replacing front brake rotors
#1
#2
You have to take off the hub I believe, here is how.
Download the RAVE manual to see everything, it's a great resource!
Rave
Remove
1. Loosen front wheel nuts, jack up vehicle and
lower onto axle stands and remove road wheel.
2. Release brake hose clips and remove brake
caliper. Secure to one side.
3. Lever off dust cap.
4. Remove circlip and drive shaft shim from
driveshaft.
5. Remove five bolts and withdraw driving member
and joint washer.
6. Bend back lock washer tabs.
7. Remove locknut and lock washer.
8. Remove hub adjusting nut.
9. Remove spacing washer.
10. Remove hub and brake disc assembly complete
with bearings.
Refit
11. Clean stub axle and drive shaft and fit hub
assembly to axle.
12. Fit spacing washer.
13. Fit hub adjusting nut. Tighten to 61 Nm.
14. Back off adjusting nut 90°. Tighten to 4 Nm.
This will give the required hub end float of
0,010mm
15. Fit a new lock washer.
16. Fit locknut. Tighten to 61 Nm.
17. Tab over lock washer to secure adjusting nut
and locknut.
18. Fit a new joint washer to driving member and fit
member to hub and secure with five bolts.
Tighten to 65 Nm.
19. Fit original drive shaft shim and secure with a
circlip.
Download the RAVE manual to see everything, it's a great resource!
Rave
Remove
1. Loosen front wheel nuts, jack up vehicle and
lower onto axle stands and remove road wheel.
2. Release brake hose clips and remove brake
caliper. Secure to one side.
3. Lever off dust cap.
4. Remove circlip and drive shaft shim from
driveshaft.
5. Remove five bolts and withdraw driving member
and joint washer.
6. Bend back lock washer tabs.
7. Remove locknut and lock washer.
8. Remove hub adjusting nut.
9. Remove spacing washer.
10. Remove hub and brake disc assembly complete
with bearings.
Refit
11. Clean stub axle and drive shaft and fit hub
assembly to axle.
12. Fit spacing washer.
13. Fit hub adjusting nut. Tighten to 61 Nm.
14. Back off adjusting nut 90°. Tighten to 4 Nm.
This will give the required hub end float of
0,010mm
15. Fit a new lock washer.
16. Fit locknut. Tighten to 61 Nm.
17. Tab over lock washer to secure adjusting nut
and locknut.
18. Fit a new joint washer to driving member and fit
member to hub and secure with five bolts.
Tighten to 65 Nm.
19. Fit original drive shaft shim and secure with a
circlip.
#3
Join Date: Apr 2006
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Pat those directions, when did you last clean/er-pack/or replace your bearings for both the front and rear wheel bearings? This has to be done every 30,000 miles and you should refill the swivel ball as well as change both diffs. gear oil.
When you have done your brakes, then do a 3 pint, DOT 4 full brake bleed.
When you have done your brakes, then do a 3 pint, DOT 4 full brake bleed.
#4
Yes the hub comes off with the rotor, but it's not as bad as it sounds.
The part that gives most folks trouble is seperating the hub from the rotor. I had to use a press on 2 of mine, some have had to cut the old rotor off the hub.
And per Mike's directions, I would have a couple wheel bearings on hand, or easy access to getting them. I ended up replacing mine when I did the rotors 'cause the bearing race's were pitted and blue(junk), but didn't know it until everything was apart.
The part that gives most folks trouble is seperating the hub from the rotor. I had to use a press on 2 of mine, some have had to cut the old rotor off the hub.
And per Mike's directions, I would have a couple wheel bearings on hand, or easy access to getting them. I ended up replacing mine when I did the rotors 'cause the bearing race's were pitted and blue(junk), but didn't know it until everything was apart.
#5
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Pittsburgh PA suburbs.
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#6
Use Timken set37 from Autozone for wheel bearings, there were others but I find these are cheapest. National at Oreillys.
Get yourself a 2 1/16" Socket for the lock nuts
Get yourself a 13mm 12 pt socket for the brake calipers.
Trust me, you will need these instead of taking things apart, find yourself stuck, then reassemble ALL OF IT and run to the store and get it.
Get yourself a 2 1/16" Socket for the lock nuts
Get yourself a 13mm 12 pt socket for the brake calipers.
Trust me, you will need these instead of taking things apart, find yourself stuck, then reassemble ALL OF IT and run to the store and get it.
#8
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Look on the Rovers North website. I would want a new lockwasher for each side ( you may be able to pound old one flat and reuse, but they are cheap enought to go ahead and replace).
Also each side gets a paper gasket as well. Look at their exploded views. They carry everything you need and it is always the right thing. You can buy bearings locally cheaper, but they have all the little items you may need. I also bought new mounting hardware like bolts because they are pretty cheap and chances are at least some of your existing ones may be bad enough not to re-use. I use new as much as possible on all mounting nuts and bolts just so it is easier next time around. I plan on keeping my Discovery for a long time to come, so I would rather go ahead and update as much of that old hardware as possible. Some people may say it is overkill, but I consider it money well spent.
Also each side gets a paper gasket as well. Look at their exploded views. They carry everything you need and it is always the right thing. You can buy bearings locally cheaper, but they have all the little items you may need. I also bought new mounting hardware like bolts because they are pretty cheap and chances are at least some of your existing ones may be bad enough not to re-use. I use new as much as possible on all mounting nuts and bolts just so it is easier next time around. I plan on keeping my Discovery for a long time to come, so I would rather go ahead and update as much of that old hardware as possible. Some people may say it is overkill, but I consider it money well spent.
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sparky
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04-13-2008 09:13 AM