You can get a decent flux core wire feed welder at pepboys for $229. I have one and the quality is far better than the HF units. No need to mess with tanks, and the weld quality is very good as long as you prep the metal well and are patient.

 

Don't get discouraged, it is a very worthwhile skill, one that I recommend to anyone who plans to wrench or wheel, or both. So pretty much every Land Rover owner.

A temp fix is fine, as long as you understand that it is just that - a temp fix. All too often the temporary fix becomes permanent, especially when the problem is out of sight, out of mind.

When you do learn, just devote a couple hours a day to practicing on scrap metal, and do your research. I recommend the textbook Modern Welding - ISBN 1-56637-330-1. Read and study all the relevant sections, and maybe even some of the metallurgy sections as well. Then watch Youtube videos, especially the ones produced by Miller and other welding companies. Then apply all that in your practice. You'll know you're good enough when the welds look good, and you can put your welded piece in a vise and beat on it with a sledge hammer in any direction without breaking the weld.

Oh and FYI, I don't recommend self-shielded flux core welders, especially the cheap machines. You'll be less frustrated learning MIG or even stick (arc). I would rather stick weld an entire vehicle than try to get consistent results from SS flux core. The main problem, which is nearly inevitable, is excessive spatter. Plus as Higgs mentioned, you have to be OCD about prep. Just my $.02.

I guess that just means I'm not patient, LOL.

 

I don't think I have noticed anyone mention the 120v Eastwood welder. I hav'nt welded in years but was looking into it for this Rover of mine. From what I understand feed and power are infinately adjustable- which is great for what we need on these old rigs and for welding noobs alike. There is a Youtube vid if you are interested.

Thanks for the sheetmetal links a few pages back! I want a new floor!

Good luck

I was also thinking about glue. Body adhesive such as Lord fusor. I have the rust on the sides of my bulkhead as mentioned earlier in the post. I was thinking that it would be a great repair for that particular area. If you can get back to clean solid metal, it might be fine for your floor. When I saw the Eastwood vid a couple months ago- there was a Lord fusor vid several spots down.

 

I just picked up this unit Hobart Welders - Products - Wire Feed Welders - Handler 210MVP

It's the ****!!!!! Honestly the only time I would recommend flux is somewhere where people will be looking at your fancy welds. So floor boards, wheel wells etc I wouldnt worry about. Even then you can use a wire wheel and knock off all the left over slag splatter and make it look decent. Only other two potential problems is the area has to be clean as hell which in a rusty truck takes a lot of grinding. and blow thru for the beginner. This is why the gas is recommended.

I picked the unit I did because I plan on doing suspension pices, bumpers, sliders pretty much everything and wanted something that can do a pretty damn thick piece of metal. It works on both 115 and 230v which comes in handy and I'll probably never out grow it.

 

From what I've read, Hobart and Eastwood are both capable welders. Especially the Hobarts.

 

Hobart or Miller either one are solid brand names in welders. They are the core of the industry and both of them offer a full range of excellent welding machines.

Even check auctions like farms, machine shops or other industrial type auctions, estate sales. Sometimes you can get some excellent equipment at a great price.

I would rather have a used Miller or Hobart than any HF, PepBoys or off-brands.

Not criticizing anyone else's choice just stating my preferences.

 

There are also some adhesives that have come out specifically for body work that are hard to beat. That said, if you apply them over rust, you are making a poor decision. Once there, you need to remove as much as possible by whatever means available.

In the Navy, we used air powered rotary high speed drills with 3M Flap brushes, eat right thru paint and metal. Mothers has come out with some abrasiive lambswool for removing severe oxidation.

 

For the temp fix this is what I was thinking:

1. Cut out the really weakened stuff, and wire-sand/grind the rest as best I can
2. Cut the sheet metal for hole shape and prep for rivets
3. Attach cutout to hole with adhesive and put in rivets

sound ok?

 

If it's meant to be temp, don't do anything that cant easily be undone. Some of those adhesives are very permanent. $.o2

 

That's what I was thinking. In some cases the applicator gun is a bit specific and pricey. Has anyone used these?

I was amazed at the selection of abrassive wheels at my local home box store over the weekend. Seemed like you could take on a rusty Rover right there.