Hi All, I have a 1999 Disco I SD and have a ridiculously fast leak of power steering fluid and radiator fluid.

looks like the power steering fluid is coming from the top of the pump. Don't know if it's a bad.seal or.what. can I epoxy it with JB Weld?? LoL. If I need a new pump anyway then maybe I don't have much to lose.







Same question for radiator leak..

 

Hello,
I've been there before, first thing is to get everything cleaned up so you can see where the leaks are coming from. Use some engine degreaser or something. Once everything is cleaned up make sure all your clamps and nuts are on tight.

Could be the reservoir clamp that became loose.
Is the radiator leak coming from the hose or that nut? Feel under the hose to see if the leak is on the underside. Squeeze the hose and see if that increases the leak flow.
Make sure not to burn yourself. Have car not running when doing this because you are in close proximity to moving parts etc.

Remember our trucks use the ATF red transmission fluid as power steering. Red stuff only!
You running the red stuff?
As a side note Lucas Transmission Leak Fix helped with my power steering leak a few weeks ago. If you need to go that route remember to get the Lucas Transmission Leak Fix and not the Lucas Power Steering Leak Fix. This came recommended by several forum members with much knowledge on these trucks.

Start there and report your findings.
Putting down cardboard can help troubleshoot leak location.

 

thank you so.much!! I forgot about the ATF. I was using regular clear power steering fluid. But thank God I was using that because I would have had property owners pretty pissed with me leaking red all.over their parking lots LOL..

UPDATE-- i found the leak! Did as you said with wiping everything off and saw it leaking from under a nut that was loose!! I just had that steering box replaced a couple.of years ago. They must not have tightened it all the way. I had a slow leak ever since it was replaced.and it got progressively worse. I had to move the hose out of the way and then noticed that nut there. I put my hand on it and it was loose. Tighened it up and no more leaks. At least 90% of the leak is resolved I think.

But now that I have that done. how will I drain it to put the ATF in there? Or should I just mix in the ATF until it takes over?

I'm still diagnosing the radiator issue. I'll keep you posted.

 

Congrats!

Get yourself a turkey baster and get as much of the power steering fluid out. Though it is working now, the pump will eventually be at a greater risk of failing so it is important to have the correct fluid installed.

Get a sharpie and write on the inside hood to only use ATF automatic transmission fluid. While that sharpie is still in your hand draw a picture of how the serpentine belt is routed. Or write these things down and help in the glove box.

 

Re: the coolant leak, it looks like the hose clamp is too long and over tightened.
Most likely the worm gear is digging into the upper rad hose and causing the leak.

If so, replace the upper rad hose and get 2 quality clamps that are made for silicone hoses.
Those have a smooth liner that protects the hose from getting boogered.
Norma/ABA Group are great clamps but there are MANY others like Gates, etc. Just avoid the cheap-o Home Depot crap.

While you are replacing the rad hose replace the thermostat at the same time ( I like to spend your $ )
IMHO I'd just replace all the coolant hoses.

 

The turkey baster method will get the reservoir mostly emptied, then put a large pan (or at minimum a lot of cardboard) under the steering box and loosen that nut up again, perhaps even further. Start the truck, turn the wheel back and forth and the fluid will leak out once again. Make sure not to let the reservoir empty during this.

 

Or to get all the old PS Fluid out with zero mess....

Get approx. 2' length SIZE: 3/8" OD X 1/4" ID of Clear Vinyl Hose from any HD, Hardware Store and use the Bleeder Screw on the top if the box.

Put the hose in a catch pan/bucket and the other end on the bleeder screw.
START the truck...THEN open the bleeder SLOWLY!
Open the bleeder just enough to get a controllable flow of ATF (like bleeding a brake caliper).

Keep the RESERVIOR FULL with new happy ATF and FLUSH the
It will take no longer than 10 minutes tops to flush and then finally bleed air from the system.