price and come back to you.
Regards
SMT AB
Gösta Lindgren

Hello again.
Now I have all the costs. Price for the kit is SEK 4500:-, and the freight
is SEK 1055:-. The kit is for automatic gearbox, and includes adapter
between engine and gearbox, 4 engine mountings; two for the engine and two
for the chassis (you don't need to change anything in the chassis), an
adapter between the crankshaft and gearbox converter, and finally
instructions (for the moment only in Swedish, but if you buy a kit I
translate it to English). As I said before, you can use OM 602 (5 cyl),
OM603 (6 cyl), OM606 (6 cyl, 24 valves) and the 3,5 l engine in Mercedes
W126 ( I have heard that even that engine is called OM603, but 3.5 l)
You are welcome back if you have some more questions.
SMT AB
Gösta Lindgren
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Swedish Krona US Dollar Exchange
5555 Swedish Krona = 817 US Dollar

Sounds like a really good price. Do you know of any issues with the shift points of the automatic transmission? How about clearance for the oil pan? Again, this will be installed into a 1996 Discovery. As to the OM603, is there even enough room in the engine bay for a 6 cylinder engine? I have a 1987 300D with the 603 in it, and it seems rather long...

Thanks for the help!

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I have only mounted it in Range Rover, and there it is necessary to modify the crossbeam under the radiator. You can see in picture 004, that it is not much room for the engine. You also have to move the radiator a little forward.
I don’t know anything about the shift points. You can see in picture 001 how the bell house looks from the underside of the gearbox. Do you recognise that?
You must modify that one a little to make room to mount the converter when the engine is in place. I give you instructions about that in the kit.
More questions?
Regards
Gösta

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I have also been talking to another guy that is building a kit for the OM617 MB engine, His kit is fully complete "bolt in" and he claims it can be done over a weekend. But, the kit is not quite ready yet for sale. Plus it's going to be in the 3-4k range. But it also fixes the shift points in the auto transmission to match the shift points for the OM617... He picked it because its a plentiful engine thats dirt cheap and rock solid. Personally I would give up some speed for the increase in mileage alone...

I'm finding that parts for the MB engines tend to be much cheaper than rover engines and like rovers there is a wealth of information like the rover forums but for the MB's.

My 87 300D is a rocket... 0-60 times are around 9 seconds. (That's screaming for a diesel) I can pull a 5x10 homemade "think heavy" trailer with it. and I average 27 miles to the gallon. But even though he has the kit, I still think the 6 cyl engine is going to be to long to fit into the disco. So I'm leaning toward that old reliable OM617.

How serious am I about this? Well, the whole reason I even bought the 87 300D was to get a feel for the car and start learning more about the engines. Even though I knew that I would most likely be going for the older version of the engine. but, now, I like the car to much to tear it apart for it motor lol.

I do have a lead on another party that was trying the 6 cyl 603 in there disco and decided to change to the 617 mid stream. I'm waiting to find out the exact reasons why.

 

so how much is his kits exactly in usd

 

They will increase the fuel mixture to heat up the cats if they are not reading the right temperature. It is in the programming. Have you ever looked at a truck on a live ROVER scanner? You can see the mixture change when the rears are not in the pipe. It runs more rich.

It does not have as much effect on the ratio as the fronts, but it has an effect none the less. Tell people what you want, I just wish you had a disclaimer sometimes...

 

Total cost for the first kit shipped to my door in GA is 817 bucks. Of course the important part to me is the adapter for the trans. A modified iol pan is also nice, as it would save me having to have someone create it.


On my rover and this plug fouling thing. I talked to a rover specialist about it today. Use to be one of the head mechanics over at the Dealer in Chattanooga, now has his own shop and his own testbook. He said it was most likely one of 2 things causing this issue, Stuck injectors or valves. Both can throw the p1316 by itself.

The injector thing, well, I have that set coming and it should be here any day so I'll give that a shot. The Valves... I'm not really sure I'm willing to spend much more on a 180k 4.0 to fix that. He agrees that if this was the case and it was his own truck, he would be looking for at least a 4.6 and just do the swap. (He's also really interested in the MB swap since he works on them also.) Just the head work required would be about 300 bucks, not including labor etc and surprise! my valley pan now looks like it might not have sealed correctly as I just noticed a small trail of coolant down the center of it.

So It would be a case of redoing the heads, redoing the valley pan, putting in a new front seal... Hell, at that point might as well go all the way and just rebuild the whole motor... But then your left with a 4.0... I think the money would still be better spent on that 4.6 or one of the MB swaps.

IF and I say if loosely, the injectors do fix the issue, I'm still going to have to tear it down again and redo that valley pan. I don't understand why it didn't seal as I was meticulous in putting that together...

I guess I could also try sucking a couple liters of water into the intake while I have it revved up and steam clean the inside... might free up the carbon inside if that's the issue.. And it couldn't hurt.

 

If wishes were horse's beggars would ride.

 

What about adding a quart of kerosene to the oil? Wouldn't that help clean it out? and possible de carbon the exhaust valves enough to free them? maybe another additive? ATF?Just think off the top of my head here...

 

If you have a engine sludge problem then you have a couple of options.
You can add a bottle of Marvel Mystery Oil.
You can use a off the shelf engine flush.
Or you can flush it using diesel oil, which is not only cheap it is also highly detergent.
If you have a serious sludge problem you may be done for.
If the truck is drivable I would change the oil and use a diesel oil, then change the oil and filter again every 500 miles for the next 1500 miles.