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Rough start to over rev to dying

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  #11  
Old 07-29-2010 | 10:29 PM
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with the key turned to the on position do you get a check engine light? [you should]
 
  #12  
Old 07-30-2010 | 08:36 AM
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Bear with me as I am doing this from my iPhone, the typos will be rampant.

Yes I do get a cel with the key in the on position.

The new issue is loss or power and and engine stutter and then death. Normally associated with this is some clicking noises coming from under the passenger side dash.

What is under there in that mass chaos of wiring?
 
  #13  
Old 07-30-2010 | 02:06 PM
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so from what I gather, you reset the switch and it fired up? Unplug it and bypass it totally and try to start. It could be failing. Highly unlikely, but if messing with the switch changed something, you could be in the right direction.

The clicking sound is the relays turning on and off on the passenger side. Your fuel pump relay and a lot of others are under there. Main power controllers and such. If the switch is tripped fully, everything will turn off.
 
  #14  
Old 07-31-2010 | 06:59 PM
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Are you sure the clicking is coming from under the hood I looked at my 98 and the only relay is the fuel pump but I have had clicking coming from the inside behind glove compartment,there are a bunch,on the engine running rough and stalling is a classic sign of MAF sensor do a search on symptom's, but if you unplug it and start the engine and it run's fine and doesnt stall you have found the problem or check IAC I think they used the same model on some older JEEP's let us know.
 
  #15  
Old 08-01-2010 | 08:17 AM
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The clicking was coming from under the passenger side glove compartment when it died during a drive.

Ill try the maf sensor tomorrow, its easy to find unlike the iac/stepper motor, which is a tricky bastard to locate.
 
  #16  
Old 08-01-2010 | 09:25 AM
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In the second picture, you see a hose, the TPS and right below that is the IACV.
 
  #17  
Old 08-02-2010 | 08:05 AM
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Spike, which photos are we talking about, they may not have shown properly on my mac. As well i have found that its right on top for bosch engines, and buried on the gems engine, which is what im rolling on.
 
  #18  
Old 08-02-2010 | 08:41 AM
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Originally Posted by jordamf
Spike, which photos are we talking about, they may not have shown properly on my mac. As well i have found that its right on top for bosch engines, and buried on the gems engine, which is what im rolling on.
LOL!!! Sorry, my fault, I forgot to include the link.
I copied it but never pasted it.

Lets try this again.

https://landroverforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=19664
 
  #19  
Old 08-02-2010 | 12:12 PM
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pulled and cleaned the iacv, and still get the same problem, so it could still be bad. Should the pin iacv, aka stepper motor, be able to slide in and out with the iacv not plugged in to anything?

Also i tried starting it with out the maf plugged in, and it wouldn't start, plugged it in and it works like it has been.

Also in brands to replace these ive found them on line for $40, made by Standard ,oe replacement, which is less than the lucas at $200.
 
  #20  
Old 08-02-2010 | 12:52 PM
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You shouldn't have moved the shaft part as it will now require a reset by someone with a testbook. Have you looked at your TPS as the problem? Try removing the TPS and unplugging it. Put your IACV back in. Start it up and see if it runs. If it runs with a steady high idle your TPS is probably bad. If it is still doing the same thing then your problem is probably with your IACV or something else. I believe my IACV cost me around 50-60 bucks from NAPA. Let us know how it goes.
 


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