I bought a '95 Disco (manual transmission) without being able to get it in gear. Long story short, I've changed the master and slave, bled and bled and bled some more with no effect; even with solid clutch pedal feel. I inspected the push rod and lever inside the transmission, nothing out of the ordinary. So tonight I rigged up a way to depress the push rod in place of the slave cylinder just to try to engage the clutch. I was able to depress it sufficiently; nearly all the way - no joy (that was certainly disappointing!).Looks like I may have to pull the transmission because something is obviously not right. This will be a one man job at home, outside, gravel driveway. Ramps or not? I'll have to get at least a trans jack. Any pointers on the R&R of the transmission? Anything else I need to try before actually going through the hassle of pulling the transmission? Linkages? Trans just won't go into gear when you mash the pedal down. The disco does move ever so slightly when you try to put it in gear.TIA...

 

Before completely removing Trans. just separate it enough to reach up in and pull the t/o bearing. Things have a plastic housing and melt. No to the ramps, keeping things as low as possible, in case things go sideways. Don't do it on the gravel! Get plywood, there's no way to maneuver the the Trans. jack by ones self. There's a special bracket to make yourself (check the r380 rave). I've never used one but, I plan to put one together after pulling mine several times without it. Just way to much weight to be messing around with by yourself and if you plan on keeping the truck...you'll need it. Tell everyone what town you're in, might have someone to help that's near (never know)

 

Just seen you have a scope. Point it over in the direction of the throw out bearing and check it for deformity. If it turns out to be your problem, I think it's AB that has an after market all metal one. Hope it's your problem...it can be done without dropping everything.

 

Not to hyjack but transmission removal in general...do you guys remove the T-case first or pull it as one unit? I pulled it as a unit out if my RRC parts truck and it was almost impossible to handle as a unit.

 

Thanks, all good suggestions! Yes, I was planning on using some plywood - my gravel is pretty beat down in that spot anyway so it's pretty firm and flat which should help. I can't imagine why they'd use plastic anywhere near a T/O bearing. I'll check into the bracket and how it's fashioned; I've also read about using an engine hoist through the shifter opening to help out as well.

 

I'm hoping it's something like the T/O bearing that's the problem. I tried looking that way last night but wasn't able to see that far with the scope. I'll give it another go over the weekend. It briefly crossed my mind to drill a strategic camera access hole somewhere in the bell housing to see it from that side which is a straight shot in. The camera is no bigger in diameter than a pencil.

It almost seems as easy to just pull the engine out...?

 

By the way, the clutch seems fine because I can use the starter to get going. Once I'm going, I'm going - able to drive around just fine. No funny sounds or smells and it seems to grab just fine. The only problem is I can't switch gears, or use the clutch to decouple the engine and the transmission - which is obviously a problem.

 

You're right in pulling the engine, It's what I will do the next time. I would also do the top end while it's out. Would have suggested it to begin with but, didn't know how deep you wanted to go with it. Engine hoist is much safer than fiddle farting underneath (for sure). Output shaft will need a close inspection too, some earlier r380's it was a weak point (oiling issues) check your suffix and go to ashcroft site for more info.

 

I hate to think of pulling another engine as I just did it last year on my son's BMW. As for the Disco - I just bought it - but the previous owner did say that the heads were done 30k ago, and is evidenced by the fact they look freshly painted; which I know is the true test for telling the condition of something (hint: sarcasm). All kidding aside, the engine really does sounds great. He also said that the transmission was rebuilt about the same time as the heads were done. The S/N on the transmission is '53A.0441603J' which should be one of the newer R380s based on when I had to order the slave cylinder; hopefully that's a plus. One good thing about pulling the engine is I don't have to lay on my back for 3 days. I doubt it, but I'll ask anyway - Does the radiator support unbolt? I've got a 2 or 3 inch lift and larger than stock tires so clearing the radiator support might be an issue for my hoist. On the other hand, if the transmission needs to be repaired (which I hope it doesn't - fingers crossed) then I'll have to drop the transmission down anyway. So many choices...

 

Found this in the bell housing. Bits of friction material and some rubber pieces; there's more still inside. I suspect the clutch has self destructed. Thoughts?