So I'm thinking my running hot issue my be from a clogged radiator. I called a radiator shop near Austin, where I live, and they guy's ballpark quote for rodding out the rad was $350
I can get a new Nissens rad for close to that.
SOOOOoooo, my question is, would you guys just get the new one with the plastic sides or have the stock one rodded out?

While I have the rad out, I'm going to replace the H2O pump and fan clutch.

I've already flushed the coolant, replaced the hoses and T-Stat (180º), burped the system, added Water Wetter, checked the electric fans, checked for debris, check belt routing.
Tomorrow, I'll check the rad temps with a digital thermometer to see the difference between the top and botton of the rad.

She still seems to run a bit on the hot side and I think it may be the 25 year old rad.

 

I've used the Nissens before and my only advice is to remove one bolt at a time at the lower outlet, and apply some blue loctite to the threads. I've had those radiators seep in the winter and it was due to all the hot/cold cycles and the bolts came loose just enough to seep coolant on cold days.

 

I was quoted $450 to rehaul my old radiator, so I replaced the stock radiator with a Nissens 3 years ago due to major overheating issues. Prior to the change I replaced the water pump, thermostat, flushed the old radiator multiple times, and replaced the fan clutch, but it was still overheating. I've had zero issues with the Nissens radiator so far. With a 180 degree thermostat, I rarely see temps in the 190 range even in 100+ degree temps with the A/C on. Per the Torque app, I was seeing 179-182 degree temps at 80mph in low to mid 80's weather in the Denver area today with the A/C running.

I will note that the lower snorkle was loose on my Nissens upon delivery. I tightened the bolts during installation and have had no issues with leaking, even in sub-zero temps.

Maybe they ship with those bolts loosened to alleviate damage in shipping?

 

I got a new radiator for my '94 with 2 row aluminum and plastic ends about 4 years ago. There were 3 row options, if memory serves, for a bit more $. I like the new radiator for a couple technical reasons. 1. lighter weight, 2. aluminum core. Aluminum actually transfers heat a bit better than copper. Also, since we have aluminum blocks, the chemistry of the coolant can be simpler because copper and aluminum can react with each other. My original copper radiator had a very small tube leak near the top left side (hard to spot behind the cowl), so I know the metal was weak.

The original radiator on my '96 was leaking at a seam, but I was able to fix it by reflowing the solder. Nearly nine years ago and still going strong. I use Prestone long life coolant (yellow) in both trucks with a super-coolant chemical product. Point is, old radiators can cause problems.

As mentioned by others above, my lower plastic flange developed a tiny drip on the new radiator, but sealed up with about 1/6 turn or so on both bolts (while holding my breath).