rear passenger window controls
#1
rear passenger window controls
i have looked at this issue and cant quite figure out what is going on.the window doesnt work but at the centre console switches there is 12v at both sides of the switch, theres continuity to the motor both sides and the switch at the console is good as swapped it for the other side with no problems on the other window.
the only thing i have seen is that the switch opens continuity when pressed even on the door (presumed to stop the window opening and closing at same time) and the 12v drops at the console when the window should be opening or closing (the other side still has 11/12v on same actions)
the ecu is ok i presume as all other windows are good but thinking maybe theres a short in the switch when pressed or something.i think ive overlooked the obvious somewhere..
the only thing i have seen is that the switch opens continuity when pressed even on the door (presumed to stop the window opening and closing at same time) and the 12v drops at the console when the window should be opening or closing (the other side still has 11/12v on same actions)
the ecu is ok i presume as all other windows are good but thinking maybe theres a short in the switch when pressed or something.i think ive overlooked the obvious somewhere..
#2
#3
Another fix is Window Lift ECU Repair Kit D1/95' RC (Part # AMR1282RK) - Land Rover door catches\window regulators from Atlantic British - link includes instructions and wiring diagram to jumper.
#4
My front windows worked but the rears did not. I took out the ECU and soldered a few cracked joints and now the rear windows work just fine. Here are a few pics to help out.
I soldered all the joints near the black connectors. When you pull the ECU out by those connectors it tends to break the joints.
There are two other joints (photo 3) that need to be re-soldered as well
If you don't look carefully you will miss the tiny cracks around the joints and think that they are fine like I did. This was the second time I had to pull the ECU out. Hopefully it will be the last time!
I soldered all the joints near the black connectors. When you pull the ECU out by those connectors it tends to break the joints.
There are two other joints (photo 3) that need to be re-soldered as well
If you don't look carefully you will miss the tiny cracks around the joints and think that they are fine like I did. This was the second time I had to pull the ECU out. Hopefully it will be the last time!
#5
Another fix is Window Lift ECU Repair Kit D1/95' RC (Part # AMR1282RK) - Land Rover door catches\window regulators from Atlantic British - link includes instructions and wiring diagram to jumper.
#6
#8
I had similar issues. My rear windows never worked, and then a few years later they magically worked intermittently.
I read the fix regarding the ECU and soldering (and I had never ever soldered before) at DiscoWeb, and my rear windows work perfectly now. All in all it took me 30 minutes to get the ECU out, do the soldering and plug it back in.
My ECU had the exact same spot shown in the pictures as to where the original soldering had gone bad.
Good luck
I read the fix regarding the ECU and soldering (and I had never ever soldered before) at DiscoWeb, and my rear windows work perfectly now. All in all it took me 30 minutes to get the ECU out, do the soldering and plug it back in.
My ECU had the exact same spot shown in the pictures as to where the original soldering had gone bad.
Good luck
Last edited by archaeology_student; 05-06-2013 at 10:12 AM.
#9
fixed -
I removed the window ECU as recommended to find one solder connection cracked - this accounted for the "hit and miss" of the rear windows working sometimes - - Resoldering the joint solved the issue - the hardest part was removing the ECU and re-installing it - be careful to not damage the unit - its mounted at a bad angle but it can be done - thanks to this video for help -
#10
will have a play tommorrow.had the wiring out today and i now have 12v to the window connector and door switch but the wiring diagram i have from a manual says the only supply to the ecu does both doors so to me one cable that splits to the switches must be the motor on that door??? i did have an issue with the back door lock not opening once so maybe i got me a ghost in the system lol.
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