LOL. I don't hate it, it's a great idea for heat, and a moderately good idea for noise. It's just not one of the best ideas for noise. Your noise attenuation probably comes from the fact that it decouples the 1/8" or thicker steel you used, which has enough mass on its own for proper blocking. Heck I'd use the stuff in my Disco, just not in a competition-level stereo system.

 

One main thing Slang pointed out that many of you won't know until you lift your carpets and pads out of the way is all the little opening that LR failed to seal in the bottom of the vehicles that allows entry of water, dirt, road salt and all those other things that accelerate corrosion.

I was amazed at how many existed in mine. If you have not yet peeked under your carpets, you should.

 

i bet the brits have a hell of a time getting chevy parts.

those are some cool kits tho. i looked into a new floor. shipping issue again.

just teasin mg.

 

Shipping is always the bugger when ordering parts from overseas.
Parts are cheaper, but shipping costs more than the parts.

 

Yeah. Its a good find though!

 

So it turns out HF does have a cheap welding option:

70 Amp Arc Welder

However, the welder guy that wouldnt touch it said that you cant weld to anything on the left/door side of the floor because you cant weld onto corroded metal. See blurry pic:



Anyone here with weld experience know if is this the case?

 

Good to know on both points. I almost bought one of their air cutting tools today, but now Ill just see how the electric angle grinder does. I can see high RPM stuff being sketchy. Something like the rivet gun though is just a single burst mechanism. The reviews for it were decent, and its not like it'll see shop level use.


No, definitely not the DD. I was getting antsy after selling my 98 volvo T5, which was my first project car. I bought the rover sight unseen, needing a fuel pump, for $1100 cause the guy delivered it and said he had the pump. He had the pump, but it was non-AEL. So that sucked.

Given that $400 hit, I think i paid a bit too much. However after changing the fluids and giving it a first drive, given the horror stories Ive read here, I gotta say it runs pretty good!


plan to

 

To do anything worth doing, especially since it is a project, go ahead and pull the seats out so you can cut out all the bad metal and see what you got. You cannot fix it without removing that. Where did this Rover Come From?

Know what Caveat Emptor means? or "Pig in a Poke"?

 

Yeah I know. I had to put the drivers seat back in so I could drive it to the bodyshop.

 

If you're going to stick weld all that, you're a better man than i, Gunga Din. If you do stick weld it, I recommend 6013 electrodes. Farmers use them all the time because they will weld to rust, as well as over grease and through dirt. It's a very aggressive, penetrating rod. It took me two to three months to learn how to stick weld competently, and about two to three weeks to learn MIG. I love stick welding - it's therapeutic - sometimes it's necessary, but it is a slow process that requires skill and patience. Unless you are looking for an extremely academic experience, you may want to get a MIG setup.

Well, if you leave corrosion then that defeats the purpose of eliminating it. You'll have your best weld beads, best tie-in and strength, when you correctly prepare the joint, which includes removing any corrosion or scale. If you find after grinding that there is no steel with integrity, you'll want to remove it all the way out the the edge. As long as you've got steel at the edge that's good, you could make a flange there and affix the new material to that.