Plug Fouling 96 D1. All plugs.
#81
Go get a simple digital multimeter at Lowes. I have a ruggediazed GreenLee that was like 30 bucks. All you need to do is read the resistance on the ohms function. It's not that hard to comprehend. Even for somebody from Georgia, hell I grew up in Griffin, just south of Atlanta.
At least you have the 300D to fall back on. I had an 86 420SEL and that was a totally awesome road car.
It sounds to me you have thrown an awful lot of money at it without checking the simple stuff.
Good luck with it.
At least you have the 300D to fall back on. I had an 86 420SEL and that was a totally awesome road car.
It sounds to me you have thrown an awful lot of money at it without checking the simple stuff.
Good luck with it.
#83
Go get a simple digital multimeter at Lowes. I have a ruggediazed GreenLee that was like 30 bucks. All you need to do is read the resistance on the ohms function. It's not that hard to comprehend. Even for somebody from Georgia, hell I grew up in Griffin, just south of Atlanta.
At least you have the 300D to fall back on. I had an 86 420SEL and that was a totally awesome road car.
It sounds to me you have thrown an awful lot of money at it without checking the simple stuff.
Good luck with it.
At least you have the 300D to fall back on. I had an 86 420SEL and that was a totally awesome road car.
It sounds to me you have thrown an awful lot of money at it without checking the simple stuff.
Good luck with it.
Ya, the 300D is a much better engine than the rovers. Easy to work on, no damn computers or sensors to screw up. 250k and it just runs and runs. Plus gets 27MPG while pulling a full sized sedan around. Plus it pulls my 5x10 trailer like it's not even back there.
The stuff I have fixed IS the easy stuff to me. I'm not a mechanic and do everything I can via the information I get from the forums and the Rave. That said, I don't have the specialized tools required to to a lot of the tests needed. But, I can turn a wrench all day for free. And I have only replaced stuff that "could" have been the issue and was cheap and easy to fix, like the injectors (35 bucks for the whole set) the plugs and wires (the magnacors where not cheap....)
I say the engine is toast for a simple reason, it not going to take much wrong with it for it to be cheaper to just put a different engine in and be done with it. If that's the case I have to figure out if I should go with another rover engine and be able to use some of the new stuff I have bought for the truck, but still be hampered buy the total reliance on that test book to get anything fixed. Or dealing with all the sensors that cost more than the actual truck to replace.
Or just eat the losses and go with a reliable engine.
The engine in it has 180k on it. and that just about the max miles on normal rover engines. Sure, there are rover engines out there with double that, but it's and exception not a rule and those engine are in trucks who's owners know how to completely tear down and rebuild the engines themselves over the weekend and have to tools to do so and usually access to a test book.
You know how much a brand new water pump for a MB 603 costs? 82 bucks to my door including all the required seals and o rings. 180 bucks for the discovery. Power steering, 603=192 4.0=364 Alternator 603=177 4.0=300+
Just saying... it does not take long before the inflated 4.0 prices for parts exceeds the engines value.
I'll know more this coming week when the rover specialist the trucks sitting at gets back with me as to what he finds. He's doing a compression check, and going to have to fluids tested to see if there are any fluids where there should not be. Again, I'm at the mercy of a specialty shop (read specialty prices). He knows not to do anything to fix the engine until I see a full report of what the issue may be and that the engine is slated for the chopping block if there is any more wrong with it than a simple sensor error. heads, slipped liner etc, in my book it's toast and worth more as scrap aluminum. Now, I KNOW that I'll get crap for pulling the engine out due to head gaskets... But that would be way beyond my skill set. Sure, there are guys here that could do in over the weekend for 225 in parts... But if mine are bad, I have to assume it's due to the truck overheating with the PO. I assume this since the thermostat was totally frozen on the truck when I got it, and it overheated on me in the first 5 miles I limped it home. That means The heads would have to get reworked. and that's expensive. Same goes for the other issue it may be, stuck valves.
I can not believe that a simple thermostat sensor failing would richen the truck up to a point where it's using 20 gallons of fuel in 50 miles while throwing no codes other than p1316.
#84
Maintenance is the message...
.... I don't have the specialized tools required to to a lot of the tests needed. But, I can turn a wrench all day for free. And I have only replaced stuff that "could" have been the issue and was cheap and easy to fix, like the injectors (35 bucks for the whole set) the plugs and wires (the magnacors where not cheap....)
.... Or dealing with all the sensors that cost more than the actual truck to replace.
....The engine in it has 180k on it. and that just about the max miles on normal rover engines. Sure, there are rover engines out there with double that, but it's and exception not a rule and those engine are in trucks who's owners know how to completely tear down and rebuild the engines themselves over the weekend and have to tools to do so and usually access to a test book....
