Wife uses Disco for the first time. Wife comes back and advised the rear windows stopped working. It was easy to blame her for it....

Last night, I checked the easy ones first; fuse in the Satellite section, check; window counsel switches, swapped C338 and C340, both work.

Today, I need to check if power @ C340, at the switch. If no power, I will then proceed to C288 @ the ECU.

At this point, I might need to soldier or jump......

 

While the switch console is opened up I would check the grounds, like c3003. The switches ground the inputs from the ECU. If the ground is broken for the switches, nothing works, simlates the rear window isolation switch being pressed.

Just because she makes the payments does not mean she gets boulevard parade privledges.....

 

Haven't chked the ground yet @ C3003, but since they are all consolidated at that point, I am assuming they are good.....

Okay. C288 @ the ECU, WK (White/Pink), power wire to the rear windows,...no power output. I pulled the ECU apart and noticed noting loose, burnt, missing....nothing. The ECU has power out but not to WK. So, I am to assume that it is dead from that point. Need an ECU.....or I can just jump it.

 

Okay, pulled the ECU apart and the board and all soldiering points are perfect, no residue, burns, etc. I jumped the wires together PN & WK, like everyone that has done it.

Rear windows work! Will get an ECU in the near future to put it back to original....

 

Now the windows work regardless if key is in the off position....hummm....

I guess we can live with that for now.

 

..what do you mean, "PN & WK like all the others...." what's that secret?

 

Those are the wire color codes, which are referenced in the Electrical Manual of the RAVE.

 

My rears aren't working either. I had the AB window kit hack so I'm in the middle of doing that fix regardless if it's the problem or not. I'm having some troubles with the wire tap they supplied so I'm going to tie the wires together. I can't find that fix/check you reference...I'm sure I'm looking at the wrong section.

 

Check the Electrical Workshop Manual and find "windows", it will provide all the details. I would suggest printing the wire color code chart and be familiar with the components. From there, it is straight forward...

 

On mine, the circuit board in the window ecu had a couple of cracked solder joints. They were not real obvious at first, but applying slight force to the component leads show the solder joints were indeed cracked. There is an extensive history on-line regarding this as a high failure rate item on the DI. Reflowing all the solder joints resolved the problem and that was over three years ago.

There is also a thread about the Window Bypass Kit causing other problems because of where they tell you to tap into the existing wiring. So I would advise against the Bypass Kit. They are primarily charging you a fortune for a few inches of wire and their "Instructions".

Reflow the solder joints in the Window ECU and the problem will be gone.