1. Remove control arm (34mm nut) Have puller ready.
2. Remove three of the four gear box mounting bolts. Leave the bottom bolt closest to the front. Loosen, but leave attached.
3. Remove two hoses.
4. Remove steering shaft U-joint bolt (mark location before removal). Tilt the gear box and pry off the U-joint. Be sure not to damage the splines.
5. Remove the last bolt and remove the gear box from under vehicle.

REBUILD:

1. Remove (19mm) backlash sealed nut from top plate. Use ALLEN (6mm) to hold ALLEN bolt in place while you remove nut.
2. Remove four 15mm bolts from top plate.
3. Rotate Allen backlash bolt clockwise to remove top plate. You will see this draws the top plate up and off the gear box assembly.
4. Rotate main shaft by using the splines where the steering shaft attached. Use a rag over splines, do not damage splines. Rotate until the main shaft wheel (inside box) is fully clockwise.
5. From the control arm end of the shaft, use a piece of wood to knock the shaft through and out. Pull shaft out.
6. At the control arm end on the gear box. Remove retainer clip and seals. Lay them out in the order they came off. Label them with tape, or draw a picture.
7. Remove worm gear outer nut and end cap. I use a pipe wrench until it is loose enought to use a punch and hammer.
8. Remove worm gear bearing and race.
9. Remove the dust cover from the worm gear shaft.
10. Remove worm gear by gently tapping with wood until the assembly comes out.
11. Remove the large Flat head bolt, (on piston housing). This is the slack adjuster for the piston. Must remove the ALLEN bolt attached to the side and then unscrew the slack adjuster bolt. Be sure to mark location before removing.
12. Use a hammer and tap on the outer piston cap. This will seat the cap inward for easy removal of retainer spring.
13. Remove piston end cap retainer spring. Use a 1/8'' drill bit and drill a small hole in one end of the c-spring near the end (Do not drill into piston cap). Use a punch or small screwdriver to place in this hole and pry back pushing ring end towards center. Use flathead screwdriver to get under the c-spring and prt up until removed.
14.Use a pry bar inside the gear box to pry out the piston assembly. ( be careful not to scar anything).
15. Clean parts and replace seals.

INSTALLATION:

1. Insert worm gear assembly, do not over tighten end cap or nut. Use splines to turn to feel the resistance. Should turn smooth and easy.
2. Set piston in all the way. Push piston all the way in the bore.
3. Drop shaft down all turned to the right. (Clockwise) Set piston slack adjuster. Not tight/Not loose.
4. Clean out piston bore with brake cleaner
5. Turn the worm gear to make the piston extend to the end of the bore, closest to where the end cap will be.
6. Set in piston end cap. Gently tap/rotate into place.
7. Replace piston end cap c-spring.
8. re-seal the shafts and place the dust covers.
9. Install top plate using ALLEN bolt counterclockwise.
10. Install top plate 15mm bolts. Install gear box in vehicle.
11. Adjust backlash
12. Bleed system
13. Adjust backlash.
14. Good to go.

 

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Whats the time frame on rebuilding the box? I rebuilt a few on semi trucks but never anything this small before, they seem very similar just 1/4 the size of what im used to.

 

Make sure you have at least a day or two to tackle this one. Also you may want to have a hydraulic press available. Some control arms just do not want to come off. The difficult and time consuming part is taking the thing apart. There are tricks to the trade. I can finnish one in about three hours now. My first took all day. The piston cap is tricky, extra caution when putting it in place. This is where most leaks develop. The piston bore diameter is smaller than the piston cap seal. The seal gets damaged from pushing the cap in. Also the design of the piston cap allows the environment to get to the seal, which aids in it's destruction.

 

Got the kit and need to set aside two days for this project....still reading through all procedures on net and in the RAVE. If there was a video of the process, it would be alot easier to understand the steps.....hint....:^)

 

Video??? I don't have enough time for half the projects I'm in already. Call me whenever you get hung up or just need questions answered. Shawn 315-836-5999.

 

Would you rebuild them for others and if so what would you charge? My seems to be fine but it used to leak. It works great but knowing its age it is only a matter of time I am sure. I am just curious as will be others in the future I am sure given the cost of a rebuilt from any of the major suppliers.

 

Will do Shawn....thanks!

 

Yes If you send me your gear box, I can rebuild it for you. My charge is $50. You will need to send the box and a kit. The shipping is expensive. Ususally $50-$60 one way. I can talk you through replaceing any seal while the gear box still sits in the vehicle. The seals are easy to replace if you understand how the gear box works and is setup. There are a few little tricks.