Yes, but I did it carefully and I primed both sides of the metal and then used the KBS which I really like.

I also fiberglassed the holes so dirt/salt/water didn't enter from below. I also, put a fiberglass/foil insulation (that MG hates) in between the floor and the sheet as I wasn't going to use carpet anymore and thought it might be a good idea for heat and noise....which it was.

Later I'm going to get under the truck and lizardskin or bedline it so I have more underneath protection. At 3K miles a year (and a few tricks so my wife doesn't drive it) I hope to have this thing a long time.

 

Lizard skin rocks. I did the interior and some of the underside of the truck in the pics with Lizardskin ceramic.

Be sure to get their applicator, it makes it easier to apply. I can't imagine trying without.

 

with the plethora of used D1's that pop up with blown engines and other drive train maladies for cheap i'd say it would be easier to swap over your good drivetrain to a new truck considering the amount of time it would take to repair the rust damage. If you had some sort of emotional attachment to the car or it was rare then i'd say knock your self out on the rust repair but in the time vs money scale swapping for a good body would be easier..

 

probably right. i agree. attachment and availability was my problem.

 

One problem is, I dont have the money to get a donor vehicle.

The other, more serious issue, is wifely tolerance for 2 vehicles in states of disrepair clogging up the garage and driveway for an indeterminate period of time. She hasnt been able to park her beloved Audi in the garage for over a month now, and is not pleased.

Ill see what the Maaco guy, and maybe an independent body shop, says. If they dont want to tackle it, Ill Macguyver something.

What type of rivets would one use to attach sheet metal to a floor?

 

So rivets...

Would these do?

3/16" Air Hydraulic Riveter


100 Piece 3/16" Aluminum Blind Rivet Set

 

that's one fancy riveter. mine was like ten bucks from HD.

i used some aluminum but I prefer stainless steel. availability the issue again for me.

can't win with the wife ya know.

 

What is an air hydraulic riveter? Is it activated by air, but powered by hydraulic, or the other way around? Or did they not know what they were talking about and meant pneumatic riveter?

 

Land Rover Discovery Boot Floor Repair Panel | eBay

 

Chris-Bob: That was the literal translation from native Chinese to English.
I bought a die grinder from HF, plugged it into the air hose, pulled the trigger and in less than ten seconds it went into self-dstruct and flew apart. No more air tools from them for me.

PinkyToe probably meant he would cut out existing good metal from his floor to do a rework like you did Slang. It would be best to cut out as much of the existing decay before overlapping with new plate. The bigger pieces of plate you use like Slang did, the better your result will be as far as strength. I would do that rather than put in lots of small patches.

Your biggest problem will be things like wheel arches and curved pieces unless you get creative.

Even swapping all the running gear from one DI to a donor is no simple task, nor it is that cheap. Your donor won't be perfect either.

The biggest thing for a new buyer is look closer BEFORE you buy. Factor in stuff like this into your decision and price as well.

Either way, you got a lot to accomplish and that is even harder if it is a daily driver and not a "spare" car.

I know where there is a solid DII if anybody is looking. I prefer DI's myself, but the good ones are getting fewer and fewer.

If you bought it cheap enough, don't even worry with stuff like that, drive it for as long as possible doing as little as possible and be looking for a better one.

Either way, take time and enjoy it.