No, that us not correct, the fuel pump does not have a vent to drain the tank, if you need to drain the tank you remove the fuel pump, pump out the fuel and then drop the tank.
That vent you saw is to vent the gas tank if it builds up to much pressure, there is supposed to be a line that runs to the engine bay and a charcoal canister to catch all of the gas vapor.

I would have to say your fuel pressure regulator is bad.

 

Ok, the vent seemed weird to me, I called and inquired, that's what was passed onto me. I will be ordering a new cap and rotor on Monday. I will look into fuel pressure regulator.

 

Check the six inch long vac line at rear of engine that feeds the FPR, might have cracks in it, etc.

 

Is thereby certain brand of cap and rotor I should be using or as long as they are same brand work, I am unable to track down a cap and rotor locally?

 

The Lucas (OE) work best. That is the brand that is recommended the most on the forums. The other brands don't seem to work as long or as well. That's four years worth of Rover forums being passed on.

 

I have changed my fuel pump, fuel filter, spark plugs ( E3's ) and my plug wires to Magnecor 8mm all on recommendations form this forum. However, I am not turning over. I have ordered a new Lucas cap and rotor from British Pacific this morning that should arrive by Wednesday.. If this isn't the fix, any ideas on where I should be looking. I dont have any codes and there aren't any lights lit up on the dash. I have also checked my fuses that are fuel related and those are good as well. This is becoming mildly frustrating, I miss driving her, car pooling in a ford focus sucks!

 

Whoa.... with respect to not turning over - up to this point not starting up. Now the starter is not engaging and making engine parts rotate when key is turned? The serpantine belt does move when you engage starter? Or just a few clicks and no noise?

Do you have spark if a plug wire is removed, and placed on an old plug, and left sitting on the mainfold when cranking?

Do you have fuel pressure at the test valve spot when key is first turned on, pump should run maybe 2 seconds.

Inertia switch on firewall needs to be reset (button on top) and good for pump to run. If you have an amp meter, you can measure current there, my pump draws about 5 amps when running. Or volts to see that power is headed toward the pump. F3 under dash and F6 under hood. If no power check fuses with meter, sometimes a hairline crack.

 

Belt turns, starter engaged. I have fuel at the rail. Will try the inertia switch. Hopefully Wednesday night, all is restored and she cranks up with a new cap and rotor.

 

Tow it to a mechanic.......

 

She literally started right up tonight, purred like a cat... I still plan on changing cap and rotor on Wednesday when they come in. I have no idea what's happened, I guess the upcoming days will tell.