Rust. Bad. Thoughts? (Warning, not for the squeamish)
#41
LOL. I don't hate it, it's a great idea for heat, and a moderately good idea for noise. It's just not one of the best ideas for noise. Your noise attenuation probably comes from the fact that it decouples the 1/8" or thicker steel you used, which has enough mass on its own for proper blocking. Heck I'd use the stuff in my Disco, just not in a competition-level stereo system.
#42
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Pittsburgh PA suburbs.
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One main thing Slang pointed out that many of you won't know until you lift your carpets and pads out of the way is all the little opening that LR failed to seal in the bottom of the vehicles that allows entry of water, dirt, road salt and all those other things that accelerate corrosion.
I was amazed at how many existed in mine. If you have not yet peeked under your carpets, you should.
I was amazed at how many existed in mine. If you have not yet peeked under your carpets, you should.
#43
those are some cool kits tho. i looked into a new floor. shipping issue again.
just teasin mg.
#45
#46
So it turns out HF does have a cheap welding option:
70 Amp Arc Welder
However, the welder guy that wouldnt touch it said that you cant weld to anything on the left/door side of the floor because you cant weld onto corroded metal. See blurry pic:
Anyone here with weld experience know if is this the case?
70 Amp Arc Welder
However, the welder guy that wouldnt touch it said that you cant weld to anything on the left/door side of the floor because you cant weld onto corroded metal. See blurry pic:
Anyone here with weld experience know if is this the case?
#47
I bought a die grinder from HF, plugged it into the air hose, pulled the trigger and in less than ten seconds it went into self-dstruct and flew apart. No more air tools from them for me.
It would be best to cut out as much of the existing decay before overlapping with new plate. The bigger pieces of plate you use like Slang did, the better your result will be as far as strength. I would do that rather than put in lots of small patches.
It would be best to cut out as much of the existing decay before overlapping with new plate. The bigger pieces of plate you use like Slang did, the better your result will be as far as strength. I would do that rather than put in lots of small patches.
Either way, you got a lot to accomplish and that is even harder if it is a daily driver and not a "spare" car.
If you bought it cheap enough, don't even worry with stuff like that, drive it for as long as possible doing as little as possible and be looking for a better one.
If you bought it cheap enough, don't even worry with stuff like that, drive it for as long as possible doing as little as possible and be looking for a better one.
Given that $400 hit, I think i paid a bit too much. However after changing the fluids and giving it a first drive, given the horror stories Ive read here, I gotta say it runs pretty good!
Either way, take time and enjoy it.
#48
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Pittsburgh PA suburbs.
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So it turns out HF does have a cheap welding option:
70 Amp Arc Welder
However, the welder guy that wouldnt touch it said that you cant weld to anything on the left/door side of the floor because you cant weld onto corroded metal. See blurry pic:
Anyone here with weld experience know if is this the case?
70 Amp Arc Welder
However, the welder guy that wouldnt touch it said that you cant weld to anything on the left/door side of the floor because you cant weld onto corroded metal. See blurry pic:
Anyone here with weld experience know if is this the case?
Know what Caveat Emptor means? or "Pig in a Poke"?
#50
Well, if you leave corrosion then that defeats the purpose of eliminating it. You'll have your best weld beads, best tie-in and strength, when you correctly prepare the joint, which includes removing any corrosion or scale. If you find after grinding that there is no steel with integrity, you'll want to remove it all the way out the the edge. As long as you've got steel at the edge that's good, you could make a flange there and affix the new material to that.