rotoflex quality
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Pro Wrench
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 1,348
Likes: 3
From: North Carolina Coast
rotoflex quality
I replaced my rotoflex last year, started getting vibration again, looked yesterday and its totally shot. It's literally being held together by the strings. The one I used was an allmakes, is there a distinct difference in quality between the original and aftermarket rotoflexes?
Baja
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 5,584
Likes: 7
From: Pittsburgh PA suburbs.
Generally ALLMAKES is cheap off-shore. You gets what you pays for!
I bought a 98 D/S for 40 bucks, a 4 bolt flange, spacer, seal and one other piece that escapes my meory. My total was about 100 bucks total. No more Rotoflex and a nice firm ride with greasable u-joints.
Paul Grant has one on his EBAY Store.
I bought a 98 D/S for 40 bucks, a 4 bolt flange, spacer, seal and one other piece that escapes my meory. My total was about 100 bucks total. No more Rotoflex and a nice firm ride with greasable u-joints.
Paul Grant has one on his EBAY Store.
Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,033
Likes: 4
From: SF Bay Area
Generally ALLMAKES is cheap off-shore. You gets what you pays for!
I bought a 98 D/S for 40 bucks, a 4 bolt flange, spacer, seal and one other piece that escapes my meory. My total was about 100 bucks total. No more Rotoflex and a nice firm ride with greasable u-joints.
Paul Grant has one on his EBAY Store.
I bought a 98 D/S for 40 bucks, a 4 bolt flange, spacer, seal and one other piece that escapes my meory. My total was about 100 bucks total. No more Rotoflex and a nice firm ride with greasable u-joints.
Paul Grant has one on his EBAY Store.
Baja
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 5,584
Likes: 7
From: Pittsburgh PA suburbs.
You definitely can install the RotoFlex incorrectly. And I have heard that some are inferior construction.
I bought the driveshaft locally from a foreign car recycler that removes just the major items, warehouses them and crushes the rest. I bought the some pieces from AntiChrist and the flange came from Paul Grant I think it was. The most difficult issue was removing the 3 bolt flange from the rear diff (mine old one had one bolt hole ripped out).
I did not take pictures of it, my camera was dead at the time. But there is a fair amount of info that I can try to dig out for you. You need to use heat to release the lock-tite on the old one.
Paul was listing a complete set reasonably on his Ebay Site last time I looked. I like the driveshaft better without the Roto-Flex. And if you go used, it about the same price as a new stock RotoFlex.
I did mine by myself in the driveway and used jack stands to support the driveshaft while I aligned it and put it in. The driveshaft, I learned the hard way, can be extended or collapsed slightly to adjust the length to fit. If you compress it too much, it is a real bear to pull back out so proceed with care.
Tom had sent me info on how to remove the existing flange but i screwed it up and had to resort to the hacksaw method. That was the difficult part. Once you get the old one off, it is not too bad as long as you do not compress the length too much.
I bought the driveshaft locally from a foreign car recycler that removes just the major items, warehouses them and crushes the rest. I bought the some pieces from AntiChrist and the flange came from Paul Grant I think it was. The most difficult issue was removing the 3 bolt flange from the rear diff (mine old one had one bolt hole ripped out).
I did not take pictures of it, my camera was dead at the time. But there is a fair amount of info that I can try to dig out for you. You need to use heat to release the lock-tite on the old one.
Paul was listing a complete set reasonably on his Ebay Site last time I looked. I like the driveshaft better without the Roto-Flex. And if you go used, it about the same price as a new stock RotoFlex.
I did mine by myself in the driveway and used jack stands to support the driveshaft while I aligned it and put it in. The driveshaft, I learned the hard way, can be extended or collapsed slightly to adjust the length to fit. If you compress it too much, it is a real bear to pull back out so proceed with care.
Tom had sent me info on how to remove the existing flange but i screwed it up and had to resort to the hacksaw method. That was the difficult part. Once you get the old one off, it is not too bad as long as you do not compress the length too much.
TReK
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 2,073
Likes: 6
From: Ketchikan, Alaska, USA
I remember that thread. It was(no offence intended) entertaining.
Winching
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 624
Likes: 3
From: Sugar City, ID
Mine gave out abruptly downshifting in an attempt to maintain 80 MPH up a mountain pass. This was only a month after I bought the rig, and I didn't know much about Rovers back then. I don't think I've hit 80 MPH since!
I was about 120 miles from home and 100 miles from the nearest Rover dealer, so I limped at 50 MPH all the way to the dealer and bought the OEM part for $130 or so, they had it in stock. Fixed the rig over Christmas break in my parents' garage, thank goodness they had a kerosene heater.
I now inspect the roto-flex before every road trip, and after every off-road outing. I really recommend carrying a spare, though I may replace it with a U-joint someday.
I was about 120 miles from home and 100 miles from the nearest Rover dealer, so I limped at 50 MPH all the way to the dealer and bought the OEM part for $130 or so, they had it in stock. Fixed the rig over Christmas break in my parents' garage, thank goodness they had a kerosene heater.
I now inspect the roto-flex before every road trip, and after every off-road outing. I really recommend carrying a spare, though I may replace it with a U-joint someday.