Geebus H Christmas its hot as hell here. 115 in my garage. Finished.

No pics, because......I was working solo, my hands were drenched with sweat under my nitril gloves.

Engine is in, no left over bolts.

The radiator fit perfectly! I mean perfectly. in 101 degree weather, 42%humidity she only raises to 201. Cools off immediately.

The bitch of the entire removal and install is:

Torque COnvertor bolts. (when removing solo, a friend to help turn crank would cut time in half or less.)

Bellhousing bolts suck ***. motor mounts in out it doesnt matter. they are tough.

Bellhousing inspection cover......same as above. time consuming.


The next complaint gripe etc. WHich bolts are metric vs standard, hose fittings, nuts bolts OMG! Guessing which is which is mind numbing and time consuming.

MY belts and hoses were new.

She fired first turn.

She revs much better than before and the starter sounds much better.

 

Yep, I was able to manage the torque converter from underneath. I'm pretty sure just installing those bolts to me at least... forever.
Now have a beer.
Did you swap in a fresh 4.0? Remove your engine for a rebuild? What's the story?

 

Flex plate reluctor ring decided to come loose. Wiped out CPS.
It has a new motor with about 8000 miles. Installed by PO he did mention that the flex plate was bent, bent flex plate means the reluctor ring wouldn't stay on.
Runs great now.

 

If I cant get my radiator re-cored for $250 or less I'm buying on of these.

 

I was quoted 425 plus tax.

 

You running a 180 stat in Ruby? And if you can, a small indy shop that does ag and heavy equipment rads can work wonders on that stock radiator (they flushed and rodded mine out, plus soldered up a couple of spots for $70).

 

You didn't see the new rad he got for 232 bucks off ebay Savannah? I am changing my stat today and if that doesn't do the trick I am on the same page with Spike, If I cannot get mine serviced for that I will buy one too. Hey Discolife can you post a link to that Rad for everyone again?

 

Before you jump on replacing the good OE D1 radiators with a plastic tank one, read this thread:
Radiator issues
Wouldn't be an issue with a D1 radiator. A bit of solder and you're good to go.

 

i dont know what the access looks like on an auto D1, but if theres room to snag the flywheel teeth, this is the tool thatll let you do that on your own



ive got one ive used on a couple projects, and it makes it a breeze to check flexpate runout, undo the converter bolts, etc

 

My opinion is the new radiator will do as good a job as the old one. It is built very well and with a recore cost of 425.00 not worth it. All new rads are made the same way and I dont see any issues with those.