Hi Folks,

I've read the various threads about the rear window ECU fix to restore working rear windows (take the ECU out from behind the glove box, re solder any bad joints, reinstall the ECU) and everyone says it's an easy fix.

However, I've just spent a couple of incredibly frustrating hours a) trying to get the *&$#@#$ board out without breaking off a component (unsuccessful - broken component is a small orange rectangular thing) and b) trying to get the board back in, into it's original position with the board edges in the correct slots in the housing. The dashboard bracket is directly in front of the board, so the only way I could get it out was to bend it towards the passenger door and getting it back in is proving impossible. Finding the dead joint and soldering was the easy bit...

Am I missing something obvious here? It's a left hand drive vehicle. Is everyone else talking about a RHD truck?? It doesn't seem so from the photos...

 

it is definitely a pain. I had to gently bend the board to get it back in

 

Mine slid right out and right back in, I just pulled it straight out toward the glove box and then lifted it up when it hit the dash.

 

if it doesnt work out....search a little, you can bypass the ecu ....with a simple piece of wire and a couple of connectors....I can dig out the diagram somewhere , but I believe Atlantic British has the "directions" on their website

 

I had to work mine quite a bit too and thought I was close to snapping it. Got it back in again after resoldering the corroded connection and all works great again now - but I didn't get the plastic thing snapped back where the plugs go back onto the board.

 

I'm working on this today too - what's the secret to getting the wiring connectors to release?? I didn't want to pull too hard, seems to be some sort of catch but I can't figure out how to release it.

On the plus side, I resurrected my central locking. Bought a $25 central locking kit on eBay, found the two lock wires to the alarm ECU and wired it in. Works great, if a bit short range!


Next up getting the cruise control ECU out. Figured I might as well get all of it done while I have it apart down there.


-Kevin


'95 Discovery
'01 Range Rover

 

BTW - what does the window ECU do anyway? Aside from cause the back windows to not work? I'm guessing it controls the auto-down function of the front windows.


I have the info from Atlantic British on bypassing it if I can't fix it, but I hate to bypass something that was put there for a reason. Hopefully a good one.


-Kevin

 

Thank you all for the replies. I ended up going the bypass route, using the AB instructions and buying the tap connections from a hardware store. I couldn't get the board back into the correct slots, so it's in there semi loose and hopefully will stay put. I guess I'm going to need to keep an eye out for another used board as the ceramic resistor that broke off seems to be impossible to buy in any less than packs of about 100

The rear windows are going go up and down (hurray!) but I'm now wondering if the ECU also has some function to do with the vehicle disabling... every time we go to start it we have to turn the steering wheel to lock it before the key will turn to unlock the steering wheel and start the car... maybe coincidence but...

The many joys of Rover ownership.

 

You've gotta yank on those connectors pretty hard to get them to come off if they've never been removed. I made sure to clean mine up and used some grease on them so they come off easier in the future.

 

yep, I remember mine were hard to get off the ecu too - back and forth, back and forth, etc...