Proper replacement fuel pump
#23
What are fuel injection clamps? Squeeze clamps?
These are the kind I use at work: https://www.belmetric.com/chp80-p-91...2&cPath=15_142
These are the kind I use at work: https://www.belmetric.com/chp80-p-91...2&cPath=15_142
Last edited by jasonrusso; 04-24-2011 at 08:28 PM. Reason: Adding
#25
Fuel Pump Replacement
Hi guys. I just did this last weekend, so I thought I would chime in. I bought the Airtex E3270 pump from Advance Auto for about $85. It's for a '96 Chevy Impala SS V8. It's supposed to be guarunteed for life, but I guess that's if you put it in a Chevy. You get the pump only. I pulled the assembly out of the tank (not a bad job, except for rusty screws), and disassembled it carefully and put the new pump in place of the old one. It's not that bad, you just need to be careful to get the strainer sock off the old and on the new pump. The electrical plug is exactly the same. The fuel line that goes from the pump nipple to the inside of the exit pipe has to be high pressure - the old one is put in with single use clamps, so you have to cut that off. The clamps need to be fuel injectin clamps. I grabbed some fuel line I had in the garage and used it and it almost immediately popped and I had pull it back out to replace it with good stuff - rated to 130 PSI. I did the filter too. The filter was probably the cause of the whole mess and the ironic thing is I've had the filter sitting in the garage for a couple of years. I could not blow through the old filter. New one, no problem. Of course rust on a 15 year-old truck is going to be rough. This was the original fuel filter, I'm sure. I soaked the joints with PB Blaster and eventually broke both ends loose - be careful - there are little o-rings on the filter "nipples". I lost one and fortunately, stopped trying to fix the leak by tightening the connections before I ruined anything and took the new filter back out and realized my mistake. The filter will leak without good o-rings. I never thought my fuel filter would be clogged, I always put quality premium fuel in the truck. It would have saved me a long tow if I had changed that fuel filter a while ago. Hope this helps !
#27
Well, I changed the fuel pump and filter about 3 weeks ago. The results have been odd. Sometimes I still have the extended crank, sometimes I don't. I let it sit for a week while I was in Germany and it fired right up. Today, I went into the store for a couple minutes and I had the extended crank 7-10 seconds. Any ideas?
#28
Hi guys- I wanted to second this post- I just did my fuel pump with the E3270 from advance auto too. Just remember to buy an extra foot of fuel line (they only give you about 2" with the pump). And +1 on the high pressure hose clamps. Everything comes apart easily and clips right back in. I stuffed the aftermarket sock filter they sold me into the OE assembly because the original sock was pretty beat up.
And to think the cheapest drop in fuel pump is $300. $630 from the dealer.
I was able to do a fuel pump and filter for under $100.
And to think the cheapest drop in fuel pump is $300. $630 from the dealer.
I was able to do a fuel pump and filter for under $100.
Hi guys. I just did this last weekend, so I thought I would chime in. I bought the Airtex E3270 pump from Advance Auto for about $85. It's for a '96 Chevy Impala SS V8. It's supposed to be guarunteed for life, but I guess that's if you put it in a Chevy. You get the pump only. I pulled the assembly out of the tank (not a bad job, except for rusty screws), and disassembled it carefully and put the new pump in place of the old one. It's not that bad, you just need to be careful to get the strainer sock off the old and on the new pump. The electrical plug is exactly the same. The fuel line that goes from the pump nipple to the inside of the exit pipe has to be high pressure - the old one is put in with single use clamps, so you have to cut that off. The clamps need to be fuel injectin clamps. I grabbed some fuel line I had in the garage and used it and it almost immediately popped and I had pull it back out to replace it with good stuff - rated to 130 PSI. I did the filter too. The filter was probably the cause of the whole mess and the ironic thing is I've had the filter sitting in the garage for a couple of years. I could not blow through the old filter. New one, no problem. Of course rust on a 15 year-old truck is going to be rough. This was the original fuel filter, I'm sure. I soaked the joints with PB Blaster and eventually broke both ends loose - be careful - there are little o-rings on the filter "nipples". I lost one and fortunately, stopped trying to fix the leak by tightening the connections before I ruined anything and took the new filter back out and realized my mistake. The filter will leak without good o-rings. I never thought my fuel filter would be clogged, I always put quality premium fuel in the truck. It would have saved me a long tow if I had changed that fuel filter a while ago. Hope this helps !
#29
This was on a 1997 Discovery SD V8i.
Hi guys- I wanted to second this post- I just did my fuel pump with the E3270 from advance auto too. Just remember to buy an extra foot of fuel line (they only give you about 2" with the pump). And +1 on the high pressure hose clamps. Everything comes apart easily and clips right back in. I stuffed the aftermarket sock filter they sold me into the OE assembly because the original sock was pretty beat up.
And to think the cheapest drop in fuel pump is $300. $630 from the dealer.
I was able to do a fuel pump and filter for under $100.
And to think the cheapest drop in fuel pump is $300. $630 from the dealer.
I was able to do a fuel pump and filter for under $100.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Travelor
Discovery I
4
09-24-2015 06:11 PM
JumPeR04
Retired - Private For Sale/Trade Classifieds
5
04-07-2011 09:52 PM
03RRDude
General Range Rover Discussion - Archived
1
10-26-2009 07:18 PM