....I can not believe that a simple thermostat sensor failing would richen the truck up to a point where it's using 20 gallons of fuel in 50 miles while throwing no codes other than p1316.
.... Or dealing with all the sensors that cost more than the actual truck to replace.
....The engine in it has 180k on it. and that just about the max miles on normal rover engines. Sure, there are rover engines out there with double that, but it's and exception not a rule and those engine are in trucks who's owners know how to completely tear down and rebuild the engines themselves over the weekend and have to tools to do so and usually access to a test book....
....I can not believe that a simple thermostat sensor failing would richen the truck up to a point where it's using 20 gallons of fuel in 50 miles while throwing no codes other than p1316.
I just think it's a shame you are not confident in you ability to use the multimeter to diagnose the symptoms your engine is showing you along with the codes which are merely meant to guide you in a particular direction and not to pinpoint the exact fault. You absolutely do not need testbook or some other specialized scanner to find sensor values. Those tools make it FAR easier naturally but with a $10k pricetag. Your simple multimeter is totally capable of measuring voltage and resistance of all sensors, connections and the harness. You can do it easily!
As for sensors being VERY expensive... not really. The temp sensors are 12 to 25 bucks... Used working MAF's can be found for $100... O2's can be found for about $70 and those last for 100k miles easy... MY point is, these trucks can be maintanined and repaired for cheap. IF you can learn to do the work yourself correctly and find good replacement alternatives. (Looking forward to Tom's extensive list)
AND these engines can be reliable (excluding certain KNOWN trouble years) IF they are properly maintained. That was the problem with LR for a long time, MANY of the people who were buying them initially did NOT maintain them. THis is why so many CDL / Hi Lo levers need repair... they were never used! This is why so many have engine and mechanical issues... Driven through some "Jiffy-Quick Lube" for an oil change at best and that was the total extent of maintenance... Poor if ANY service. So many of the stories you see on these forums tell of horror stories so the rep is bad. There are so many more trucks out there running just fine. If we posted up here everyday, "my truck is running just fine and has no codes" the thread would have 1 or 2 replies and go no where and be of no assistance to anyone.
I guarantee you the MB's that go on for 300k or 500k are the minority and they lasted that long because they were, again, correctly maintained. You can't run crap fuel and not change fluids in any engine and expect it to last forever. Granted the MB 603 engines are lower maintenance and a more solid design but the total cost to switch over seems to outweigh the benefits in this case.
Finally, yes, the coolant temp sensor WILL cause the ECM to run rich. This is the sensor that tells the ECM when the engine is warming up thus calling for different fueling mix coupled with info from the O2's, MAF, etc...
If the ECM never "thinks" the engine is warm it will continue to default to the cold startup mix which is rich then the O2's see the overfueling and throw the code.
ANYwhoo.... IF you finally decide to throw in the towel on the Rover engine I for one will be glued to your MB 603 Engine Conversion Thread! Good luck and just give the multimeter a try... you just might be able to save some big bucks.
Last edited by Cosmic88; 12-27-2010 at 11:10 AM.
#85
I get the impression you have already given up on the 4.0 in your mind... that's ok since you are the owner and can do whatever you damn well please with your rig AND you have a 603 "ready to go" ( even though the conversion will be pricey and filled with other "issues" that come naturally to a major conversion of that nature).
I just think it's a shame you are not confident in you ability to use the multimeter to diagnose the symptoms your engine is showing you along with the codes which are merely meant to guide you in a particular direction and not to pinpoint the exact fault. You absolutely do not need testbook or some other specialized scanner to find sensor values. Those tools make it FAR easier naturally but with a $10k pricetag. Your simple multimeter is totally capable of measuring voltage and resistance of all sensors, connections and the harness. You can do it easily!
As for sensors being VERY expensive... not really. The temp sensors are 12 to 25 bucks... Used working MAF's can be found for $100... O2's can be found for about $70 and those last for 100k miles easy... MY point is, these trucks can be maintanined and repaired for cheap. IF you can learn to do the work yourself correctly and find good replacement alternatives. (Looking forward to Tom's extensive list)
AND these engines can be reliable (excluding certain KNOWN trouble years) IF they are properly maintained. That was the problem with LR for a long time, MANY of the people who were buying them initially did NOT maintain them. THis is why so many CDL / Hi Lo levers need repair... they were never used! This is why so many have engine and mechanical issues... Driven through some "Jiffy-Quick Lube" for an oil change at best and that was the total extent of maintenance... Poor if ANY service. So many of the stories you see on these forums tell of horror stories so the rep is bad. There are so many more trucks out there running just fine. If we posted up here everyday, "my truck is running just fine and has no codes" the thread would have 1 or 2 replies and go no where and be of no assistance to anyone.
