Pinky- I think you have a good challenge in front of you but I'm totally rooting for you! I only thought I had rust. And I do- just not like that. Good luck and keep us posted.

Slang- Thank's for the vid! Really inspirational.

Danny- those sheetmetal links to Ebay- sweet. I need to root around in there. Is there a section that handles the hole when you open the rear pass door, that hole in the corner? Thank you.

PTSchram- Nice work!- insert giant grin smiley face here.

 

Definitely, if you are going to do it, you want a thorough job the first time. No use leaving marginal, already corroded metal in place or you will be right back in there before long.

Where are you located?

If it seems to be more than you can deal with initially, you can always get either some plate or even some thick plywood and cover the entire area temporarily while you do figure out how to proceed.

 

The video Slang posted is definitely the best way to replace the entire rear floor pan. He had posted a EBAY link that had those floor pans but the guy was in England. I do not know how available the correct pieces are here in the States.

 

Sorry, I missed this.

Automated slip-form submerged arc welding, friction stir welding, explosion welding, and robotic welding would be considered "non-manual" to use your term. None of them would really be useful, affordable, or feasible for your situation. Some of them would be really fun though.

 

Yeah, If I was going for a full-on showroom restoration, that would be the way to go. I think thats a pricey bit of overkill for my needs though.

When I cut rust pieces out should I use an angle grinder with a cutting disc, or sheetmetal scissors?

Or use whichever seems best suited for a particular piece?

 

Yes. Or a plasma cutter. If using tin snips, be sure you have a good quality set with both left (green handle) and right (red handle) snips. That way you can always leave a clean edge on the side you want to keep. I'm guessing there will be some angle-grinder action too.

 

....all cut off and grinding wheels on your angle grinder. some wire brush bits and that shredded rubber stripper too for the drill.

 

Don't you own a hammer?

As far as the opinion on the seat, it should be fine as long as no one sits in it and you do not drive it.

Seriously, if you were in it and heaven forbid, you hit something, the force of impact could rip that seat totally loose!

THIS IS A GOOD EXAMPLE OF WHY YOU SHOULD LOOK CLOSELY BEFORE BUYING ONE OF THESE BEFORE BUYING IT, NOT A SURPRISE FIND AFTER THE PURCHASE.

How much did you pay for this thing? Is it your daily driver?

 

yeah, but its in a tight spot

Is it that dangerous/weak with only 1 compromised mount?

I think Ive given this info earlier in the thread, but...

- Not the DD.
- $1100. Which was an ok deal, had the replacement fuel pump that the seller gave me been AEL. As it is, it wasnt the best deal, but wasnt the worst either.

 

I should also add that I have:

- replaced the fuel pump and filter
- checked oil and fuel pressure
- changed the oil in the engine, diff, and x-fer case
- greased the driveshafts
- put in a suspension lift
- replaced a brake line and bled the brakes
- disassembled the gear selector to get my shift button unstuck
- taken most of the interior out and prepped the rusted areas

Given that this is only the second automobile I have ever worked on in my life, the experience and confidence Ive gained in the 3 months of ownership have been invaluable.

Assuming I dont get killed from the drivers seat falling off, I really cant complain.