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  #1  
Old 01-25-2011, 08:15 PM
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Default radio installation

does anyone offer a D1 installation kit for car stereos?
 
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Old 01-26-2011, 07:48 AM
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what do you mean by "install kit"? there is no dash kit but there is a trim piece you can buy that will help flush it up and make it look a little cleaner that part number is 89-9400 (metra part number), wiring harness is 70-1786 (metra part number) most shops won't have these parts but any shop that sells Metra should be able to order these for you, Metras lookup numbers may be different so tell them you want these parts.

on a side note this harness is for amplified systems, I see you have a 95 so you may want to be sure you need the amplified harness.
 

Last edited by Rover Chris; 01-26-2011 at 07:52 AM.
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Old 01-26-2011, 08:06 PM
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awesome. yeah, I have the amp in my rear door.

thanks!
 
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Old 01-26-2011, 09:49 PM
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the amp in the rear door is the sub amp, your other speakers have a seperate amp up front.
 
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Old 01-26-2011, 10:01 PM
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I was planning on working on this but school and priorities came up. Rover Chris I still haven't checked those things you sent me in a PM awhile back. Once I can I will tell you how it goes. But how about just a big rewire? Can I not use the pre-existing holes in the firewall for the power line, and any metal piece for the ground. Then re-wire the speaker wires to the head unit? I don't have an amp yet or any subs but all I want right now is a working head unit 24/7 and all 4 speakers to work at one time. I can get the wiring harness and just use a wiring diagram to place the right wires in the appropriate slots right? Or am I just being a know it all teen and sounding a little to high horsed right now?

Side note: is a new antennae hard to install? Don't I just attach the new wire to the old and pull it through? It's how I did it with my old acura but hmm..could be different right?
 
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Old 01-27-2011, 07:29 AM
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Calebbo, if all you want is a deck and 4 (your basic car setup) then a rewire is an easy way to go, you don't need to run power and ground for the radio as that is already at the back of the stock radio(stock ground is weak, you may want to add a stronger one), the speaker wires however are not, basically you have RCA cables at the back of the radio without the plugs on the end, and that wont work for wiring up what you want. You will need to run new speaker wires at least to the stock amp, or wire those factory RCA cables (without the plugs) to your aftermarket RCA jacks(however that can introduce noise if they are not shielded properly). $10-15 at Walmart for a small spool of speaker wire and a roll of electrical tape, and an afternoon to run and connect the wires and you will be good to go. it will give you better sound (minus the sub) and you won't have to worry about the factory amp failing on you.

as for the antenna I am not sure about your truck, but my truck has whats called a diversity antenna, which basically means it is in the glass (similar to the thin wires of a rear defrost in a vehicles rear window) so for my truck no replacing it is not really an option however adding a new one may work, they make some that just stick on the windshield that work ok. problem is with my truck they have 2 antennas(am and fm separately) so I can only get FM radio, I may try to combine the 2 signals in the future to try to get AM but that is so far down on my priority list that it probably won't happen.
 
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Old 01-27-2011, 08:27 AM
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I mean, it's not priority but I would really like to have it done. My head unit now turns on and off at bumps. The speakers work, and don't, whenever they want. And I can't get any really good signal and I blame it on the missing antennae. I just want to know how they normally hide the wires and what do I need to take off to see them? I dislike having to "follow" the wires because I always end up taking off pieces that I don't need, loosing a bolt or screw, or something. And yeah I just want to run a basic car set up right now. Just some music to pass the drive time, a sub and amp can come later. Now what is this amp that already is in the Rover? I heard I cannot use it with any other head unit because it causes static. So wait speaker wires with an open end on one side and RCA on the other? Or just wire?

So overall:
New power from battery to head unit
New ground from batter to head unit
New speaker wires
Right?
 

Last edited by calebbo; 01-27-2011 at 08:37 AM.
  #8  
Old 01-27-2011, 10:11 AM
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my truck (and most D1's to the best of my knowledge) have 2 factory amps, 1 is the sub amp in the sub assembly mounted to the cargo door, and the other is a 4 channel amp mounted either high in the passenger kick panel (that's where most are) or under the drivers seat (I think in some of the older models and I think some of the last models, but not sure) you have 3 choices of how to deal with this, option 1 is an amp integration harness metra part number 70-1786 (this will require your aftermarket radio to have front and rear low level/RCA outputs, total of 4). This is how 99.9% of shops will do a "standard install".



option 2 is a device called a line level converter this option is very similar to option 1 except it uses your speaker wire to convert the signal to low level/rca, this can actually be used with option 1 if you don't have 4 RCA outputs on your aftermarket deck (best buy would sell you this item and charge you to install it in this case), but can also be wired directly to the factory radio harness in place of the Metra harness as shown above(a little more work involved).



option 3 is a rewire and basically you would need to find the factory 4 channel amp, locate the 8 output wires going to the 4 speakers, and run new wires from those 8 wires to the 8 speaker wires on the back of the aftermarket radio. basically replacing the factory RCA wires with new speaker wires and "jumping" them across the amp to bypass it. This is the most difficult option but I often suggest it if there is any possibility the stock amp is not working, and IMHO it sounds the best.

This diagram is exactly how are trucks are wired (color codes, fuses,etc. are different as this is not a rover diagram), you see 5 wires running between the radio and the amp labeled common,rf,lf,rr,lr. you cannot wire the 8 wires from your aftermarket radio using these wires, however there are 8 wires coming off the bottom of the amp going to the 4 speakers, in a rewire you are replacing the 5 wires with 8 new wires (4 sets of 2) and instead of going to the same location you just go to the bottom of the amp and wire them directly to the amplifier output speaker wires.


as for the antenna, if it is a mast style antenna you can use a universal replacement but if it is in the 2 back windows (little wires like defrost on the side windows of the cargo area) then you will need to get a windshield mount antenna like this one.


they do make a European antenna adapter that will work for most of us part number is metra 40-VW12
 
Attached Thumbnails radio installation-ampdiagram.jpg   radio installation-met-701786.jpg   radio installation-slc4.jpg   radio installation-antenna.jpg  

Last edited by Rover Chris; 01-27-2011 at 10:33 AM.
  #9  
Old 01-27-2011, 10:27 AM
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hope that helps. also forgot to mention, options 1 and 2 will require you too turn on the amp. this is done by connecting the blue/white wire on the back of your aftermarket radio to the remote wire on the factory ISO connectors (I think it is red/blue but I am not sure)
 
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Old 01-27-2011, 10:47 AM
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Just To Clarify

Using the Amp:
1. 5 Speaker Wires from Stereo to Amp
2. Change those with speaker wires
3. 8 speaker wires from Amp to Speakers
4. Change those 8 with speaker wires

Without using the Amp:
1. 5 speaker wires from the stereo
2. Replace 4 wires (FR,FL,RR,RL) with the RCA wire and each RCA wire can be split into +/- for each speaker
3. What do I use for the common?
 


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