I guarantee you the MB's that go on for 300k or 500k are the minority and they lasted that long because they were, again, correctly maintained. You can't run crap fuel and not change fluids in any engine and expect it to last forever. Granted the MB 603 engines are lower maintenance and a more solid design but the total cost to switch over seems to outweigh the benefits in this case.
Finally, yes, the coolant temp sensor WILL cause the ECM to run rich. This is the sensor that tells the ECM when the engine is warming up thus calling for different fueling mix coupled with info from the O2's, MAF, etc...
If the ECM never "thinks" the engine is warm it will continue to default to the startup mix which is rich then the O2's see the overfueling and throw the code.
ANYwhoo.... IF you finally decide to throw in the towel on the Rover engine I for one will be glued to your MB 603 Engine Conversion Thread! Good luck and just give the multimeter a try... you just might be able to save some big bucks.
I just think it's a shame you are not confident in you ability to use the multimeter to diagnose the symptoms your engine is showing you along with the codes which are merely meant to guide you in a particular direction and not to pinpoint the exact fault. You absolutely do not need testbook or some other specialized scanner to find sensor values. Those tools make it FAR easier naturally but with a $10k pricetag. Your simple multimeter is totally capable of measuring voltage and resistance of all sensors, connections and the harness. You can do it easily!
As for sensors being VERY expensive... not really. The temp sensors are 12 to 25 bucks... Used working MAF's can be found for $100... O2's can be found for about $70 and those last for 100k miles easy... MY point is, these trucks can be maintanined and repaired for cheap. IF you can learn to do the work yourself correctly and find good replacement alternatives. (Looking forward to Tom's extensive list)
AND these engines can be reliable (excluding certain KNOWN trouble years) IF they are properly maintained. That was the problem with LR for a long time, MANY of the people who were buying them initially did NOT maintain them. THis is why so many CDL / Hi Lo levers need repair... they were never used! This is why so many have engine and mechanical issues... Driven through some "Jiffy-Quick Lube" for an oil change at best and that was the total extent of maintenance... Poor if ANY service. So many of the stories you see on these forums tell of horror stories so the rep is bad. There are so many more trucks out there running just fine. If we posted up here everyday, "my truck is running just fine and has no codes" the thread would have 1 or 2 replies and go no where and be of no assistance to anyone.
I guarantee you the MB's that go on for 300k or 500k are the minority and they lasted that long because they were, again, correctly maintained. You can't run crap fuel and not change fluids in any engine and expect it to last forever. Granted the MB 603 engines are lower maintenance and a more solid design but the total cost to switch over seems to outweigh the benefits in this case.
Finally, yes, the coolant temp sensor WILL cause the ECM to run rich. This is the sensor that tells the ECM when the engine is warming up thus calling for different fueling mix coupled with info from the O2's, MAF, etc...
If the ECM never "thinks" the engine is warm it will continue to default to the startup mix which is rich then the O2's see the overfueling and throw the code.
ANYwhoo.... IF you finally decide to throw in the towel on the Rover engine I for one will be glued to your MB 603 Engine Conversion Thread! Good luck and just give the multimeter a try... you just might be able to save some big bucks.
also that benz motor is a beast and if you can make it work under 1500 bucks or so...i think its a golden ticket
Last edited by thehun; 12-26-2010 at 10:25 AM.
#87
Nope, I'll strip it for the aluminum scrap if thats the case. I have a 85 Renault Turbo diesel that's pulled and am stripping as well. Aluminum is worth to much to just junk. (70-80 cents per pound around here.) Which is again why I say the 4.0 is worth more as scrap.
#88
i agree..maintaince is the key to any motor to fail or last...i have seen bulletproof motors go before they reach 20k miles because no maintaince was done to it.
also that benz motor is a beast and if you can make it work under 1500 bucks or so...i think its a golden ticket
also that benz motor is a beast and if you can make it work under 1500 bucks or so...i think its a golden ticket
The adapter to the trans plus other parts is around 800 bucks shipped to my door. I still think the total conversion could be done for about 3k including the price of the engine.
#89
HAHA!
Nope, I'll strip it for the aluminum scrap if thats the case. I have a 85 Renault Turbo diesel that's pulled and am stripping as well. Aluminum is worth to much to just junk. (70-80 cents per pound around here.) Which is again why I say the 4.0 is worth more as scrap.
Nope, I'll strip it for the aluminum scrap if thats the case. I have a 85 Renault Turbo diesel that's pulled and am stripping as well. Aluminum is worth to much to just junk. (70-80 cents per pound around here.) Which is again why I say the 4.0 is worth more as scrap.
Don't you know sarcasm when you hear it?
The engine is worth something to us Rover guys, especially when there's nothing wrong with it, which is what I'm betting. Don't scrap it!