If that is the case, and with some silicone for extra sealing, could this perhaps be a decent permanent fix? Other than the seat mount, its not really a high stress area.

 

Is there one you would recomend or have used? I see 3M, Fusor- is there another?

 

Looks like Eastwood makes one too. No Weld Panel Repair Kit - Auto Body Panel Replacement Without Welding

Its a little pricey, but they sell the glue separately in a canister that fits in a caulk gun. No Weld Panel Adhesive Replacement

 

NO NO NO!

PATCHING JUST INDIVIDUAL HOLES IS A BAD WAY TO GO. Your entire floorboard is pretty bad from what your pics showed. Look at the thread that SLANGINSANJUAN posted regarding his floor replacement recently.

You need to cut panels that will overlay your entire floorpan.

Cut out back to solid material. Put larger panel over what is left. Do that for each area that is rusted thru.

Your patch the holes only is not advisable in my experiences.

 

Ah ok. Thats actually simpler than having to shape for a hole.

The rest is pretty much the idea though?

 

have you seen this video:

How to repair Land Rover Discovery floor - YouTube

i just saw it a couple days ago but it would have been helpful in planning mine. i decided on riveting after looking into learn to weld/have welded. I also considered panel adhesive and would do that also.

basically replacing and/or protecting fuel tank and lines and hoses and elecrical...no welding this time. they do it in the video pretty good tho.

in my opinion you should do yours just like mine if you want to keep it...grind/treat/rust paint/repair/rivet/caul/paint. all totally manageable tasks that you can get to a good finish. don't overthink it which it really looks like you are. Decide if you want to go industrial or hack. I'm trying to get mine industrial (slowly) but I do a lot of hacks of all kinds on other projects. if it's a hack, it's rough cuts and cheap parts to keep it moving. as much DYI as you can manage. if you don't do the rust right tho and you put money into the rest, you'll be selling your good parts from the rusted out body.

 

I don't like that long eyeball cut he made and i think the gap to the next sheet is too long with just air in between. Right?

However, you can do it this way, maybe a little cleaner and use fiberglass or paintable marine caulk and a good enamel to fill in all those spaces and make a solid floor.

 

i just went back and looked at the pictures....it's pretty bad. not incurable but if you're gonna go through with it either weld (somewhere other than your residential garage - who you kidding?) or rivet. if you're going to weld prepare to not have the truck available for weeks and you spending a lot of time on it. and when you get past this there are a million other projects that are going to require time and money.

pick a level, 1-5 and do everything on your truck the same level. 5 is a lot of time and money (new enhanced parts, strong finish) with the best possible result and enjoyable vehicle. 1 is a project from hell that eats all your money and never runs right and then ends up with a terminal problem. go for something in between.

Post a better pic of your back floor.

 

He's going to need to do like 3 different techniques with a bunch of patches but solid pieces where he can.

hey pinkyrasta, do a plan...figure out the pieces you need, its probably the same for weld, rivet or glue:

 

Good idea. Baby steps...

Ill try to do some cutting tonight and see how much good metal I actually have to work with.