Throw a pair of 4.11's in it and you may be able to peel out

 

quick google search brings up a couple different flavors... 229 and 230 i think, sounds like the 230 is a fair bit more aggressive than stock.

 

230 is for more top end, I offroad more than drive on street so I went with the 229. Probably why I have so much torque on take off. There is a good write up on Discoweb which is where I did some of my research. Talk to mark at D&D fab if you have questions, he is a gigantic help. I will be giving him more business!

 

so today i found out in my d1 i have a Buick 215 motor.

so after a long 2hours at the dmv, i decided to give my faviort place for mustang parts ( i have an full race sn95)a try, i walked in and in out with a smile, they have every thing i could want, was asking for a stoker ,but decided to go with a #68405 cam



intake 258* .430
exhaust 260* .445


as why i would do this i lifted my rover with Perry Mcniel , picked up some 33x10r16mt tires and added a winch,bumpers,and tons or extra tools and gear and well , and well i lost any pick up i had, up hills suck, and no its not my freshly rebuilt motor to blame..


so if i did swap this cam for my stock one what should i replace , was thanking about an solid copper head gasket, higher flow oil pump, new fuel pump,

will i have timing issues ?
they say it will get about 10hp and 15 torque

i am going to retry to pass smog first them toss it in after my new cats are installed..

and on passing smog in ca, will i have to open my block up every 2 years to smog it ,or would i still pass with this mild cam ,saying that if it was passing perfectly before the cam ??



and what other low cost power adders are there for our lr's ?


also i found this great info site on building our blocks, can some one verify if this is the same part for part as the Buick 215


oh btw crower in store pricing for the cam and lifters $200.... and add $100 for gaskets and $250 for a good oil pump, and 4-7 hours and some good beer and call it a day.. if every thing works out the first try

ill start posting pictures the day after i start the tear down.

 

Some Buick parts cross over to our engines - not all.

The gearing your D1 has stock is not designed around a 33" tire. You need to regear the axles (or the transfer case) to get the gearing to match the 33" tires.

A cam change will pale in comparison to a gear change to get back performance. You're spending the money in the wrong place.

 

i agree, i know i need gearing , but i am holding out cus i might swap out my rear end and front end for something a bit beefier to try to fit some 16.5rx37x12.5" Humvee tires/rims with on board air and bead locks , then ill need some re-gearing more then ever befoer.