Hey Fellas, I was hoping to get your input/tips and tricks on how you guys installed/converted your rear drive shafts from Rotoflex to U-joint. My Rotoflex is tired and has started to wear. I figure it's better bang for my buck to convert to u-joint, especially considering I will be installing 2' MD terrafirma springs and terra pro sports 2+ shocks. Do you guys suggest driving the disco up on ramps in the rear to get to the shaft? Are there areas that I should clean and re-grease? I've never done any work with shafts etc only greased them so any input would be greatly appreciated on how to do this job right and with as must ease as possible.

 

Easiest swap is to use the tailshaft and flange from an early RRC or pre 94 discovery. The flange also requires a spacer that sits behind it so make sure you get this if you source from a wreck.
Removing the roto-flex spigot will require a puller made up of some tube,steel plate or thick washer and a suitable bolt with i think an M8 thread.

 

Thanks rangie, I sourced a used driveshaft with good joints and a Spanking new flange. Is the spacer a must? I'm only putting on about 2 inches? I'll take a picture of the rearshaft at some point tomorrow.

 

Soo.. this is where I'm at... removing the Centralizing peg. This part, I have to admit, is a robust foe. I think the blokes at the factory went locktite crazy on this thing. I have tried making a puller from a large socket, washer, and 8 125 bolt with little success. Having said that, I am terrified of breaking the bolt in the peg. Next step (tomorrow AM, after these beers wear off), make a sliding hammer and heat the hell out of the peg and bang it out. Aside from that I don't know what the hell else to do, except repeat and pray to rover gods.

 

A piece of tube with a thick washer and bolt and it will pull out, yes you need the spacer so you get the correct bearing pre-load once done up.

 

" I have tried making a puller from a large socket, washer, and 8 125 bolt with little success. Having said that, I am terrified of breaking the bolt in the peg."


Unless I'm reading that wrong, you are missing one part. You have the socket, bolt, and washer... you need a NUT between the washer and the head of the bolt. Put a little grease/oil between the nut and the washer. Use grade 5 or 8 for the bolt if you are worried about breaking something(won't happen). And use a propane torch to heat the peg to break the Loctite.


IDK if you have seen this, but here you go>>

 

You dont need a nut but its just a slightly different way of achieving the same outcome.

 

Hey Guys thanks for the input and support. So today has been a success, but definitely a wide range of frustration with this centralizing peg. I made a sliding hammer with some huge washers, big socket etc. I'll nab a pic tom. I also heated the living hell out of the thing. I thought Lord Sauron was going to emerge demanding for his damn ring back it was so hot. The heat and sliding hammer were a bust. Threading in an 8M 125 bolt through a washer and socket was a bust as well (broke the bolt, and thankfully got it out...).

Eventually I got the bugger out with a combination of heat and a puller I created (as seen in the photo's). Both worked magnificently, I know it's late and I will update tomorrow, if there's any questions, but I essentially created my own version of the 'Land rover tool 51-008' (last picture, stupid, worth $200 odd dollars or something) with a 1 13/16 socket and a 8M puller tool with the same thread that I rented for free ('OEMTools' 77031-A).

 

I made a simpler tool for about a 100mm length of 50mm SHS tube with a piece of 4mm plate welded on top, drilled a 10mm hole and used a M8 bolt with a thick washer.
I was lucky with mine and it came out easily but when we put an ARB locker in my mates D2 with an early D1 uni shaft it broke my tool and we had to scrounge something to replace the plate i welded on.